| Author | Message | ||
     Henrik |
Caveman: I think Philip nailed it. Stuck (maybe punctured) float or stuck float valve. Check the float height while you're in there - it's supposed to really affect the jetting. Let us know what you find. Henrik | ||
| Pilotr |
Hi, New to your board, very nice. Just bought a '99 x-1 with FI. I was wondering if someone might enlighten me a little and share what would need to be done to convert this over from FI to a carb. Thanks in advance, Walt | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Walt, I guess the first question would be "Why?". Is the current system having problems? The 99 X1's out of the box had tons of FI issues. The race ECM fixed all of them (the vast majority anyway). The FI system works well for street use on a basically stock motor. By that I mean exhaust and intake mods only. No internal motor work. Many have had very good results using the PC III module with the correct map settings after making internal motor changes (head work, cams etc). Lots of folks also use it on a stock motor. I often wish my M2 was FI. Makes the ride from flat land to mountains much easier. No jet changes needed! Hang on, lots more will chime in on both side of the equation! Brad edited by bluzm2 on January 12, 2004 | ||
| Blake |
Kaudette, As I understand it, the race ECM does not provide a signal for the interactive exhaust valve. A PCIII, if you can find one for an older Buell, can be made to work and as I understand things, precludes the need for a race ECM. NRHS runs the stock ECM with a PCIII on their high performance XB engines. This is the place for ECM questions. We should add a separate subtopic though. Good point, it's been raised before. Lazy admin just hasn't done anything yet. ![: ]](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/proud.gif) | ||
| Renter |
Hi all, Question about the fuel cap. I like to black anodize the fuel cap and need to remove the lock. On the bottom side is a small brass bush, like to know if this small bush is threaded into the cap to hold the lock or pressed in. There are two recesses for a screwdriver tool but tried and no turning movement yet. (did not have the correct tool and stopped before destruction of the bush) Like to have a confirmation before i modify a screwdriver for proper removal. Many thanks. Renter | ||
| Renter |
Hi again, Another question about Mikuni carb HSR 42. On the Mikuni info the throttle cables are very nicely lead around the front of the frame steering head and this requires longer throttle cables than stock as i understand from the info. Does anyone know if the Buell dealer carries these longer throttle cables for the intended routing for the Mikuni ? if so what is the part number. I have a wider LSL steer and found existing cables with the CV allready a bit short (tight) Thanks, Renter | ||
| Rippin |
Renter, Give Tat at American Sport Bike a jingle. He fixed me up right away with my HSR. Ryan | ||
| Bvan |
Hi, I've just put my bike back together. The heads where flowed and the cylinders bored to 0.10 in and I've put in thunderstorm pistons. My bike is a 98 S3. I've upgraded my CV40 carb with a dynojet kit with 48 slow and 200 main jet, but now my carburetion is all wrong. Acceleration sees fine allthough i've only pulled to 3500 RPM since it isn't broken in yet. The problem i have is when i loose the throtle I have loud afterburn through the exhaust. Also when i loose the throtle, I don't slow down immediatly and the rpm drops very slowly. Is this an indication of running rich or running lean and if it's lean how can i adjust this. my idle mixture screw is allready three turns out. I would really like to use the cv40, but i've heard it's a bottleneck on om highly tuned machines. Is that what I'm experiencing here ? Any help would be very much appreciated. Ben | ||
| Bomber |
Ben . . .. check for leaky intake manifold gaskets (iffy, but an easy check, and easy fix), leaky carb gasket (really easy to fubar) . . . . I'm running a 45 slow jet, and I suspect your 48 may be contributing to the problem . . .. you don't list your location in your profile, but extreme altitude MAY be a factor . . . .. it seems your running a bit rich to me . . .. . | ||
| 57sporty |
Ben, I would guess that your running to rich. The 48 low speed is probably to much for your setup. 200 seems a little to much as well. Put it on a dyno and tune it. Steve | ||
| Captainkirk |
Check your VOES. You didn't forget to put it back on, right.....?  | ||
| Bvan |
The VOES wasn't connected before I made all the changes to my bike, and it ran fine without the VOES connected | ||
| Captainkirk |
You might wanna hook it back up...that controls your timing advance! | ||
| Shotgun |
Interesting link for any who might want a simpler tutorial than the service manual for DDFI. I have not explored the site to see how much other good dealer tech info might be available. http://cds.h-dnet.com/docent/cds/BUELL700/ref_content.htm | ||
| Xrdude |
I am in the process of putting in new intake manifold gaskets, and even tho I am using the factory service manual for my 98 S1W, I cannot get the intake manifold to come off. The manual states 'Loosen two screws holding intake manifold on primary side of engine. Do not remove.' I assume these are the screws on the back side of the manifold on the primary side of the engine. Next the manual says 'Remove two screws holding intake manifold on gearcase side. Remove intake manifold and seal ring. Slide both mounting flanges over primary side screws. Remove both intake manifold seals.' My problem is- I cannot get the screws to come all the way out on the gearcase side. The heads will not clear the intake manifold and thus will not completely unscrew to the point of removal. Any hints to make this happen? This is not brain surgery, but it just ain't happening on this manifold. Charlie | ||
| Bomber |
I've had a similar problem with my Y2K MaDeuece . . .. I just kept unscrewing the cam side screws until they were almost touching the manifold, and wiggled the daylights outa the manifold (given the slack produced by loosening the primary side screws) on an X1 I've worked on, removing the primary side screws was necessary to get the slack needed to remove the cam side screws . . . .. . hope this helps | ||
| Xrdude |
Bomber, thanks. I just leaned on it some, and finally broke the old seals loose. They were as hard as a rock. Easy to see the leak then. Charlie | ||
| Bomber |
Chas . . .yeah, those seals are made of, ehem . . . .let's just say they age quickly . . . .I plan on changing mine as part of the spring get the sccot ready ritual . . .likely a little too often, but they're cheap, and not too difficult to do . . .. I figger better in February than in July, yes? | ||
| Rhcustoms |
I need some help with modifying the fuel system on a 99 x-1. I purchased a motor and am installing it in a rigid frame. I want to keep the injection but do not want to run an internal fuel pump. I am building my own tank but simply don't want to use an aircraft style cap to make access to the pump. I want to run an external fuel pump but that's where I become confused. Buell says their pump operates at 49 psi. That however is after it has been through a regulator. Does anyone know the actual fuel pump specs. Confusion 2....An external pump would have to be regulated......before the rail or after? Confusion 3.....I assume I would have to run a a 3 port regulator with a return fuel line to the tank. I don't understand how buell is able to not run a fuel return line. Basically I want someone to design my system. There are a lot of good small pumps out there but I need some guidance. Feel free to e-mail me your suggestions or here but I access e-mail much more often. Thanks people | ||
| Firemanjim |
RH,go check out fuel pumps at http://www.fuel-pumps.net/ . And then get a 3 port regulator as you expected,with a return line to tank.And regulator goes before the fuel log/injectors. | ||
| Italialaw |
Hello Buellers, I am a newbie here and am thrilled to be a part of this group. I own a bone stock 98 S3 Thunderbolt. I just purchased a Supertrapp slip on and an S&S air cleaner. I plan on using 12-15 discs with an "open-end" cap on the Supertrapp. I will be installing these two items soon but I think I will have to re-jet the carb. I have a few questions. I have never re-jetted a carb before and want to try the "tried and true performance enhancing modifications" listed above. When I take off the stock air box, will I be able to see the carb. Further, will I be able to make the enhancing modifications without having to remove the carb from the bike. Any leads to a useful diagram of the CV carb will be beneficial. Also, what does everyone think of my "planned" Supertrapp set-up? I chose that amount of discs and the open end cap so the pipe would be loud and a good performer. Thank you and it's great to be here! | ||
| Ara |
The avenue for rejetting the carb isn't from the side, it's from below, so removing the cover of the airbox only helps a little. It is possible to rejet the carb while it's on the bike - I've done it myself - but in the end it's probably easier to remove the carb, do the work on it, and reinstall it. When you go to remove the carb, don't forget to free the little idle adjusting knob on one side and the choke knob on the other. A #45 pilot jet is the universally accepted wisdom. I wouldn't think that you'd want anything larger than a #200 main jet, and a #195 would probably work better than a #200. What's in it now? | ||
| Bomber |
Law like Ara said, but also get the service manual . . . . these motors and their subsystems are dead nuts easy to work on, but the manual will help alot in terms of what connects to which and where . . . . you wouldn't be the first guy to discover that a previous owner (or dealer tech) left something disconnected that should be connected, of mis-installed something . . . . the manual will give you a great guide as to how things should have been before you start to tinker | ||
| Italialaw |
Ara, I'm not sure what's in it now--probably the factory stock 42 and 195. I'll have to check it out. Bomber, Besides ebay, do you know where (name, phone #, web address) I can get a good deal on a used or new service manual? Do you recommend the Buell factory service manual or another brand? Thanks Fellas | ||
| Bomber |
only one I've seen is the factory one . . .. . if there's nothing on ebay, call one of the sponsors (I've dealt with Dave in Waterloo, and he's been great . . .. reports on Bubba's responsiveness at Tilley's are good, though reports on Bubba himself are, well . . . .. . ) even new one's aren't a lot of dough, and will more than pay for themselves the first time you avoid snapping a bolt deep in some inaccessible part of the engine | ||
| Aesquire |
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm & http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/carbadjust.htm these give a good idea of what you are up to. It's really simple, I like to have both the service & the parts manual. One tells you you will die if you don't put the seat back on right, about every page. (but is a very very good manual) The other shows real nice exploded drawings/views, but not a word on how to do anything. ( also gives you part #'s, and speeds up buying parts at the dealer, a lot) American Sport Bike has manuals, & your dealer can get them. | ||
| Bomber |
Aes Boy are you right about the lawyers getting into the manual writing business (one of the reasons I got out) . . . .. on another note, remind me to tell you about the track day where I DIDN'T put the seat back on right! quite, er, alerting, it was! | ||
| Djkaplan |
If you're going to remove the carb, tape up the frame tubes around it so they won't get scratched when you wiggle the carb out. You'll be glad you did. | ||
| Captainkirk |
It, If you're going to keep the stock CV40 I'd definitely recommend going with the Thunderslide kit while it's off- it made a HUGE difference in the way my bike performed. If you can afford it, the HSR42-11 is the way to go. Jetting changes on the HSR take minutes as opposed to the typical 1/2 hour CV40 jet change. Let us know what you do & how it works!  | ||
| 57sporty |
Aaron and others, I am looking for some power commander maps for a modified Buell. I have XB heads ported heads, Nallin pipe with 12.5.1 compression with Andrews N80 cams, Force pipe, and racing ignition. I am going to try the fuel injection before going to a carb. Please send me any maps you may have with specifications that may work for my bike. Thank you, Steve steve_queen@charter.net |
