I know most people will shout to go for the EBR ECM, but as it stands I don't see too many EBR ECM's for sale, and from EBR they're the same cost as the PC5... With the programability of the PC5, would I be better off going with something that I can tune over and over again, or just stick with the EBR ECM and have it reflashed later if needed?
The only real concern I would have with going the PC5 route, is the adaptation on the cylinders with the factory ECM, which I can get back down to 100/100 with a little bit of time...
I had an EBR on my bike and then we got a PC5 for testing. On top of the EBR I tuned it for 3 pipes we had here and a stock muffler,doing individual cylinder maps. Really liked how it turned out. But my pipes already had O2 bungs welded in for widebands so tuning was easy.I made sure AFV was at 100 before starting, unhooked speed sensor so I could look at diag mode as bike ran on dyno to see when it hit 100. Then unplugged O2s. If you have someone that can tune a PC well and are willing to put bungs in so you can do both cylinders, go for it.The maps on Dynojet website are unified front/rear.
Stacked were you able eliminate the pre 4000rpm lurching anywhere above that point the output on my CR is stellar? I have the EBR ECM on my 2009 CR and that is still a major annoyance when slogging through town. I have been tempted to increase velocity stack length to try to smooth this zone + the PC5. I do question however if this can be gained with the limits in charge velocity due to the large size of the intake ports.
You have lurching under 4000 rpm I have a 09CR with the EBR ECM with the stock exhaust and a 08R with the EBR ECM with the Keda rt3 and zero lurching on either bike.I can have my hand off the throttle at idle no lurching Has it done this right from the start or did it happen after a while? Mike
I've never used the PC5 so can't vouch for it however if your going to the trouble of setting up WB's and Dyno time then I would opt for Tuner Pro or ECMSpy and just tune the stock ECM. The EBR ECM does have some tweaks to timing as well so you have to tune both the fuel and ignition tables on the stocker. If that is more work and money than you want to spend then just buy the EBR ECM and run it out of the box. Even if it's not perfect you can later connect it up to tuner pro/Spy and dial it in further.
Three things right off the bat that I contest with that statement
1) You're forgetting the cost of dyno tuning. This will be another $100 easy.
2) Your money is going to EBR. This is a good thing. If you believe in the company (and I'd assume you do since you own one, but maybe you don't care and that's 100% fair of you) support them.
3) The EBR is plug and play. If you don't like it, spend fifteen minutes and unplug it. Oh, and you'll probably get $280 or more for it used. I'd spend that on one if I didn't want to support EBR like I do.
Just my couple of cents. I just got mine in today and I'd comment on its rideability and all the other stuff you hear from everyone with one, but it's raining and my tire is *very* low on tread. No wires yet, but may as well have them.
Also, my local bike shop does dyno days once a month, run what you brung for $20, and I'm going to do one with and without the EBR ECM because it's literally that easy.
Several things----every bike is different and a canned map is just that -- not matter if it is a PC 5, an EBR or a HD Race Tuner,they are one size fits all. Dyno tuning is usually 100.00 per hour and your 20.00 dyno run will only be one full throttle run, may not even give you an air fuel readout.
I am now using Tunerpro on a 2008 1125 here and will report back, but looks promising. My PC-5 over the top of the EBR on our 1125 really improved the bike overall, there were still some very rich spots. IIRC, I still have several maps I can share from PC.