| Author | Message | ||
     Bikerrides |
So, I took my S3T to my trusted mechanic to have new rubber installed for a trip to the Deal's Gap, etc. this up coming weekend. I call the next day to see if it's ready and he proceeds to tell me that his jack gave up while removing the front wheel, the bike fell, broke my front fender and scratched my front wheel.  Why is it that mechanics have caused practically all of the cosmetic damage to my bike since I bought it! To his credit, before I called, he had already acquired a new front fender from a fellow Buell maniac and made arrangements to have it painted molten orange. However, I'm more distressed about the damage to my pristine NOS PM wheel and dented, as well as cracked, carbon fiber Borla can.  Obviously, replacements parts are not readily available and I was thinking that I may just barter out labor with him that equals the cost of the damage. He is a great mechanic, but I am not real happy with the damage. I believe he wants to make it right, but I also want my bike to be right. I'd like opinions on costs to repair or replace these damaged parts. See photos below: Gouge  Dent  Scratches, Dents, Gouges  Dent  More pics to follow. | ||
| Dannybuell |
if trusted mechanic is no longer trusted, move on. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
NICE he jacked up the bike by floorjack against the rear shock. Real monkey work. | ||
| Two_seasons |
It is good to seek out many counselors (Proverbs) before you make a decisions that involve emotion. For me, I'm the kind of guy that appreciates a mechanic who is honest. Nobody's perfect! If he owns his own shop, easy peasy, if not, he will probably get the skids greased for you every time you grace their doorstep. Honesty and trust goes both ways! Sounds like you need to accept his apology, accept his offer on the new fender, and I'll bet he will write down the PM wheel and the Borla as things I need to make right for Stacey's bike. Good mechanics are very hard to find! If I were you, I'd call Al at American Sport Bike and get front/rear Pit Bull stands ordered. Worth the investment! You may want to also put some of your own time and sweat into your bike's mechanicals. It's not that hard to work on these bikes and you get the satisfaction of a job well done. Then  | ||
| Bikerrides |
Steve, I have no intention of leaving this mechanic...the last one kept dinging, etc. my bike and SUUUUUCKED as a mechanic. This guy is a great mechanic and was truly sickened by what happened; I believe he will do me right, but he just can't undo the damage to the wheel and exhaust. I just need to know what would be reasonable as far as what I might expect and what is customary in these situations. | ||
| D_adams |
Back when I used to wrench on bikes for a living, if I damaged it, I paid for it out of my own pocket. I learned REALLY fast not to screw shit up. If it were me that had to make it right, it would be made RIGHT. Scour the interwebz for a NOS wheel and muffler shell and get it. | ||
| Bikerrides |
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| D_adams |
Btw, I did this flat black header (not the shiny piece at the front) twice today. Got a run in the ceramic, so I had to strip it and re-shoot the ceramic.  | ||
| S1owner |
This is the rationalization I use and would like others to use if I mess up. The point is not that he had a mishap but how he addressed and solves it. We all have accidents and issues its what we do after that makes us who we are. It sounds to me like you have a good guy you are working with. | ||
| Blu1hockey |
He seems genuinely sorry. He already had started to make a mends before he even told you. And like everyone else is saying good mechanics are hard to find especially honest ones. | ||
| Phelan |
If you feel comfortable asking him, there is a set of NOS PM wheels on eBay now... for $1250. Personally I would probably try to barter out the labor costs with him. I'm sure he wants to make good on it, but I also know that high liability damages on low labor services can put a shop owner in a world of hurt. Paying in labor helps out a ton in a situation like this. | ||
| Bikerrides |
I think the labor exchange is what I'd like to do, since I've got a "huffer" front head gasket that he pointed out to me several months ago when I had it w/him to correct a pushrod gasket leak that the really bad mechanic I mentioned earlier attempted multiple times unsuccessfully to stop; he did a top end refresh and couldn't get the pushrods to stop leaking. How's that for a run-on sentence? The sucky mechanic didn't torque the head bolts to the correct spec and the gasket leaks slightly until it warms up really good. The good mechanic said it would hold for a while as long as I let it warm up really good, but would eventually go bad. I'm thinking I may bank the labor charge on that repair when it's needed and see if he'll let me pay for parts and he provide the labor as an exchange for the damaged wheel and muffler. Sound fair? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Tell him to buy some PitBull stands while he's at it...much cheaper than another muffler or set of wheels down the road. | ||
| Kc_zombie |
Buy youself some pitpull stands and learn to do it yourself. Not really that hard. Every one here is willing to help. (Message edited by kc zombie on April 06, 2014) | ||
| Blks1l |
It is hard to see the damage to the wheel, but can it be polished out, and I do mean with more then just a bit of polish from a can? I would also keep an eye for a front fender that is the original color you need, it may be cheaper then a paint job also. | ||
| Fahren |
Bikerrides, You have a PM. | ||
| Essmjay |
Wet sand the whole wheel. Start with 600, then 800, 1000, 1200, 2000, 4000. Then polish with Mothers aluminum polish. If the 600 won't remove enough to get rid of a deep scratch then try a 400 just in that area before moving on to the 600. You will have to do the whole wheel or the area you repair will look different. I just did this to a PM wheel with scratches and was worried until I got up to the higher grits because the lower grits are pretty aggressive on aluminum. Just make sure you do each stage thoroughly to get rid of the previous grits marks. Finishing with the Mothers made it look like new. I didn't use power tools, just elbow grease. | ||
| Buellistic |
My only comment is to get the FACTORY MOTOR MANUAL and PARTS BOOK for your YEAR/MODEL BUELL and learn to be your own MECHANIC ... | ||
| Skntpig |
It's a bit late but I agree with Buellistic. I have found that buying a set of pitbull stands and the FSM has saved me tons of work and money even after buying specialized tools. It's very rewarding to pull the wheels and bring them into the store vs fix this type of damage. Last mechanic I had put a clutch in my bike stripped 80% of the bolts they put back in. They were brand new polished stainless bolts and only installed one time by me. I knew they were perfect. One was so bad I had to weld a nut and another bolt on to get it out. He also ruined an $80 stainless braided clutch cable by kinking it so it leaked. I was short on time and wanted the bike ready for a roadtrip so I didn't do the clutch myself. I know where the term Monkey Wrench comes from now. Sorry you have to deal with this. | ||
| Bikerrides |
Fahren, Didn't get your PM. I debated trying to change the tires my self, but didn't feel comfortable. I keep my bike in a 8x10 storage building and don't have the space to do any big jobs w/ all the other stuff in there. Wish I had a bigger space or a garage where I could do more work on my own. Bummed, but I think he will make it right w/me. Oddly enough, I picked up a full set of silver S3 bodywork yesterday off craigslist for $75. At least I have a front fender I can put on for my trip to Deals Gap in a few days, since the one being painted for me won't be ready for a couple weeks. |
