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Dsergison
| Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2014 - 11:33 pm: |
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I bought my X1 new in 2000. I was my first street bike. lately I've been cheating on her. I looked at a BMW r1100s. going to go look at an BMW R nine T. And an Yamaha FZ9, a Triumph Street and Speed Triple. I'm just tired of blurred vision, numb hands, numb nuts, itchy nose hairs and bloody pee. the X1 vibrates so damn bad I just cant take it anymore. I have a hard as rock Corbin gunfighter seat that I hate dearly. only slightly less miserable than stock sucky ass seat because you cant sink through such a hard seat to hit the pan. I need some rubber bar mounts or something. I plan to replace all the engine mounts again... been years, they look fine, but just because it just doesn't seem to even out at 3500 like it used to. maybe it's just I'm getting old. my spine cant take this shit anymore. Please help. |
Dammitquikgentry
| Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 12:08 am: |
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I'd check iso's and motor mount. I'm sure others will chime in w better ideas. Shouldn't vibrate that bad |
Littlebuggles
| Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 01:23 am: |
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Some people load their tubular handle bar with lead shot to absorb vibration. That would be my inclination rather than cushy, squishy hand grips. Reasonably inexpensive and it might smooth out the image in your mirrors a bit too. Suggest getting some custom work on your seat by a company like Mustang for a more personal fit and feel too, bodies are all different. |
Alfau
| Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 02:59 am: |
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could be anything.. spark plugs, plug leads, coil, injectors, (use injector cleaner), fuel maps,fuel filter, Don't use ethanol fuel. tps setting, afv need setting, isolators, static timing on and on it goes. I bought a vintage Honda 400t, 1979 model to play with. Buell just sits there looking real fast. |
Kalali
| Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 07:50 am: |
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I also have a 2000 X1 and it does not vibrate anywhere close to what you experience. Replace the two rear and the one front isolators before jumping off the boat. Of course the bikes you mentioned, especially the Yamaha will be almost sewing machine smooth so you will hate the Buell even more after a test ride. The RnineT is a whole different animal. BTW, try the FZ8 instead. Much nicer and cheaper option. One thing is for sure though, you'll miss the X1 dearly after a couple of months...Guaranteed. |
Jordon_s3t
| Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 09:18 am: |
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If it used to be OK, and isn't now, something is wrong... Take a close look at your motor mounts...they may be cracked in an area that isn't obvious. My S3T doesn't smooth out until 3K. I do a visual check every ride, what you "feel" (or don't) when riding probably tells you more. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 09:20 am: |
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If you want to keep your BUELL around and last a long time ??? THE BEST ADVISE THAT "i" CAN GIVE YOU IS GET A FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL AND "PARTS BOOK" FOR YOUR YEAR/MODEL BUELL !!! Become your own "MECHANIC" !!! Get your PARTS from Al at www.AmericanSportBike.com ... (Message edited by buellistic on April 17, 2014) |
Screamer
| Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 11:46 am: |
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Tie bars with worn joints can contribute to excessive vibration. It seems the top and the front are the most likely to wear. |
Dsergison
| Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 11:48 am: |
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Yeah I know American Sport Bike. I used to sell AL handlebar risers. I have the books. Does not handle full throttle well at all, stutters real bad. I have an ecm mapper and the race ecm, I have never used the mapper. I am kinda nervous to kill the ecm. I have no experience there. I have a wileyco exhaust and custom airfilter. certianly not well tuned. I have lead in my bars now. but it's wadded up lead foil. cant remove easily. may try shot in my taller S3T bars. Thanks for the seat recomendation. I guess I was just getting the 14 year itch. I rode in this AM and it seemed to settle down. I did look at the BMW F800 online, got some quotes and going to go take a test tide. along with the RnineT. For that coin I can have a LOT of work done on the Buell. Thanks, Dan |
Trojan
| Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 11:50 am: |
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Nothing new to add except that the advice above is what I would agree with. Your Buell should definitely NOT vibrate very much above tickover speeds and certainly not above 3000rpm. My first S3 vibrated like a jackhammer from new, and coming from an 883 Sportster I thought it was normal until I rode another one! It turned out the crank was so far out of balance that it eventually snapped off the ignition rotor (I ended up being given a new bike under warranty). If yours has lasted this long it is almost definitely not that, but isolator wear as already suggested. What is the mileage on your bike? |
General_ulysses
| Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 12:31 pm: |
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I heard a rumor that the union workers at Harley may have deliberately sabotaged or at least did not perform their due diligence while manufacturing Buell cranks vs Harley cranks - their motivation being that Buell was non-union. Don't shoot the messenger, just what I heard. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 12:45 pm: |
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They did have some bad valves in 2000 as my BLAST engine dropped an exhaust valve !!! |
Dsergison
| Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 01:12 pm: |
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30k miles. I did have the flywheel nut back of around 10k miles or less. It rattled and that ate into the crank splines. I fixed that (rather creatively with individual shims driven into and lockighted into each spline tooth space.) and haven't been inside the engine since. I don't think so much it has changed suddenly, just that I have gotten less tolerant of it. Just getting cranky in my old age. (37) I would say it probably was not balanced for shit at the factory.. and I just have not had anything to compare it with. no tubers around here to ride. it does smooth out tolerably between 3300 and 3800. pretty narrow band of tolerable if you ask me |
General_ulysses
| Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 01:29 pm: |
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I have an old Gravely 2 wheel tractor that has a big crank on it with two flywheel halves that are press fit together on the crank pin. If the two halves are just slightly out of alignment the crank will "warble" and vibrate like crazy (backfiring at low speeds can cause crank pulsations powerful enough to knock it out of alignment). I'm not really familiar with Harley cranks, but other than they have two connecting rods (instead of just one on my Gravely), they look quite similar. Is the crank pin only press fit onto the two halves and not splined (or welded) to lock the two flywheel halves into alignment? |
Trojan
| Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 02:05 pm: |
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The cranks were the same as Sportster items and were pressed together (certainly not welded or splined). With early ones it seems you got a good one or a BAD one. Mine was at the far end of BAD! If the crank nut has come undone in the past then I would actually start to suspect the crank being way out of true unfortunately. The only way to find out is to strip the whole motor and get it balanced/rebuilt. Easier and cheaper to try the isolators first, then sell it if that doesn't fix it!. |
Phelan
| Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 02:11 pm: |
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Or for $2K you can pick up Phat_J's 104 HP 1250 motor in the classifieds and have some real fun |
Dsergison
| Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 03:39 pm: |
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I just emailed Phat_J thanks for the lead. that could really spice life up again. |
Phelan
| Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 05:19 pm: |
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No prob, make sure to tell him I refered you |
Alfau
| Posted on Friday, April 18, 2014 - 02:50 am: |
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It could be the ETS. there are only 6 updates on that particular part. http://www.jerseyh-d.com/products/297382-sensor-ki t-head-temperature.aspx |
Littlebuggles
| Posted on Friday, April 18, 2014 - 06:14 am: |
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On the other hand, the Speed Triple, the F800GS, and the new Tiger 800 are all beautiful looking machines when seen in the flesh, and offer a nice upright, smooth and comfortable ride (I found the Speed Triple a little tight for my knees but not so bad I didn't lust for it)... and a newer smoother ride isn't always a bad thing. There are some really great bikes out there, an old bike is, well, old. Your life, your bike, your back... what is going to wok best for you? |
Littlebuggles
| Posted on Friday, April 18, 2014 - 07:27 am: |
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Something about the greener grass here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88 5833 The discussion there was helpful and the links posted were the same as my google searches have brought up on the adventure touring bikes. OTOH, I really liked my XB12STT with a short windscreen and custom trimmed Ss saddle on it for two up riding, canyon carving and general long distance comfort, power was sweet and so smooth compared to my old tuber... so if you're diggin on the American made, Buell brand (I know I do) the XB's can be a very comfortable upgrade from the older bikes. While I've remained active I've still found my aging diabetic body (41 yrs now) is more comfortable on a more upright bike with a thicker seat than I used to need. Reason I kept the old M2 - I put both bikes up for sale at the same time, and kept the one that didn't sell right off when I found it tough to afford two. |
Alfau
| Posted on Sunday, April 20, 2014 - 03:47 am: |
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Just asking ; was the problem ever solved ? |
Dsergison
| Posted on Sunday, April 20, 2014 - 08:55 pm: |
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Its been just 5 days! No. Been to busy to test ride anything else. Thinking about the engine swap. But seems kinda silly to think it will help much. |
Alfau
| Posted on Tuesday, April 22, 2014 - 04:32 am: |
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Sorry, I meant the engine temperature sensor problem in general. All those updates indicate a real problem with that component. |
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