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Fotoguzzi
| | Posted on Monday, April 07, 2014 - 09:56 pm: | 
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how do you get that blanket? I tried making contact and never heard back. |
Rayycc1
| | Posted on Monday, April 07, 2014 - 10:12 pm: |
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you can buy the material he uses from Summit racing...I tried getting a hold of him also ...no go...so i'm just going to buy some material and make it myself |
Griffmeister
| | Posted on Monday, April 07, 2014 - 11:00 pm: |
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Unfortunately that's a given. Odie has a lot on his plate and waiting for a response can involve a lot of time and patience. Some have succeeded though.  |
Rayycc1
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2014 - 12:21 pm: |
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I'm not down on him for it....I am always busy too.....just don't want to cook my leg while waiting LoL |
Tootal
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2014 - 02:42 pm: |
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Kennywiz, you said it feels like it's going to "wash out" on you. I always felt like that too, like you were expecting a face plant!! That's just the bike. Once use to it you just trust it. I was switching back and forth between the Uly and a Cagiva Gran Canyon. Until I got rid of the Cagiva I always felt weird in the corners but once I got use to the Uly and learned to trust the front end, wow can it scoot in the twisties! |
Kennywiz
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2014 - 07:20 pm: |
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I've faced that fact that I just have to get used to it..there's so much value in this bike it would easily cost me twice what I paid to replicate it.
First ride with the EBR ECM. For these two reasons alone, it was worth it. The fan runs a lot now! The only time I could hear it run before is when the bike was stopped, engine off. AND
Maybe it's the fuel mapping or timing or whatever but the bars shake about 50% less than before at idle. It's not a figment of my imagination. I can actually keep my hands on and the windshield doesn't look like it's about to fall off.
As for power, I noticed a little more right from first throttle input and notably more toward the top. I did not feel any change in the mid delivery. I'm hoping it evens out over the next tank of fuel.
Thanks all!
(Message edited by Kennywiz on April 08, 2014) |
Kennywiz
| | Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2014 - 10:32 am: |
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Is there an ECM relocation kit to purchase somewhere. I googled it and found images where people have made brackets. |
Tootal
| | Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2014 - 12:29 pm: |
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No, there's no kit. Folks have just been doing their own thing.
What's your inseam? Mine's 37" and I'm running a tall seat and 2" drop pegs from precision engineering.(Stock is 1" drop)
http://www.preeng.com/xcart/Billet-Buell-Ulysses-P assenger-Footpegs-2-Drop.html
Might help out if you're feeling a little cramped! |
Kennywiz
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2014 - 09:49 am: |
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OK... So I got this bike from the PO with 4800 miles. I put the OEM exhaust back on, had a hell of a time with EBR ECMs, traced/resolved a couple common issues, and put about 1500 miles on. Still not pleased with the "light" front end feel when entering corners and absolutely not a fan of the low RPM vibration and 5 speed trans. I STILL keep searching for a 6th up shift on the freeway. I find the trans engagement to be smooth, but long with no "positive" "snick or click". The front end issues don't stop with the turn in feel. Speeds over 95 on the highway are not confidence inspiring. The front end is VERY busy in the wind and I get WAY too much feedback in the bars. I regularly fear a tank slapper and have to keep it under 90. The seating position is SUPER comfortable and this is the first bike I've owned in a very long time that I can ride for 120+ miles straight with little to no fatigue. My right hand and donkey normally goes numb after 50 miles but so far never on the Uly.
So... What am I gonna do with the bike. Well, I purchased it as a daily commuter and weekend throw about that I shouldn't have to work on due to the low mileage. So far, I've been wrenching on or tracing an issue every week since I got it. Not terribly pleased about that but I should have everything functionally ironed out. I like aspects of the bike and there's really nothing else in my price range that would handle better, with a better power-train and maintain comfort. So, I'm keeping it and trowing some more money at it!!!!!!!!
To resolve the front end feel at high speeds, I ordered the GPR damper. I found on the boards that a setup for a Lightning works with a ULY. I shall see. I also ordered a set of Pilot Road 4 tires. I don't intend any off road use and was happy with earlier iteration of this tire on other bikes I've owned. Since I'm doing tires, I got the black race rear bearings too. I got the Tuono mirrors but still only see everything except what's behind me. Re wired the headlights and will install the brighter bulbs found in a Uly FAQ or farkle post.
I will update after I put some miles on with the new equipment. Thanks for the help and suggestions! |
Tootal
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2014 - 11:58 am: |
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Try setting up your suspension according to the book. This is not perfect but close and a good starting place. It sounds like your rear preload might be too high which shortens the fork angle which will decrease stability at speed. Try setting to spec. and if it's still twitchy then lower the pre load about 4 clicks and see if it improves. Raising the front preload will do the same but again I would start with factory specs and then go from there. |
Kennywiz
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2014 - 12:59 pm: |
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Thanks for the suggestions, however, I've already been over this and have it setup as good as it's going to get. I worked with a friend who does suspensions for a living and used to set up all my track bikes. |
Raven41
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2014 - 02:05 pm: |
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Had the same issues with the front end as Kennywiz has described. I had my bike set up as per manual for my weight, however still found it to be twitchy, especially in cross winds. I lowered the rear preload as Tootal has suggested and found it made a big difference to high speed stability.
The trade of with this is, I found, was a reduction in the ride comfort at lower speed, so for commuting duties I simply wind the preload out by about 5 clicks. It is definitely worth experimenting with it until you get it right... |
Uly_man
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2014 - 03:33 pm: |
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"Thanks for the suggestions, however, I've already been over this and have it setup as good as it's going to get. I worked with a friend who does suspensions for a living and used to set up all my track bikes". Super cool. No further advice required then? |
Kennywiz
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2014 - 04:00 pm: |
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I truly appreciate the advice. If you have some more, I certainly would appreciate that as well.
I went through multiple suspension setup variations and ended up with a slightly softer rear preload and a slightly decreased front rebound. (over manual recommendations) Cant lower it too much as it would affect cornering. Give and take.
The high speed issues are common and I've had to employ a damper on other bikes. Seems logical on this bike as well. Hardly any front aerodynamics and a wide bar set loose for easy low speed maneuvering make for dicey high speeds. Again anything under 95mph is very good.
I'm not trying to bash our beloved Ulys. Merely relaying my impressions of a bike and brand that were completely foreign to me. I like it, but it's just not a direct fit. I can't expect a bike designed to do a little bit of everything to do it perfectly. Because of it's jack of all trades nature, I hold it up against more modern bikes and bikes not in it's price segment. Seriously it would cost me at least double to get a pre owned, similar year, more refined (engine/trans), better handling bike. I'd probably have to tinker with that one too!  |
Uly_man
| | Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2014 - 04:08 pm: |
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Ok Ken let us try this. Would you be happy, with your Uly, if you could ride it over VERY rough Tarmac roads at speed, wet or dry, without issue. Run it to 120 mph and the same. Have VERY predictable "point and shoot" handling with near prefect road feed back and not at ANYTIME have the sense of getting a "tank slapper". And good control of front dive under braking?
Oh and go round corners like very few road bikes can do.
(Message edited by uly_man on May 08, 2014) |
Argentcorvid
| | Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2014 - 04:22 pm: |
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I have mine set up per "greater rider comfort" settings in the manual (next page after the chart?) and it is just about perfect, even at extra-legal speeds. |
Tootal
| | Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2014 - 06:13 pm: |
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Try taking the hand guards off. I've read that they can cause the shake at high speed. I don't run that fast very often but it might help the issue. Very easy to try anyway! |
Etennuly
| | Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2014 - 08:23 pm: |
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I am working on an '08 XT right now that needs the steering head bearings re-torqued, both under inflated tires brought up to pressure, and the rear spring is set up too tight. If I let go of the bars at 50 mph + the bars will wobble like a rooster's nuts(you know, out of control chasing and forcing itself on a chicken).
We have also seen over the years that certain bulky riding jackets can cause strange high speed wobbles.
With all of the stock stuff(windscreen, hand guards, fenders, all three bags, etc.) I have run my '06 triple digits for many miles on interstates even in rain, never feeling unstable or wobbly.
To re-torque the steering head you have to lift the front tire off the ground, remove the bars from the clamps, loosen the nut, tighten the allen head bolt through the hole in the nut, and re-tighten the nut. With the bars back on there should be a steering(static turning, wheel off the ground) load on the end of the bars like seven pounds or so(better check the manual, mine is not here right now, sorry).
This procedure really brought mine in from loosy-goosy-wobbly at about 6,000 miles. It is now at 61,000 miles and it has not needed to be done again, but is due at this mileage for sure. |
Shagg1970
| | Posted on Friday, May 09, 2014 - 10:49 am: |
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My 06 was unstable above 95 with the front end shaking, very scary. Then u switched to shinko Raven 009 and those were worse also very poor grip and never got warmed up. Now use pirelli scorpion trails and it is stable up to 125 (as fast as I'm comfortable) no shake at all. Also they warm up fast grip the road and have good feedback, and the rear is duel compound and is wearing very well, about the same rate as the front. So it may be your tires. |
Uly_man
| | Posted on Friday, May 09, 2014 - 04:07 pm: |
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A number of good points here and all VERY valid. This is what I have found over the years with the Ulys and just my own "what I found" guide to this.
Tire pressures, like any bike, are an issue and will directly effect the bikes handling and can be tricky to get right. First never rely on the gauge in a garage. Check it with your own after inflating the tire. Run the front and rear at 36 and the rear at 38 if you are a bit heavy. Warm the rubber up, maybe 10 miles, find a small kerb stone of about 25mm high and run the bike over it. You should be able to tell by doing this if the front and rear tire pressures are balanced for your weight. Adjust then as needed and keep a note of these "hot" tire pressure and only adjust them once hot. Doing them cold will confuse the issue and took me many years to learn that one.
The steering head bearings can be set up as you like. If they feel a bit "flighty" or "loose" then re-tighten them harder, back off and then re-torque to spec. If they are on the "quick" side they will make the front end feel unstable. Ok on a track but not for the road.
I took the hand guards off both of my bikes as while I was able to "dial out" most of the "wag" that comes in at about 85 ish removing them killed it dead. I also find that the wide bars make the steering over sensitive for road work which is why I cut 1 inch of each end. I also added 5 ml of heavy oil per fork which kills the front end dive but you will need to re adjust the front compression and rebound to allow for this.
Suspension set up is the next thing to do. This is NOT a "plug and play" thing and needs time and experimentation to get right. |
Simond
| | Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2014 - 03:47 am: |
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That was interesting. Mine has always given a little shake at 85 and above. Most of the time I find that making sure that I'm leaning forward and not tugging on the bars is enough to keep it at bay - but it is always there.
I've just been out on quite a windy morning with the hand guards removed and the weaving at speed has almost entirely gone....... and that's with full luggage and a Palmer medium screen set to its highest position. |
Kennywiz
| | Posted on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 07:43 am: |
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Thanks all!
I got the PR4 tires installed and at the same time had the rear bearings changed as well as had the steering head torqued. Tech said it was withing spec already.
The tires improved handling. The bike now feels like it wants to fall into turns more easily. However, multiple pressures and head torquing did nothing to change high speed issue. Damper arrives today. I think this will provide the feel I am looking for and used to.
I even tried taking the guards off as it also improves airflow across my gloves. Only a subtle change. I am running the Palmer screen mount and tall screen at the highest setting to defeat buffeting. I'm certain that is not helping matters either. |
Simond
| | Posted on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 08:45 am: |
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Today I got the wobbles back even without the guards.
There are so many variables that it is difficult to establish the exact cause...... other than the fundamentally steep head angle on a high wide long suspension travel bike. I have PR2s fitted.
I kept the speed down instead. After 146miles I still haven't seen the fuel light......... who'd have guessed that going slower uses less fuel  ! |
Uly_man
| | Posted on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 02:59 pm: |
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I would "Trev" it if I was you. |
Kennywiz
| | Posted on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 03:03 pm: |
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Trev? |
Ourdee
| | Posted on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 07:18 pm: |
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Trev = Someone who makes you fall for him and then suddenly drops you cause he is a player! |
Sir_wadsalot
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2014 - 08:07 am: |
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That tall fork and tippy handling was what steered me to the XT. I don't care how you dial it in, it's just not something I could live with coming from a sport bike background. That said, it IS kinda' nice not to feel every tiny ripple in the road up my spine.
It must work a treat on gravel though, because people love em'and it felt really wonkey on pavement, like the steep fork angle and the extra height didn't play well together. I have read that adding extra fork oil (and maybe a heavier weight?) can take some of that dive out though.
It could just be that I'm a douche (highly likely) and that's just how big trailies are. My friend has a Tiger 1050- he sat on the XT and said he'd rather have the taller Ully. C'est la vie!
The XT is fantastic, and I'm glad someone had the presence of mind to do it both ways.....and you're right, there's no way you could replace a Ully with....anything else for the same money and get this much bike....although I prefer the 1125 mill, the Sportster motor works really well here and I've never ridden anything that handled this well, two up. I can really throw it around without worrying abot killing the wife- she's not gonna fall off the back!
Awesome machines- and I agree with the consensus, the radio's gotta go! |
Uly_man
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2014 - 09:23 am: |
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"I have read that adding extra fork oil (and maybe a heavier weight?) can take some of that dive out though". Yes it does. Try 3ml of heavy oil per fork then back off the comp and rebound adjusters one full turn to start with.
These bikes can have that 85 mph "bar wobble" thing and I have had it on both my bikes. Weaving however would be road surface or tires. Or other IE Bearings, etc.
The front end can feel "over tippy" with a pointy profile tire and/ or over pressure. Do not use more than 36 psi cold on the front. And will feel "flighty" if there is not enough steering head resistance. I have had all of this on both my Ulys.
It is just my opinion, over many years of messing with the suspension, but I think most of it is caused by the rear preload setup. While it is a fact that on all bikes it effects the front steering angle it seems to be more significant on the Uly due to the high angle it already has.
If you are getting the "wag" reach back and reduce the rear pre load one turn and see what happens. This should also have an effect on how fast the bike steers in a corner.
Suspension setup is something of an "art" because it is an individual thing and NOT something that can be listed by manual settings/ numbers. You need to experiment to find what works best for you but this can take a while to learn what is required. You will not get it from a shop. |
Sir_wadsalot
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2014 - 01:13 pm: |
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But you WILL get it from Ole Wadsey!
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/sportbike-suspensio n-guide
This page has everything you ever wanted to know about suspension tuning, and more. The very first link, "Suspension Setup Guide" is what I used to teach myself. Read through it, take some tools, a notebook, and a saturday afternoon- you can't go wrong, and will learn a ton. My bike improved more in two hours of this than the previous year of flogging- all further refined at the track.
Keep that link near to your heart...
By the way, I don't get the 80 mph "wobble" or any of that- I did once but I think it was just a big wind catching the wife. It's rock solid no matter what I do! |
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