| Author | Message | ||
     Jimustanguitar |
   Which parts should I buy? | ||
| Nuts4mc |
go here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/721624.html | ||
| Jdugger |
It's a big job. Plan on it taking a full day's work. | ||
| Jimustanguitar |
Is there any harm is letting it go for a few more commutes this season? (as long as it doesn't weep worse) I'm going to rotate the engine (or separate the frame, I'm not sure yet) to do the valves this winter. I also will be adding some heat shielding and having the headers ceramic coated, so I might as well just do the water pump then, if it can wait... I'd also like to have a little time to look for the cover and shaft secondhand to save some cash... | ||
| Jdugger |
> Is there any harm is letting it go for a few more commutes this season? > (as long as it doesn't weep worse) No, but it's going to go, go big, and go soon. I went from weep to filling a belly pan in two track sessions with Level-2 (intermediate) riders. It's like driving with worn universal joints... nothing really that bad is going to happen when they pop, but you are going to be stranded. And, soon.  I updated mine to 2010 kit parts. If you are interested in my '09 cover, shaft, impeller, and so on, make and offer. It's everything you need including a bad seal doing what yours is above... Not sure why you would go this route instead of a 2010 -- which you ARE NOT going to find used -- but it's an option that would allow you to do the job in parts. | ||
| Jimustanguitar |
I agree, there's no point in doing anything but the 2010 upgrade. Just replacing the seal is tempting (financially) but if I'm going through the trouble, I might as well only have to do it once. I may ride it again just long enough to heat up the oil to drain it, but this season may officially be over with. What did the whole set of parts cost you, if you don't mind my asking? | ||
| Pmjolly |
It was not cheap. The 'clutch cover' was most of it. All together was about 700 bucks from my local Harley dealer. You might be able to shop around at other dealers for better pricing. | ||
| Jimustanguitar |
I'm a little surprised that EBR doesn't sell this as a kit like they do to update the clutch slave cylinder and stator. Oh well, I'll start making calls  Thanks for the help and advice! (Message edited by jimustanguitar on October 29, 2013) | ||
| Sportster_mann |
Not convinced that the 2010 parts are any better - I have a 2010 CR (yes really !) and I still have a water pump weep. IMNSHO you may as well just replace the seal. | ||
| Jimustanguitar |
It's like driving with worn universal joints... nothing really that bad is going to happen when they pop, but you are going to be stranded. unless it's the front U-joint and you catapult your car Not convinced that the 2010 parts are any better - I have a 2010 CR (yes really !) and I still have a water pump weep. IMNSHO you may as well just replace the seal. Can anyone else comment to this point? Has anyone replaced the seals with the factory parts and gotten good mileage out of them? Is the new seal part number backwards compatible or anything like that? I know that sometimes running changes are made and the superseded part number is a direct-fit better product. | ||
| Fastphil |
Just sold my 09 R with 47000Km no problems other than stator. New RX in my in the spring | ||
| Jdugger |
The only water pump in the 5 or 6 of these bikes I've owned that failed was one on a bike that sat for a couple of years and then was pressed into track duty. The 2010 part uses pressurized oil, earlier models do not. In theory, it's better. |
