| Author | Message | ||
     Brokengq |
Began my engine rotation/valve inspection yesterday. Got the engine rotated today and began the inspection. Here's how it went so far. Front cylinder Exhaust .010 good fit .010 good fit .011 tight fit .011 tight fit .006 sloppy fit .007 sloppy fit .007 tight fit .008 tight fit..... Oh sh*t. I caught something shiny fall out of the corner of my eye. I look at my feeler gauge set in my hand to see the little nut off the end missing. I had a panic attack. I couldn't see it anywhere in the head. Despite my blurry vision from shear rage and pure adrenaline, I did manage to remember NOT to rotate the engine to move the cam (so I could look under it.) I did what anyone else would have done. Magnet time. I spent 30 minutes hunting around in the head for the nut. Couldn't find it. Out of one last ditch effort before removing the head, I stuck the magnet down the spark plug tube. *click* I pulled the magnet out of the tube to see my little nut on the end of it. Needless to say, I set everything down and made for the bathroom. | ||
| Noobuel |
Painters tape and shop rags are your friends!!! | ||
| Stevel |
Never use rags on the inside of engines. The lint and loose threads can destroy an engine. Paper towels are the plan, they're safe, as paper particulate will self destruct. | ||
| Brokengq |
Haha true. I have paper towels down just about everything. I freaked out because it was such a small nut. So far though the front cylinder is tight, but in spec. | ||
| Moorev2 |
Yeah....recently I spend about 30 mins fishing for a shim that I could not find so I can relate 100% | ||
| Brokengq |
So would anyone make any adjustments to my front cylinder? I'm in spec, but tight. | ||
| Moorev2 |
I am no expert but from my travels across the world wide web I have ascertained that looser is better....so....I just aim to be on the fringe of the loose side of "in-Spec". I believe they will tighten over time but I have yet to experience that with only 19K, perhaps someone with first hand experience will chime in. | ||
| Mhpalin |
I always change my valve gaps to the max as they will loosen with wear.If you leave them at min spec you have the chance of them becoming out of spec well before your next valve check.Noisey valves are happy valves  Mike | ||
| Reepicheep |
Red locktite... on the feeler gauges!  | ||
| Oldog |
Glad you found that Chris.... If you had missed the loss, it would have been disastrous.. | ||
| Phlegm |
Mhpalin- Did you mean tighten with wear? | ||
| Sprintst |
I dropped a number of my shims. I even ended up losing track of one, and I moved, so I finally had to just take the risk and reassemble, not knowing where that shim ended up | ||
| Mhpalin |
Yes they tighten with wear my goof up there sorry about that Mike | ||
| Brokengq |
So I'm weighing between two options. It depends on how the rear cylinder looks. If the rear cylinder is all in spec, just tight (like the front) I'm probably just going to push my next valve inspection up to 19k miles instead of 25k miles and let it go until then. But if any of the valves are out of spec on the rear, I'm just going to go ahead and do them all. Anyone see any problems with that? My exhausts so far are just a little on the tight side at ~.011. One intake valve is right at the tight end at .006 and the other is pushing the tight side at .007. .007 to .008 being the middle of the range on the intakes and .011 to .012 being the middle of the exhausts, I'm just a little tight (but still in spec) on one intake valve. So I'm pretty comfortable there. This also leads be to believe that the service was probably done by the PO. Again, I haven't had the chance to inspect the rear cylinder yet, so it all depends on that. Thoughts? | ||
| Oldog |
Chris: consider engine damage because of tight valves AND time to dismantle and rotate and then do it again early when some thing goes pear shaped. or set all valves to spec now and be done with it, till your next interval. | ||
| Brokengq |
Got it. Starting tonight. | ||
| Oldog |
Chris after re-reading your post if I interpret your comments correctly your front head is with in spec almost dead bang in the middle..... | ||
| Brokengq |
Oldog, I will try and clarify my front head measurements. Measured with blade feeler gauges. Exhaust valves Left valve: .010 blade fit well, .011 blade fit tight Right valve: .010 blade fit well, .011 blade fit tight Intake valves Left valve: .006 blade fit in loose, .007 blade fit in a little snug. Right valve: .007 blade fit loose, .008 blade fit in snug. What do you think? I hope this helps. -Chris | ||
| Brokengq |
Here are the numbers for the rear head: Left intake valve: .007 fit loose, .008 was VERY snug. Right intake valve: .007 fit pretty well, .008 did not fit. Left exhaust valve: .010 was a good fit, .011 fit snugly. Right exhaust valve: .011 fit well, .012 fit snugly. All of my valves are in spec. I have two that are a little on the tight side, but still well in spec as I can see. Little memo for myself, removing the rear valve cover sucks. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Brokengq, adjust any valve that is on the tight side to loose side. That is sage advice from just about anybody who have done this because, as you already know, valves get tight over time. Having said that, the decision is entirely up to you. Although reading your posts suggests you are looking for someone to provide you with assurances that it's ok to leave the tight valves alone for now. Which then leaves me to believe you are uncomfortable with this idea. If that's an accurate statement then why not adjust them to loose spec now? You already have it open and already went through the process of rotating. Just my 2 cents. | ||
| Oldog |
Chris, I pulled the FSM out from the book Intake 0.006~0.009, [range .003] your valves are tight Exhaust 0.013~0.010, [range also 0.003] your valves are tight I glued my valve cover gaskets to the covers, no drama then..... Rogue is right.. |
