Posted on Wednesday, December 18, 2013 - 06:03 pm:
Is it normal to have to dump a drip-can regularly? I'm new to the breather re-route. I opened the valve today thinking I'd let any build-up out, and I got a huge pile of water with a slight gas smell. I went for a ride (<25miles) and opened the valve when I got home, and got a smaller puddle of water with what looked a little bit of oil.
I also noticed that the filter for the drip can also drips pretty regularly. It's been in the 40s lately in Portland. Not sure if temperature changes things.
Posted on Wednesday, December 18, 2013 - 06:23 pm:
That sounds normal. Now if you ride it for a couple of hundred miles it will do it considerably less because you will have burned off this moisture.
Things made of metal absorb and hold moisture in cooler damp weather. When it is run and gains heat, it boils the moisture off. Because the water will not mix well with oil it will boil off as steam through the vent tubes ergo the reason for the drain off. For pollution control this spooge is run through the engine burning it off into the atmosphere rather than have it drip on the floor. This crud can cause build up on the valves, intake, and head ports.
If you do not ride it far enough, enough times in winter the primary oil will turn into a milkshake and water will start to show up in the oil. That is why it is recommended to ride it a minimum of double it's complete warm up of ten miles. That is why it is recommended to not start the engine unless you are going to ride it during the winter.
Something about tying a (potential) oil line to the exhaust makes me nervous. Mine is similar, but end just under the footpeg and is farther out away from the muffler (and rear tire) just in case.
I had a '75 CB750 that had a vent line that routed behind the engine just in front of the rear tire (I didn't put it there). One day I went to take an exit ramp and damn near went sliding sideways. Luck allowed me to save it. When I stopped I notice the entire right half of rear tire was covered in a film of oil from that vent. Now I pay more attention to that kind of stuff!
As long as it continues to let the fluid through it should be good. I use a clear gasoline in line filter on mine.
Like barry said, the filter is there to keep the engine from sucking dust and stuff back in through the breather hoses.
I don't run a catch can either. I routed it so that it drips onto the top of the back of the muffler. My theory is that it will drip onto a hot muffler and evaporate. I believe it works, so far I don't see any film on the tire and none drips on my floor.
I ran my hose next to the gas tank hose that ends behind the left side passenger foot peg. My floor stays dry and I have no filter on it. The pcv valve lets pressure out but won't pull air back in. There's really no need for a filter. Even if it did suck a little air back before the ball sealed in the valve it is so small there's no way it could pull dirt all the way up that hose.
I throw a rag on the ground and open mine every other tank of gas fillup. Easy, quick, and depending on gulf coast weather, always a couple of tablespoons drop out. Is what it is, but stuff not in intake. I'm of the opinion, to install new pcv valves , grommets , and hoses every couple of years or so much mileage just cuz. Little foam in bottom of valve gets saturated and I see no way to clean them. Not always clean stuff in foam. Btw, has anyone pulled front pcv out without rolling motor?
has anyone pulled front pcv out without rolling motor?
Should be able to by supporting the engine with a jack, unscrew the front isolator center bolt most of the way, lower the engine enough to wiggle it out.
Changed em with rocker box gasket change so had motor rolled fully anyway. Tried several weeks before and just bit bullet for maintenance at that time. I know that I try to do a lot of stuff at one time so redundancy of work is small.
I know I'll be rerouting my breathers, 90K miles of splooge ingestion:
Front head was worse. Ugliness even worked its way into a sort of shelf over a portion of the intake valve head, don't think my engine was breathing too well...
For what it is worth I never used a catch can or filter on either of my bikes. On the 06 bike I teed the pipes together and run the single tube down to the front of the exhaust. With the 10 bike I just moved the two pipes to the other side of the air filter. This works good with a Pipercross or K&N type air filter but not of course with a paper one. The tiny amount of oil/gunge collects in the corner of the base plate and I just wipe it out if needed. I would fit a catch can if I was getting a large amount of oil/gunge but you should not be getting that unless you are running the bike cold all the time.
Whatever system you use this mod works, even on a 10 bike, and you should notice right off that the bike idles better. I did.
Xbimmer My '06 had the same kind of congestion in the bottom of the intake at about 45K. I found it when I was changing intake seals. It was in the intake ports like yours was to. I cleaned it out as good as I could, then changed the spooge routing. That is some really HARD carbon build up.
Splooge is nasty stuff when you run it through an engine. Take all those dyno charts and the nay sayers using them to say there is no clear proof that a bypass gains any horse power over the stock configuration and........ OK, I'll hush. How did the valves look? Are the exhaust pipes clean inside? I just don't get the drip can if you are not spending any days on the track. One open hose and it's like having an auto dump on your can. About the tube sucking dirt up itself, I'll post a video.
I joined the two vent hoses and ran a hose with a filter on the end for a while. I wasn't happy with the film being dumped so went with a catch can. I bought the can off Ebay for a dirt bike and tapped the holes out larger for a 1/8 NPT. I got the idea for the location from a thread that Ronmold posted.