| Author | Message | ||
     Esteban2 |
I apologize if this has been discussed previously however I've searched and have come up with nothing. I'm new to Buells, I picked up a 1997 S3 with 18,000 3 days ago. its been running like a champ since i bought it until last night. When i started it after work i heard a slight fluttering as i started it but i figured it was due to the cold weather. On the ride home i felt like as if it was running out of gas(it had like 1/4 of a tank), just ran really rough until it finally stalled on my while i was riding approximately 60mph, i pulled off the the side, checked the fuel level saw that it was fine tried to start it again and it fired right up. went straight to the gas station filled it up and headed home, approximately 8 miles later it started running rough again almost as if one of the cylinders wasn't firing properly. I parked and checked the plugs and they seemed fine. This morning i was about to head to get some new plugs just in case but the bike wouldn't start. The starter motor didn't engage, nothing. As i was pressing the starter button all i could see was that the tachometer would twitch every time i pressed it. I'm completely stumped here. I wasn't sure on the type of fuel to run so i've been putting 91 octane in. i don't know if that makes a difference. I would really appreciate the help. | ||
| General_ulysses |
Check your ignition switch. Common failure item. | ||
| Hootowl |
"ran really rough until it finally stalled on my while i was riding approximately 60mph, i pulled off the the side, checked the fuel level saw that it was fine tried to start it again and it fired right up." This is a big clue. It sounds like you're pulling a vacuum on your fuel tank. Check the vent line for kinks/blockages. When you're riding, and this happens, pop the fuel cap (without taking it off) and see what the engine does. | ||
| Akbuell |
And check your battery voltage. If OK, pull the battery and have it load tested. While the battery is out, check the batt cable ends for corrosion (both cables, both ends) and be sure the connections are snug when you put the battery back in. Ign switch good, battery good, check to see if you have 13ish volts (or more,up to 14.5V or so) across the battery terminals at 2k RPM. Your problem is most likely the switch, the battery, or the charging system. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Esteban2 |
The guy i got this bike from told me the battery was new but i'll double check that. i will also check the ignition switch I'll also check the Up until yesterday the bike fired right up with no issue. I really want to get this bike back on the road. I went back to my Kawasaki this morning since the S3 wouldn't start ant there is just no comparison. I also noticed the bike was backfiring a little bit, making a almost hissing sound from what appeared to be the carbs and then made a really weird noise when i shut it off. Something like a really lazy backfire if that makes sense. Like it was slowly releasing the last bit of exhaust. On another note, this may be a stupid question but there are two hoses that seem to lead to nowhere. The hoses say fuel line however they seem to be coming out of the air intake. What concerned me is that they were letting out moisture as they sputter air out, it wasn't oil, it didn't seem to be fuel. i just have no idea what they are for. They simply sit there not connected spitting some sort of moisture onto my engine. I'll take picture when i get off work tonight. I apologize for the ignorance, i just converted over from a Japanese bike. Thanks Guys. | ||
| Hootowl |
Those may be the breather lines from the heads. Pictures please. | ||
| Jolly |
+1 to Hootowl...it would appear that the PO ran hoses from the heads to open air vent instead of into the air cleaner or into a catch can... | ||
| Esteban2 |
Here's an update. I got home and put the bike in neutral and she started right up no real issues except the ticking is still there, sounds like a noisy lifter on a car, any idea how to take care of that or what that is? Also still a slight flutter. I kept it ruining for a while and then rode to auto zone and got some sea foam to try to clean the fuel system. Before I put it in I fired or up again. No problem I started playing with the throttle a little bit done what jerking it n I noticed it kinda sounded like it was gasping for air and almost stalled. It also backfired a little bit. Any thoughts on that? I also uploaded some images of the hoses that aren't attached to anything. Any help on this would be great. Thanks guys. The picture is kinda blurry but you can see is coming from right behind the filter and isn't connected to anything. I'll post more pictures in the daytime tomorrow.  The second picture kinda shows you where they sit.  | ||
| Hootowl |
Those are the breather lines from the heads. Oil that makes it past the umbrella valves in the heads will drip out of those hoses. Stock, they're routed into the airbox. Most folks reroute them to a catch can. Dumping it on the ground is probably not the best option. Whatever you do, make sure the lines run downhill from the heads, with no uphill sections at all. If you do, the P trap you've created will hold oil, which defeats the purpose. (You will see a lot of pictures of them running uphill on other bikes...don't do it.) The ticking you're hearing is likely your cam gears. Don't freak out, it is completely normal. Valve spring pressure pushes down on the lifter, and in turn the cam lobe, and during the part of rotation where the lifter is pushing down on the back ramp (valve is closing) of the lobe, the cam tries to turn backwards, which makes the cam's driven gear click against the drive gear. Because of variations in the position of the cam bores, HD has to leave a bit of wiggle room in the gears. They used to hand match cam sets to minimize the lash, but they abandoned this practice some years ago. If you install a louder exhaust system, you'll hardly notice it any longer.  | ||
| Hootowl |
"making a almost hissing sound from what appeared to be the carbs" There's only one carburetor. It has a vacuum operated slide. You may have heard the vacuum being released after the engine shut off, which might indicate that your slide is sticking, which would cause some of the issues you've described. Pop the air cleaner off and see if you can freely move the slide. It's in the throat of the carburetor. You'll see it. Might be as simple as spraying some carb cleaner in there. Or you can always throw a rebuild kit in there. I just bought one for my S2. It was under $20, and came with intake seals. | ||
| Hootowl |
FYI - I'm no carburetor genius, and I may have some terminology wrong there... | ||
| Koz5150 |
I am thinking pluged gas tank vent line or the breather valve in the tank may be bad or plugged. If it was carb related it would run like crap as soon as you started the bike. The ticking sounds like "regular" sportster engine noise or maybe a small exhaust leak. | ||
| Lynrd |
There is a vacuum operated electric switch (VOES) connected to the intake manifold. If the line to that is disconnected, it will make a hissing sound, and your timing will shift. Detonation could be the ticking sound you here. Maybe make sure the VOES is connected and good? It's right under the tank. | ||
| Hootowl |
"I am thinking pluged gas tank vent line" That was my first thought as well. Sure seems to fit with pulling over, checking the fuel level, and having the problem go away for a few miles. | ||
| Esteban2 |
Thanks guys. I appreciate the info. It's awesome to find a community like this. If I may ask one more new guy question. I'm used to working on all my vehicles so I would like to get an idea of this. As far as oil changes I've seen a lot of threads referring to the primary, oil tank and transmission. I know where the oil tank is but I'm not sure about the other two. How so I go about maintaining this bike? Also what are the thoughts on oil stabilizers? Sorry for being "that new guy" I'm learning a lot from you guys and really appreciate it. | ||
| Akbuell |
Do yourself a huge favor and get with Al at American Sport Bike, in the sponsor section. You will want a factory service manual for your bike. Absolutely the most important tool in the box. Will help answer (and show you how) to do a lot of the routine service. And nothing wrong with being the new guy. We have all been there at one time or another. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Hootowl |
The primary refers to the primary drive chain cavity. This chain connects the engine to the transmission. It's under the big cover on the left side of the engine. So "primary" and "tranny" mean the same thing as far as oil goes, as they both sit in the same oil. The engine oil is carried in a tank under the seat. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Low voltage would do as he described as well. Check charging. | ||
| Hootowl |
Or a bad chassis ground. Check the big ground strap that connects the frame to the engine. It's on the swingarm mount. | ||
| Buckley |
I had similar problems when my cam position sensor was on its way out. The bike would drive perfect, and suddenly stall out (like i was out of gas) at random times. At other times one cylinder would miss. Wound up replacing the cam sensor and it worked perfect after. I would definitely focus on the cheap / easy fixes first (check battery and connections, vent lines, clean carb). If you do wind up swapping out the cam sensor it will run you about $75 from the dealer. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Could be something as simple as loose battery terminals! 10mm and snug up good. |
