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Gnutlethal
| Posted on Sunday, December 22, 2013 - 10:55 am: |
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Hello Badwebbers, while changing my primary tensioner today, I noticed that the sprocket for the starter on the clutch basket is somewhat blue in color. Anybody got an idea if this could point to any problem? Thanks. Oh, and I've installed a Freespirits belt "tensioner" on my M2. Either my belt will now last forever, or it'll snap faster, than I can shift to second gear first time next year.
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Jramsey
| Posted on Sunday, December 22, 2013 - 12:20 pm: |
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Heat treatment of the gear teeth turned it blue,they all look like that. (Message edited by Jramsey on December 22, 2013) |
Buellistic
| Posted on Sunday, December 22, 2013 - 12:23 pm: |
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"PLEASE !!!", who is the supplier for the DRIVE BELT TENSIONER ??? |
Gnutlethal
| Posted on Sunday, December 22, 2013 - 12:31 pm: |
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Ah, so "they all do that, Sir"? Thanks a bunch. About the tensioner: Freespirits.it I'm not sure, if it will work, though. Discussion in the German Buell forums was, whether the ordinary ribbed Gates belt could withstand the "back-bend". The "tensioner" itself is fixed, so no fancy spring like on the XB ones. |
S1owner
| Posted on Sunday, December 22, 2013 - 12:32 pm: |
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Sorry for the high jack Buellistic that is a free spirit I believe and not available I called them they went digging on the shelfs and came up empty! I have been looking hard for one if anyone has one Its sold (Message edited by S1owner on December 22, 2013) |
Jolly
| Posted on Sunday, December 22, 2013 - 12:58 pm: |
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what does the pulley do for the belt? I mean, its obvious that it applies tension, but if the problem is that these belts break when over tight, what's the benefit of the tensioner? Doest it move the tension point of the belt closer to the pivot arm so that you don't have a changing length in the pivot arm which causes the belt to get tighter at its longest (perfectly inline with axle, swing arm pivot point and drive pulley) point? though to me it looks like thought it moves the tension point, its still lower and forward of the swing arm pivot point. I may be adding to the loss of subject on this thread, but since the photo was posted and commented on I wanted to ask an additional question.... |
S1owner
| Posted on Sunday, December 22, 2013 - 01:20 pm: |
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Jolly see my new post so we do not clutter his http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/47623/728524.html?1387736794 (Message edited by S1owner on December 22, 2013) |
Ltbuell
| Posted on Sunday, December 22, 2013 - 02:54 pm: |
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...since you are already there inside.....do the stator seal up(through the primary case) and the starter seal as well...one time seal up...just sayin'.Even consider the crank seal on that side too.Again,just sayin' so you don't have to go "inside" again...one shot deal and don't have to worry about it.LT |
Gnutlethal
| Posted on Sunday, December 22, 2013 - 04:18 pm: |
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Thanks, been doing the crank seal during this summer, since I began to loose motor oil into the primary (and from the primary onto the rear wheel by means of the breather tube). The other seals from the primary case are quite new, too. Next thing are the dreaded pushrod base seals.
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Jolly
| Posted on Sunday, December 22, 2013 - 07:00 pm: |
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check the post I did on the zippers units that look like the one above... they use a solid single billet base and collapsible push rod tubes (I still run stock push rods), the great thing about them is that they have a spring that pushes both the upper and lower seats into place. designed like the push rod tube covers on a big twin...great set up, I have it on two of my Buells. the ones above look like billet bases for stock push rod tubes? check out the set by zippers, very nice and so far leak proof!
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Pash
| Posted on Monday, December 23, 2013 - 02:59 pm: |
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I have Zippers, no leaks in 10k miles... |
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