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Stevenfrye
Posted on Friday, March 21, 2014 - 08:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So i was on my way home and at a stop light the bike just dies on me. Ay first i thought i overheated and the bike shutdown because of it. So i waited till it was cool to the touch.popped the key back and in nuetral kill switch set to run and pressed the starter button and nothing at all, but i can hear thefuel pump charging the system
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Stirz007
Posted on Friday, March 21, 2014 - 09:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Checked fuses? Starter circuit itself is not fused, but the lead to the solenoid is IIRC... If you can key on the IC, go into diagnostic mode and see if you got a code.
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Stevenfrye
Posted on Friday, March 21, 2014 - 09:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok how do i get to dianostic mode
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Stirz007
Posted on Friday, March 21, 2014 - 09:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Turn key off. Hold down both the mode and toggle buttons on the IC - keep them both pressed when you key on. You can then scroll through most recent codes, voltage, etc.
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Stevenfrye
Posted on Friday, March 21, 2014 - 10:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I got U0001
Com error
P0193
Fuel PR system
P1047
F-R AF SYSTEM ERROR
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Stirz007
Posted on Friday, March 21, 2014 - 11:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

U0001 means ECU is not communicating with IC : check your connection at the back of the ID

P1093 is a high fuel pressure code - could be one of two things: bad pressure sensor connection or bad pressure sensor.

P1047 is related to O2 sensor readings, if there is too much difference it will send the code. There is a note that this code can be related to mechanical issues, but isn't real clear on that.

The Electrical Diagnostic Manual takes you through step by step how to troubleshoot these codes. I'm guessing you don't have that available, so my gut is that you have a bad connection at the ECU or the IC given that it was running and just quit.

The manual frequently refers to the "wiggle test" (scientific, huh?) for troubleshooting bad connections, shorts or many of the root causes of throwing codes.
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Stevenfrye
Posted on Friday, March 21, 2014 - 11:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank you for helping out, so i did some checking out in the bike so hit the starter button and the relay does engages
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Ridenusa4l
Posted on Saturday, March 22, 2014 - 06:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

will it start when you turn the handlebars in different directions? I had a loose wire in the ignition harness once and it would start the bike at different handlebar locations and kill it at others.

Jake
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Stevenfrye
Posted on Saturday, March 22, 2014 - 03:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Still wont start even when i turn the handlebars different directions some friends at work suggested i check the starter solinoid they have said if it goes it kills power to nearly the whole system
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Stirz007
Posted on Saturday, March 22, 2014 - 04:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you can key on and get IC up, then there is power. Headlights work? A failed solenoid should not affect anything other than the starter itself. On the 'hot' (lead to battery) solenoid terminal, there should be the connection to the fuse box. See picture below:





The large red is hot lead to battery, the small red is lead to fuse box. Note that this does not go through solenoid, just attached at common post. The other wire on that post (black with red band) is to my battery tender plug. The green/black wire at top of solenoid is from starter switch. A bad solenoid should not cause engine to die, you just can't start it.
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Stevenfrye
Posted on Saturday, March 22, 2014 - 11:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It was the solinoid i used a screwdriver across the leads and it cranked and fired right up
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Stevenfrye
Posted on Saturday, March 22, 2014 - 11:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Still got those error codes to figure out
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Pmjolly
Posted on Sunday, March 23, 2014 - 12:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The solenoid would not cause it to stall. Putting a screwdriver across the solenoid to start does not prove the solenoid was bad. If there was not power going to the coil on the solenoid, it would not actuate. You should check for 12 volts on the coil of the solenoid when you push the start button. Your solenoid might still be good.
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Stirz007
Posted on Sunday, March 23, 2014 - 02:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PJolly is right. The green lead (picture) is from the starter switch. An easy way to see if power is going to coil is to unplug connector and test voltage to ground (frame or battery negative) when you hit the starter switch (12-14V), then you can test the black wire for continuity to ground. It's been reported before where a ground connection is loose (there are 2 chassis and 2 ECM ground connections) and has caused weird stuff to happen.
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Stimbrell
Posted on Sunday, March 23, 2014 - 05:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+1 on broken wire in ignition switch or blown headlight fuse. I have had both.
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Stevenfrye
Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2014 - 03:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok as for bad grounds when I look at this I see a can o worms and I suck at electrics where are the grounds located at pics would be a great help
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Shawns
Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2014 - 06:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There is a ground on the steering stem without it your cluster may not work. There are 2 screws, one holds the harness the other is the ground.
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Stevenfrye
Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2014 - 09:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The instrument cluster lights up and does its thing I think it's the ground on the coil switch because I can short the terminals and the bike starts and runs if I press the engine start button all I hear is the relay in the relay pack click over
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Stirz007
Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2014 - 11:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you're convinced it's the solenoid, they're cheap, less than $20 on fleabay - swap it out and see what happens.
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Stevenfrye
Posted on Wednesday, April 02, 2014 - 05:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have swapped out the solinoid I think there is a loose ground from the relay to the solinoid
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Dennis_c
Posted on Thursday, April 03, 2014 - 09:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If your ECM looses its gr. you will get a system error code
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Stevenfrye
Posted on Saturday, April 05, 2014 - 04:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well I don't know about an even ground wouldn't that keep the bike from running at all I have replaced all the relays and the starter power solinoid and after all that still does the same thing turn the key engage the engine run switch and press the starter switch and you can hear the proper relays click but no power to the starter solinoid it a green and black wire I'm assuming the black wire is the ground and the green is the power wire
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Dennis_c
Posted on Saturday, April 05, 2014 - 07:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just went through that. when I turned on the key the relay would click the IC had a eng. light, system error code the lights would come on horn would work but not a sound when I hit the starter button. Lose GR.on the ECM. That gr. is above the oil line where it goes into the stator up high just under the wiring harness you have to lay on your back to see it its a black wire.
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Stevenfrye
Posted on Sunday, April 06, 2014 - 01:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank Dennis ill look there and find out maybe it got knocked loose when highsided a couple weeks ago
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Stevenfrye
Posted on Monday, April 07, 2014 - 07:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The ground on the ecm is solid now I've traced the wires and I have solid connections from the relay to the solinoid and from to ground and battery now it seems the power wire going to the relay is bad
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Stevenfrye
Posted on Friday, April 11, 2014 - 08:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So I checked and double checked the solinoid and relay pack it all works good, according to the book the ecm is not providing the power to the relay.... now it's my understanding that the bike will not run if the ecm is blown, so why is it I can short the solinoid and start the bike. I'm a bit lost here and the grounds are good
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Friday, April 11, 2014 - 10:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

a WASG.... there is a kick stand switch on european models....the wire is available on the US models ( there was a post awhile ago where the OP hooked up a quick shifter to the wire)...the lead is somewhere near the kickstand pivot -
here's the post:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/646555.html

is it possible the wire for the kick stand switch is shorted/grounded and it's telling the ECM not to allow the starter to engage?

have you had any damage to the left side of the bike? is the kick stand stock? is the HD wire harness fix (?) installed on your bike - did the tech mess around with the wires down there...hope this helps
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1125rcya
Posted on Friday, April 11, 2014 - 12:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Personally, I would pull your front fairing off. This is a total of 6 +/- screws and turn signals. You can look at your wiring going through the front fairing and access the ignition switch. It may be in your ignition switch itself. Some people have had that issue.
There's some threads on it I'm sure but my phone is acting up so all I can do is talk you into the right direction.
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Stevenfrye
Posted on Saturday, April 19, 2014 - 03:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So if I pull the front fairing off how would I go about checking the ignition switch and wire harness
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Two_seasons
Posted on Saturday, April 19, 2014 - 05:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stevenfrye:
Once you have the fairing removed you can access the back of the ignition switch.

Some here have found the ignition switch becomes faulty (the soldered connections inside break) You can actually remove the back of it and correct same.

Another area to check is where the wiring harness comes out of the fairing into the back of the ignition switch (thick black harness wrap). Some here have reported that the wiring harness can be cut or is simply bow-string tight at the fairing stay, pulling the wiring at the ignition switch until failure occurs.

If your fairing was removed after the high side, then that would be an area to look into as well.

Best wishes on finding the problem.

P.S. Error codes will continue to be displayed until you have 50 starts.

(Message edited by two_seasons on April 20, 2014)
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