Author |
Message |
Diesel_lv
| Posted on Friday, November 15, 2013 - 07:40 pm: |
|
I have a 2002 X1 White Lightning, all stock. I bought the ECMSPY and cable because it would not start. I did the TPS reset and it would start rough but no cold/hi idle. I have to constantly play with the throttle to keep it running. I cannot get it to go above 2k rpms. I have also replace the O2 sensor with the Bosch replacement. New fuel and injector cleaner in it. When it starts, it pops and surges and I have to constantly play with throttle or it will die. I have done searches for cold start, wont run, rough idle, rough running, etc and cannot find any info that has helped. There are no error codes and red light stays off after initial start cycle. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
Kalali
| Posted on Saturday, November 16, 2013 - 09:59 am: |
|
Doublecheck your TPS reset procedure to make sure the throttle plate is physically closed when you reset to zero. Then turn the idle screw out until the bike idles on its own. The reading at that point should be somewhere around 5%. Get the bike nice and hot and repeat the procedure with the engine at operating temperature. |
Diesel_lv
| Posted on Saturday, November 16, 2013 - 12:52 pm: |
|
Thanks for the reply, I tried that also. Ensured that the throttle plate actually was snug in the venturi then did reset and then set it to 5.2-5.5%. Got it up to 160* C and had to constantly play with throttle to keep it running till it reached that temp. Turned it off, turned idle screw all the way out again till throttle plate was snug with venturi and did the reset again. Set it at 5.2%-5.5%. That didn't help either. It will not run cold or hot with out constant throttle play and will not go over 2k rpms cold or hot. Constantly wants to die. |
Mr_grumpy
| Posted on Saturday, November 16, 2013 - 03:15 pm: |
|
Could be low fuel pressure. Giving you enough gas to fire just, but not enough to run. |
Akbuell
| Posted on Saturday, November 16, 2013 - 04:41 pm: |
|
Not being snobby, more info would help. When you say it wouldn't start, how long did it sit? Is the bike new to you? If it ran, how did it perform prior to the no start? How old is the fuel? Just trying to get a picture. That being said, I'm with the Grumpster as it being a fuel issue. Start with the fuel tank vent, and work through the system to the intake manifold. Could the issue be water in the tank from condensation, ect? Seafoam may be your friend. Poss clogged or collapsed internals in the fuel filter. Is the throttle plate shaft intact? Rather than go through a lengthy list, I will say that my '01 X-1 will be Very Reluctant to start if it hasn't been run on a while. Not very relevant, as once it starts it will run, and runs well, but I do have to some ducking and weaving to get it to start. A TPS reset does wonders. Since you have minimized the possibility of a TPS issue, what is your AFV? Any trouble codes? Have you bypassed the sidestand switch? Pls let us know how it goes. Hope all this helps, Dave |
Diesel_lv
| Posted on Saturday, November 16, 2013 - 05:30 pm: |
|
Not snobby at all. It is new to me, bought it from a Ride Now dealership who took it in trade and couldn't get it to run. Paid $1,000 and figured I could part it out for more if I couldn't get it to run either. They had it for about a year in their back storage. So, gas was old. I drained it and put in new plus injector cleaner. Yes, throttle plate shaft is intact. AFV is 100%, No codes and sidestand is bypassed. I will start with the fuel delivery next. Thanks for the suggestion. |
Akbuell
| Posted on Saturday, November 16, 2013 - 06:38 pm: |
|
It would be really easy for me to hate you, LOL. You, sir, have scored the deal of the century. You have my admiration. Please, please, do not part the bike out. We Badwebbers will do all we can to (1) Get it running, or (2)Take it off your hands. Given the history, I would take the fuel line loose at the fuel rail,and check the fuel pressure at that point. If it checks OK, my next step would be to replace/rebuild/confirm/your choice that the injectors are functioning properly. Given the storage time, and todays crappy alcohol added fuel, the most likely culprit. Don't ignore fouled spark plugs. And check the fuse/relay contacts. Corrosion there between the appliances and the fuse box can cause goofy problems. Simply pulling/inserting the fuse/relay 3/4 times can solve the issue. Dielectric grease is you friend. Do you have a factory service manual? Hope this helps, Dave |
Two_seasons
| Posted on Saturday, November 16, 2013 - 06:49 pm: |
|
Possible ETS issue. American Sport Bike is your friend! |
Steveford
| Posted on Saturday, November 16, 2013 - 07:26 pm: |
|
You're being given very good advice. The Buell injectors have smaller orifices than the HarLee ones for better atomization so if your fuel pressure checks out okay I would pull the injectors and see just how they're spraying. They might be munged into uselessness. A new fuel filter from Napa might not be a bad idea, either. No sense giving perfectly good money to the Evil Empire if you don't have to. That would be Harley-Davidson, not Wal-Mart, although Wally World runs a close second. While you're in that area, it wouldn't hurt to give the throttle butterfly shaft screws a drop of Green Loctite as a prophylactic measure. |
Swamp2
| Posted on Saturday, November 16, 2013 - 08:07 pm: |
|
Hmmm... can't seem to find the ETS on the American Sport Bike site... |
Orngm2
| Posted on Sunday, November 17, 2013 - 06:20 am: |
|
jack your AFV up to about 150 and see how it runs... lower it from there in icrements of 5, you can change it while the bike is running and see when it cuts out... mine would only run with the AFV up to 135. I pulled the injectors and got them cleaned... PROBLEM SOLVED. |
Akbuell
| Posted on Sunday, November 17, 2013 - 09:38 am: |
|
One worthwhile check before you get too far along - pull the cover off and look at the cam position sensor. A simple visual inspection for signs of heat damage is all that is needed at this time. They sometimes short internally and overheat, leading to running issues caused by weak and/or erratic signals to the coil. |
Two_seasons
| Posted on Sunday, November 17, 2013 - 11:00 am: |
|
Ah Grasshopper (Swamp2), that is because you did not go to page two Here it is...http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17035.html |
Buellistic
| Posted on Sunday, November 17, 2013 - 11:15 am: |
|
No body ever thinks about disconnecting sensors ??? Speedometer sensor ... |
Diesel_lv
| Posted on Sunday, November 17, 2013 - 11:50 pm: |
|
Thanks for all of the above advice. I will start with the fuel system and go from there. Yes, with today's bad gas I'm sure that its probably in that area. |
Mr_grumpy
| Posted on Monday, November 18, 2013 - 05:55 am: |
|
If it's not run for over a year I'd have those injectors out & soaking in a bath of cleaner, while I went through the rest of the system, fuel pump, filter, lines etc. Action the injector solenoids with a 12v supply so that they're clicking nicely. Poxy ethanol gas you have there. Edit, It's good that you have the ECM spy & all that , but this is "Old School Buell" most of the probs you're likely to come up against are fixable with hand tools & a bit of grey matter (yours or ours lol). (Message edited by Mr_grumpy on November 18, 2013) |
Diesel_lv
| Posted on Wednesday, November 20, 2013 - 12:39 am: |
|
Fixed, injectors had crud inside. Had them rebuilt. Fuel pump only had 10psi on test. Replaced w/walbro pump. It started right up and runs great! Now its time to get it looking perfect. Thanks to everyone for their help! |
Akbuell
| Posted on Wednesday, November 20, 2013 - 08:23 am: |
|
Wonderful! Great to hear. Now that the bike is running, you can enjoy. Glad it was something reasonably easy to fix. And thank you for letting us know the problem(s) and solution. Helps add to the 'community knowledge'. Dave |
Diesel_lv
| Posted on Wednesday, November 20, 2013 - 12:23 pm: |
|
I used this fuel pump, 2003 FORD Fuel PUMP PN 317-365KPA(46-53 PSI) at AUTOZONE PN E2366. Filter doesn't fit properly so I had to rig it. If you use this one, http://www.fuel-pumps.net/521.html, the filter can rotate in any direction but you will need you own wire connections. |
Dannybuell
| Posted on Wednesday, November 20, 2013 - 12:35 pm: |
|
good job! |
Diesel_lv
| Posted on Wednesday, November 20, 2013 - 05:27 pm: |
|
Is there a dedicated page on here for what automotive parts work on out X1 fuel injection? |
Mr_grumpy
| Posted on Thursday, November 21, 2013 - 11:32 am: |
|
I once tried to start a page for part equivalents, as there's plenty of stuff that's adaptable on the Tubers, but nobody seemed to be interested & it rapidly died. Maybe time to start another. I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that the injectors are basically Ford as well. Oil filter I use is Ford Escort & twice the size of a stock filter. Brake & Clutch levers are the same as old Honda ones iirc too. Relays, tuber & XB same as 90s Jeeps. |
Diesel_lv
| Posted on Friday, December 06, 2013 - 01:41 pm: |
|
Just reading my posts and realized that I forgot a piece of info. Not sure if this was factory, prob not. The fuel line that goes between the fuel pump and regulator was mush, did not appear to be submersible. It had holes in it and when the pump would run, it would leak fuel out of the holes. I'm sure this had something to do with the low fuel pressure. I did replace the piece of hose with new, submersible, hose when I replaced the pump. Second thing I forgot is the second fuel pump that I listed above does not come with a filter, it will have to be purchased separately but will rotate in any direction to fit. No rigging necessary. |
|