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Purpony
| Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2014 - 02:52 pm: |
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working on designing a set of rearsets for my X1. Once finished they will be black anodized. any input on the design - this is what i have so far.
![](http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/ae282/saleenlimited/Assem3_zps892122c3.jpg) |
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Lynrd
| Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2014 - 03:41 pm: |
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If you extend the Rt Side heal guard down you would have a place to mount the master cylinder. |
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Purpony
| Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2014 - 03:47 pm: |
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planning on the master mounting behind the rt side guard... there should be enough room. |
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Oldog
| Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2014 - 03:56 pm: |
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Are you replacing the right side frame plate? I presume that you are bushing the control levers |
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Purpony
| Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2014 - 04:05 pm: |
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no. not replacing the frame plate. Yes, bushings and bearings in everything. |
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Purpony
| Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2014 - 04:56 pm: |
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is there an advantage of separating the levers from the pegs? mounting the lever pivots under the peg mounts and moving the pegs in another 0.500" |
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Lynrd
| Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2014 - 05:25 pm: |
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I cannot think of a downside to doing that (Message edited by Lynrd on April 01, 2014) |
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Ratbuell
| Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2014 - 10:00 pm: |
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Moving inboard can make it tight on hips and knees and ankles - and close quarters for big feet. Unless you're using it on track and need the lean angle...I'd take the extra space before tucking them in tighter. |
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Rocket_in_uk
| Posted on Wednesday, April 02, 2014 - 06:25 pm: |
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is there an advantage of separating the levers from the pegs? You want to be able to swivel the foot pegs independent of the lever position, for best angle. Rocket in England |
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Purpony
| Posted on Thursday, April 03, 2014 - 02:22 pm: |
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figured i would at least see if i liked the new peg location.... here are some pics of the prototypes- coming out of the machine
cleaned up and ready to try out.
im sure some if not a lot will change. This is only revA |
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General_ulysses
| Posted on Thursday, April 03, 2014 - 02:31 pm: |
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That is freakin' awesome. you're a lucky dude having access to that kinda tech. Things sure have changed since "back in the day." |
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Oldog
| Posted on Thursday, April 03, 2014 - 04:48 pm: |
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Purpony How long did that take to print? |
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Purpony
| Posted on Thursday, April 03, 2014 - 04:58 pm: |
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2 hrs- hit start and walk away. |
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Lander_x1
| Posted on Friday, April 04, 2014 - 08:02 am: |
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wow!!!!![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/clapsmile.gif) |
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Purpony
| Posted on Friday, April 04, 2014 - 08:48 am: |
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I do like the riding position better... but also have some small tweaks to make here and there. |
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Jayvee
| Posted on Friday, April 04, 2014 - 01:30 pm: |
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The ability to prototype like that is so absolutely stunningly cool. If its "affordable" that is. If one printed an aluminum version, would the strength be more comparable to a cast item, or closer to that of a machined from billet item? Can the digital file of the prototype be converted to a CNC machine-readable file to make one from billet? |
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Phelan
| Posted on Friday, April 04, 2014 - 01:48 pm: |
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I was under the impression that he prints the protos and cnc's the finished items. I could be wrong though. Marc? |
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Purpony
| Posted on Friday, April 04, 2014 - 03:10 pm: |
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It all depends what you call affordable... lol. For the hobbyist what im using to print it not really affordable, unless you have a small home version of a printer like a maker bot or something. I do not do any 3D metal sintering (printing) at this time. The machines are very expensive ($ million or so) and part prices are crazy... its basically used for the aerospace and medical industry right now and most parts still require post machining afterwards. Where my friend works, he has a couple metal machines and says they are mostly headaches at this time. The metal printed parts are said to be as good if not better then a casting. Right now the new PW turbo geared fan engine will have a printed blade in the cold side. Pretty cool and scary at the same time. The cad file that i am drawing these in can output as a STL which is what most if not all printers use. Then I can use the same cad file to output as a solid and program on my cam software. Once i have the design all test fit using the prototype pieces, then ill machine them. |
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Redbuelljunkie
| Posted on Saturday, April 05, 2014 - 03:40 pm: |
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Very impressive. Now, if you could design a set to replace the "boomerang" on my '00 X1 which would allow me to have GP shift- I'd buy 'em! |
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Thylacine
| Posted on Sunday, April 06, 2014 - 08:32 am: |
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The boomerang and linkage is there to eliminate a gp shift. A direct shifter will accomplish your goal. |
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Redbuelljunkie
| Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2014 - 10:26 am: |
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Yes, I am searching (so far unsuccessfully) for something to replace the boomerang set-up so I can have GP shift- got any recommendations? |
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Pikeben08
| Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2014 - 10:58 am: |
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Marc, How does that machine work? In the first picture it almost looks vacu-formed like all of the parts are connected in one big sheet? |
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Purpony
| Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2014 - 11:40 am: |
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Its a stainless vat roughly 21" x 21" x 24" deep and its filled with a photo polymer liquid resin. There is a build platform (the perforated metal). This is mounted on a vertical elevator system that works its way down into the resin. The platform starts out at the surface of the resin. There is a UV laser that has X and Y mirrors what shoot up to an overhead mirror that reflects the beam into the vat. Only were the laser draws do the resin cure to a solid. Then the platform drips .004" or .006" and draws the next layer. Once its drawn all the layers the elevator rises which is what you see in the first picture as the parts are still covered in the surrounding liquid resin. (Message edited by purpony on April 08, 2014) |
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Pikeben08
| Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2014 - 01:01 pm: |
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Ah OK. Very cool! |
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Skntpig
| Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2014 - 03:02 pm: |
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Only thing I would recommend would be making them adjustable for the location of the footpeg/pivot. This may not be an issue if have already test fit and like the position. If you are making these to sell that would be a nice feature. Looks great! |
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Rocket_in_uk
| Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2014 - 07:44 pm: |
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Only thing I would recommend would be making them adjustable for the location of the footpeg/pivot. That's what I said Rocket in England |