| Author | Message | ||
     Skymonkeyone |
a "potential buyer" for my 2008 1125 R grabbed too much throttle and balled my bike up last Friday. No major damage other than the right side clutch housing being ground down so far that the inner bearing surface is exposed and the mechanism is fouled to the point of hampering engage/disengage. I deburred the outside as best I could, refilled and bled the clutch, but it still snags and will not fully engage. I've already ordered the replacement part and it should be here early next week. Is there anything in particular I need to know before I pull all the outer allen bolts out and pull the cover? Are the bolts under load at all? Should I open the clutch bleed, remove the clutch line banjo and just slide it off? There is an exposed bolt (around 14mm) exposed in the center; does it need to be removed to swap the cover? Any advice would be appreciated. I can't access the factory manual linked to this site. | ||
| Kruizen |
Check out ukbeg.com in their download section are some files that should answer these questions | ||
| Stirz007 |
Curious as to whether the "potential buyer" is going to cover the repair costs.... | ||
| Northernyankee |
I agree that "potential buyer" should be kicking you some cash. | ||
| Skymonkeyone |
he's covering all the costs. I've already ordered two new pods and the clutch outer housing. I need a right mirror and don't want to pay $107 for it. Any leads? | ||
| Hughlysses |
Glad the "buyer" agreed to cover the costs. Good luck with finding your parts. The classified ads here and ebay are usually good parts sources. For future test rides, here's a thought. Several Badwebbers have posted a good strategy for test rides: Any test ride requires the prospective buyer to give you the asking price of the bike in cash up front. If they decide they don't want to buy the bike, they bring it back undamaged within an hour, and you give them their cash back. If they wreck it, they bought it. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
the prospective buyer give you the asking price of the bike in cash up front. I totally agree with that! But don't know how that goes in the US ,but there are not a lot of people that paying things cash these days!} | ||
| Skymonkeyone |
The UK group hint was perfect. I've got the assembly off and totally disassembled. All the subparts minus the spring and C-Clip are toast: Outer casting, spherical nut, Piston, piston sleeve, and the O-rings. The parts will arrive next Wednesday, along with a new right mirror As to the tips on "test rides": the guy is my boss at work and I told him up front "if you break it you buy it". He's laid up with a compound fracture of the right ankle (plate and six screws) plus a ton of road rash but is waiting for me to hand him the bill for the parts. He's good for it. The worst thing about this is that I had just put the bike up for sale on here and on Craigslist as a "like new" bike. I'm not going to change out the swingarm due to a little rash back near the axle, so I guess I better be willing to barter a little when it does sell. Oh well. | ||
| Skymonkeyone |
Update: after I spent $1,145 on right-side parts (which I have already installed), I've discovered a problem: the clutch won't pull the bike. When I replaced the clutch-side components (cover, cup and piston, plus all O-rings) and bled the clutch all should have been well, I did not take diaphram off or inspect the clutch pack/ hub because I had no reason to suspect they sustained any damage in the drop. Anyway, I'm a bit over it, so I'm taking it up to Chandler HD tomorrow after work and have their Buell guy try and figure it out. Again: the outer clutch was completely replaced with the '09 and up" parts and the clutch system is properly bled and "feels right". Any ideas? FWIW, when I picked up the bike from the towing yard I did give the outer nut a few turns to the left to see if it would free the piston without using an allen to keep the clutch hub bolt from rotating. Chuck | ||
| Two_seasons |
Chuck, Your Buell mechanic will be able to get in right in a matter of minutes. A touchy adjustment for sure, but doable with the right knowledge. Has been discussed on this board several times. Use the "Google Badweb" at the top of the page and type in 1125 clutch adjustment. Going to bed! |
