| Author | Message | ||
     Jimustanguitar |
I've got some planned maintenance this winter (valve check, ceramic coating headers, new exhaust, water pump, etc). Would I be better served by splitting the bike in two or by just rotating the engine? I haven't done either in the past (relatively new owner) is there a big time or convenience difference? | ||
| Jdugger |
If you are going to pull the headers, getting the motor secure and removing the frame and swingarm will make the job a lot easier, especially the rear header. | ||
| Hippy |
I agree with Jim it's way easier to work on the engine by removing the frame take lot's of pics. Mike | ||
| Jimustanguitar |
Has someone written up a procedure for doing this? I've disassembled a lot of complex things without instructions (and reassembled them, luckily), and can definitely figure it out, but if there are any gotcha's I'd like to know about it first, you know? | ||
| D_adams |
Get the factory service manual, it's pretty well written. It's also got pictures if you need them. Probably the worst part of the frame removal is the hidden zip ties on the wire harness. | ||
| B2tomtom |
I agree with Jim and Mike, I tried to change the rear header out without pulling the frame and finally ended up just pulling it. | ||
| Sprintst |
Having just done an engine gasket and valves, I did the rotation and while I got the rear header on and off, it's a pain I'm going to try the pull the frame method next time. | ||
| Stirz007 |
Really the only difference between rotation and removal is taking out the two bolts you already have loosened to rotate motor and then lifting off the frame. Agree with Dean - there are some things you might miss first time through (like speed sensor) if you don't check the manual. | ||
| Oldog |
I cant speak to pulling the frame for service but trying to change a rear header while the frame is on is a pain, BTW you will have to rotate the engine WAYYYYYY down to get the header out, 1313 and I found that out, when the motor slipped on the jack and rotated down till the head touched the front wheel, the header comes off goes in easier there, be careful of your wiring if you do that, additional lines need to be watched ( alternator / o2 are some ) good luck | ||
| Sprintst |
Yeah, and rotate the engine too far and you can stress the harness I got canbus errors, and I broke the leads on the horn (easy fix on those) | ||
| Dualbuells |
Here is link to pulling the frame: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/703402.html I am currently doing the valve adjustment and ceramic coating the headers. I must admit I was some what intimidated on doing this, but once I got into it, it's not bad. Take your time, and be sure you put rags around the valve springs etc. and use a strong magnet! Between Badweb and BuellXB web site has been a big help. THis link at BuellXB: http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/Buell-1125CR /Trying-to-adjust-valves.-Questions-for-understand ing. Between these two web sites and the manual makes the process less problematic! | ||
| Skymonkeyone |
The link to the entire factory manual is provided on one of the UK Buell sites and is in one of the forums here on BadWeb. It talks you step-by-step through ANYTHING you need to do. Everyone ought to have the entire document saved to their hard drive. | ||
| Cutty72 |
Here's my write up from another forum I'm on. Thought I posted it on here too, but I can't find it. http://www.twowheelfix.com/showthread.php?t=21335 |
