| Author | Message | ||
     Reepicheep |
Lake, Don't rule out tire hop. I had the dreaded "worn 2nd gear dogs", and fixed that. There are pictures of the wear in the knowledge vault... it did not look that bad when looking at the gear, but it was definitely the problem. Shortly after that was fixed, suddenly something a lot like it showed up. First gear only, high RPM only, hard acceleration only. It would often be several "jumps" though, not always just one (like the worn dogs problem). I assumed I glazed my clutch, and it was a clutch problem, and was bracing myself to pull that apart. In the meantime, I started getting big chunks out of my D220 rear tire, so I replaced that. Much to my delight, the "glazed clutch" problem totally disappeared. It was just tire hop. It was unbelievably violent when it happened, felt a lot more like the belt was jumping teeth. I thought specifically "could this be tire hop?" and thought "no way, this is too abrupt". I was wrong. Don't know an easy way to test it though. You can come to Cincinnati and we can switch rear wheels for a ride... YMMV | ||
| Al_lighton |
Bill, I too have experienced that. I thought I was jumping teeth on the belt, because I do run my belt quite loose. I had just replaced my POS Buell rear shock with a Penske, and couldn't get the front end to loft like it had before, and was getting that jumping you're talking about. I played with my rear ride height and damping settings, and it all went away. Drove me nuts for a couple weeks until I got it dialed in. Al | ||
| 1nurse1 |
Hi, I took my 2004 for it's first ride today. or it took me it depends on how you want to look at it. I don't have much riding experience but I have NEVER heard gears grind like that with the clutch fully engaged. IS that normal??? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Hey Beth. Gear grinding? I get plenty of valve noise and general rattle, but no gear grinding. Is this with the tranmission in neutral, or while your blast is underway? Does it sound like a bunch of gravel rattling around in the bottom of the engine, mainly from the left side? That's probably what it is, and you just need to adjust your primary chain tension. The manual has an easy procedure, and your dealer ought to be able to do it in 15 minutes or so. Actually, they should have done it already, but that's a different topic. The only neutral grinding I ever heard from mine was a trashed 5th gear drive assembly... believe me, you don't want to go there, especially on a Blast or a Bolt, but I doubt thats your issue. You probably just need to set your primary chain tension. It's an easy job with some basic tools. | ||
| Sarodude |
Also, to some people, an engaged clutch is one that is actually released (pulled in, stepped on, etc) 'cause they have to engage themselves (hand, foot) to do it... Let's make sure we're using the same dictionary. -Saro | ||
| 1nurse1 |
I grind when I am not moving going from neutral to first with the clutch pulled in and before I ever let it out but not when I am moving and shifting. It sounds like when you run something over with the lawnmower that you really shouldn't have. I just posted this but then I didn't see it so forgive me if this appears twice. Thanks!! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Sounds like primary chain tension. Adjustment is part of your normal maintenance routine, easy. I have not done it on a blast, but I believe all you really need is an open ended wrench (even an adjustable cresenct wrench will do it) and the right sized allen wrench. And something to measure with. If you do want to try and do it yourself, and you need more specifics, I am sure somebody with a blast manual will post some details. How many miles on the bike? When was the last dealer service? The primary chain tension should have been adjusted. | ||
| Sportyeric |
I think what Beth means is that the gears are grinding AS she's shifting into first. Yes? Tranny's are different than in a car, with synchos and such. The shift into first requires a firm, quick poke. You can't gradually ease it into gear. When the engine is cold, it makes a very loud clunk. Less so when its warm. If it continues to make noises while you are sitting there, then you may have some adjustments to make. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Ahh... I see what you mean Sporty. The bike will shift better with the primary chain tension correct however, so it still might be worth a try. Changing to Mobil 1 gear oil in transmission will also help. | ||
| Sportyeric |
It is a 2004, so I presume its brand new. The primary chain should have been adjusted at the dealers. And no need to change oil as soon as its out of the shop. Could on the next oil change if you think synthetic is better. Is it time for discussion on the merits of synthetic (which is so expensive that I would be reluctant to change it as often as one should) or the dino juice that was good enough for my pappy. | ||
| Reepicheep |
That is a true statement. If she has a good dealer that was throrough setting up her blast, then she does not need to adjust her primary chain tension. That's all I'll say. | ||
| Shotgun |
Actually, the Blast comes from the factory with a spacer inserted in the adjuster so no dealer setup is required. No adjustment necessary til the 1st regular maintenance. | ||
| Anonymous |
Beth, If what you are hearing is grinding as you shift into first gear, I'll explain the cause and what you can to to reduce is. If it is something else, ignore this.  When you pull in the clutch lever, the pressure plate spring is compressed and the clutch plates are allowed to separate to disengage the clutch. As you step on the shift lever the two parts of the clutch hub are still spinning which is what causes the sounds you are hearing. This is more pronounced when the motor is cold as the oil is very thick and causes enough friction to keep the clutch hub spinning. This is all normal. As was stated above, you can help reduce the sound by making a quick, firm shift. You also can wait a few seconds after pulling the clutch to make that shift to let the clutch hub slow down before shifting. This grinding will be most pronounced after the bike has not been ridden for a long period of time. When the bike is cold, pull clutch, count three and shift into first. Don't try to "ease" it into gear, this actually compounds the issue. As the bike breaks in, this condition will improve. Shotgun is correct, the bike is shipped with a spacer that sets primary chain tension when new and primary chain tension should not be an issue unless the bike has over about 600 miles on it. | ||
| Blake |
A good synthetic tranny lube in 75W90 helps eliminate the sticky clutch plate grinding noise phenomenon too. | ||
| Hootowl |
I second what anony said. Bike trannys are designed to be shifted quickly. Shift quickly. | ||
| 1nurse1 |
Thanks for all the input. Perhaps it is being shifted into first too slow. It is brand new and went to the dealer before I had I chance to ride it ever, with an oil leak(hose, they say). It was my first time on it so I probably did shift down slow and it did seen to be better as I rode it more(got warm). I guess it needs break in. Thanks again. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Update: Pulled everything apart and inspected with a fine tooth comb. Couldn't find anything that is in need of repair or replacement. I had to pick up some parts from the dealer so I brought the tranny & clutch pack with me. They also inspected and couldn't find any excessive wear that would cause a problem. Their best guess was a combination of a worn primary tensioner and a sticky or poorly adjusted clutch cable. I guess I'll know more after the reassembly. I'll post another update at that time. Dennis | ||
| 1buells2 |
I had this problem yesterday while trying to shift the bike into first it kept grinding and would not go into gear, the bike only has 3400 miles on it a 95 s-2 but has never done this before to me, but in cold weather I have always let the bike warm up and on this occasion did not, I thought the tranny was going, and did not want to force the transmission. It's a new bike to me so maybe it has done this before. | ||
| Reepicheep |
1BuellS2... I would start looking at: 1) Clutch cable adjustment. 2) Shifter Linkage adjustment (hitting cases?). 3) Primary chain tension. They are all simple checks / adjustments... | ||
| Reepicheep |
Anybody tried reusing one of those cometic metal primary cover gaskets? Obviously, the paper ones are toast after one use, but I wonder about the metal ones. I bought a new one anyway, and will just use it, but am wondering if I should keep the pulled metal one around as an emergency spare. edited by reepicheep on April 02, 2004 | ||
| Bomber |
Reep -- no data on your question, but I read in the instructions that came with my recently installed race kit air clearner that they suggested (for race use only, of course) doing away with the gasket and using Yamabond (or equivalent) to seal the mating surfaces . . .. ounces count, I guess . . . . . . | ||
| Shotgun |
Reep, I've had mine off and on half a dozen times and it is just as good as new. Unless you tear it up, that cometic gasket is made to be reused. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Thanks Shotgun.. I got another, so I will just use it, but I will keep the current one as a hot spare. It sure came off nicely! Thats a heck of a nice gasket. | ||
| S1hooligan |
Shotgun, what do you think about re using the derby cover gasket? as you know I was in the motor a while back and now again with the clutch deal. Should I buy a new one or can i reuse the last one? it looks in great shape.. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I have reused the derby cover gasket (the rubber band like one) probably 15 times and never had a lick of trouble. If it won't sit in the groove easily, go soak it in icewater for 5 minutes and try again. | ||
| Shotgun |
What Reep said. | ||
| Shotgun |
False neutral between 4th and 5th. The Knowledge Vault is so big right now that I can't locate what I know is there somewhere. 2001 M2. Not a problem usually but at track day yesterday, that old false neutral between 4th and 5th showed up. Not so bad when going up from 4th to 5th, just try again and it is there. But trying to scrub speed and click down 2 gears going from 125 MPH from the long straight into the 1st turn I found a BIG NEUTRAL instead a couple times and it took several clunks to get into 4th. With a lot of tail twitching when it finally did. Is it a detent plate replacement or location issue or something else? | ||
| Henrik |
Quite possibly a detent plate adjustment. The newer style plate is supposed to improve shifting, but I remember Aaron had to go back to the old style, as he couldn't get the new one adjusted properly. Could be primary chain tension or clutch/clutch cable adjustment as well. Another trick is shifting technique; preload the shifter, quick feather of the clutch while keeping pressure on the shifter - keep pressure until you know it's in gear. It takes awhile to relearn (and I still forget ), but when I do remember, that technique works very well. Henrik | ||
| Shotgun |
Thanks Henrik. Primary, clutch, cable all checked and adjusted for the track day. I'll try your "preload the shifter" technique. It only seems to be a problem at high speeds, say shifting from 4th to 5th around 110 mph or so. That's why it only shows up on track day and why I hadn't done anything about it up until now. | ||
| Henrik |
One thing about high speed, track day shifting (especially down shifting for me ) is that I really want to get it done quickly, so I can concentrate on turn One, which is approaching much quicker than I'd thought. That sometimes leads to slightly sloppy shifting. For upshifting - well you really don't want that guy behind you to pass, so again shifting may happen a bit quicker than it can be done well  That may not at all be the case for you, but I know I catch myself doing it from time to time. Henrik |
