| Author | Message | ||
     Impala |
So I just picked up a 2000 X1 for an excellent price. This is my 2nd X1 (never should have sold my 1st one) and my 3rd Buell. It felt good to take her for a spin. Bike was covered with horrible white plastic dip. Removed most of it to find perfect yellow paint underneath. Still need to remove the plastic to get the rest of the white off. The riding position seems a little worse than I remember. The bike has aftermarket clip-ons and rearsets. Can anyone tell me what brand they are and the value? Considering trying to switch it back to stock. Also the front brake reservoir has been changed. Front brake works ok but feels strange. Seems to be hard to squeeze and then the brake grabs pretty hard.      | ||
| Impala |
Yes it needs a bath bad! I just got it home. Anyone have a part # for the missing allen head air cleaner cover bolt? Thanks! | ||
| Kilroy |
Get your air cleaner bolt at ACE hardware. Banke made your rearsets. | ||
| Ratbuell |
The air cleaner bolts from the factory were phillips head. | ||
| Jolly |
those clip on style bars are made from a guy selling on ebay though not sure if they are still around or not as I have not seen anything advertised fro them for a while, I think they were originally produced under a name on ebay called Col time(?)not sure but for some reason that comes to mind, then there may have been a company split or some other issue and the next shop was billet2race(?) again, anyone else that has a more accurate track please chime in. anyway, they offered a top tree with the saddle built in that you could switch back and forth from clip-ons to stock style bars. | ||
| Kc_zombie |
Looks like the original front master was swapped/upgraded to a radial style. I would flush the the brake fluid with new, (simple task) and see how the brakes function from there. There may be DOT fluid information on the res or master. If not, try to figure out who manufactured the front master and check with the them. OEM is DOT 4, if I recall correctly. Also, there could be crud built up around the exposed portion of the pucks in the front caliper. Sometimes enough builds up to interfere with free and clear operation. Congrats on the new X! BTW, PM me if you need a pdf service manual... Good luck! | ||
| Kc_zombie |
The rear sets are Buell racing, not sure of the market value... | ||
| Kilroy |
I stand corrected.. | ||
| Alfau |
Loosten the clip-ons to make the riding position your own, then lock it in. | ||
| S1owner |
Those clip ons (kind of) are down and forward it will cause alot more weight to be on your arms. Would kill me. | ||
| Fahren |
Yeah, I can't put shift weight forward like that on my hands for any length of time, so stock bars would be how I would go. Nice bike - body/frame reminds me of the colors of Erik's S1 B-) | ||
| Mikethediabetic |
Nice find! How much did you pay if you don't mind since you said you got a great deal. Also i have a nice set of factory X1 bars that i would trade you for the clip-ons if you were interested. PM me if you would like to work something out. | ||
| Impala |
I paid $1600. Bike has just under 11k miles and is mechanically sound besides the front brake issue. It appears to be the original Nissan brake with a remote reservoir. I know they changed the DOT recommendations over the years. What was the factory fluid in 2000? | ||
| Mikethediabetic |
wow thats a great price! congrats! im not home so i will let you know what the fluid is on mine when i do. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Is it me or is there something a bit off in the way the flyscreen and instruments' dashboard is? Mine and all others I have seen have the top of the dash rubbing against the back of the screen. I always but some self adhesive velcro between them to cut down the rattling. | ||
| Impala |
Yeah I remember having some foam on my old X1 to prevent the dash and windscreen from vibrating against each other. There is about a 1 inch gap on this bike. I have not looked to see if it has something to do with the clip on mounts. Now you have me curious... | ||
| Steveford |
The headlight is up too high (along with the missing foam strip). | ||
| Oldog |
the correct position for the head light is 2" down from the top tree inside to the top of the bracket on the leg. [ good catch Steve ] | ||
| Impala |
Wow good catch. I would have never noticed that about the headlight. Going to put it on the lift for a good cleaning and inspection this week. The Vance and Hines is functional but has seen better days. Does anyone know where the best price on a D&D muffler is these days? | ||
| Steveford |
Have you heard a D&D? It's quite a bit louder than the V&H with no packing and it has a rasp that you can't outrun because you're sitting right on top of it. To answer your question, I think I sold mine for $275-300 and replaced it with a titanium Wileyco. Less performance with the Wileyco but I can stand to ride the bike now. I called D&D and they had NO interest in offering anything a little less obnoxious so off to eBay land it went. | ||
| Impala |
Yeah I had a D&D muffler on my old one that I replaced when my V&H was roached and loved it. Then I tried the D&D full system and regretted it. Sounded awesome but it got old real quick and the droan was horrible. | ||
| Trojan |
your rearsets were made by Crossroads performance in the USA and some were sold under the Buell racing brand while others were sold direct by Crossroads performance. Crossroads eventually sold all their Buell range to Al Lighton at American Sportbike, so he may be the best person to let you know what they are worth now, if anything. The clip ons could also be from them but I doubt it. The Crossroads/Buell racing clip ons had a one piece plate across the top triple tree that attached the bars to the top tree using the stock bar clamps. These ones don't look familiar to me, and look a bit 'heath robinson' in design terms. Looks like your exhaust is missing the exit pipe and has been repaired and welded at the exit end? A lot of V&H pipes fell to pieces in this area once the packing wore down, so it wouldn't be unusual to see a repair. I'd get rid of it and get a better exhaust methinks  Your front master cylinder looks like a Ducati item or a generic Jap sportsbike item with a remote reservoir. If that is the case then it is probably too big for the single disc on your bike. Most twin disc bikes use a 19mm master cylider while the most suitable for teh Buell is a 16mm. If this is the case then it would result in the strange braking feel you have. That exhaust wrap is hideous...take it off!! Nice find thoough for that price especially | ||
| Hootowl |
One nice thing about the D&D, it's built like a tank. I've never heard of one failing. It is loud, but in a deep and rumbly way. Not raspy at all. Quieter than a force pipe. | ||
| Trojan |
Quieter than a force pipe. A straight through pipe is quieter than a Force pipe! I've never seen another pipe that almost amplifies the noise rather than muffles it! | ||
| Jayvee |
Nice find ! Yellow is the fastest color... | ||
| Impala |
Trojan thanks for the info! The V&H has been welded it appears multiple times. Sounds better than a regular V&H but it is ugly! Header wrap is done pretty poorly. I will rip it off and see what is underneath. I may just keep the rearsets if I can make the bars more comfortable. I just have never seen that setup with the drivers and passengers pegs as 1 setup. | ||
| Hootowl |
I wouldn't get rid of them. They're not extreme in their placement. Looks like about two inches back and 1/2 to 1 inch up. The clipons though, I'd look at replacing with the stock bar. I think you'll be much more comfortable. I find myself wishing my footpegs were back farther on long rides. And those rearsets are pretty rare. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
I scanned through and didn't see an answer to your fluid question. Kc_zombie said DOT4, that's what my Y2K M2 came with as well, should have been the same through the entire product line. If you're unsure of what's in there, bleed it out and flush with alcohol, then put fresh DOT4 in. I also concur with Jolly's summary on the history on the bars/clip-on combo upper triple clamp. That is what I recall of that style, I'm pretty sure I've never seen anyone else produce that upper triple/clip-on option. | ||
| Impala |
I put it on the lift today. First off I titled it today and realized it is a 2001 not a 2000. I remember there was a few differences with the motor ect. but don't know when that took place. Replaced the rear brake light and started an inspection. The clip ons are interesting. They have 2 positions available and they are currently in the higher position so maybe they will not be as bad as I thought? What product is best/easiest to polish the PM's? Tail has quite a few scratches in the clearcoat so a winter polishing project may be in order. | ||
| Jcs64 |
my front brakes started doing the same thing! (also '00 X1) sprayed some penetrating oil around the front brake lever (pivot pin and inside the rubber boot that goes into the m/c.) fixed it immediately! | ||
| Hootowl |
In the owner's manual, Buell recommends Mother's aluminum polish for the P(olish) M(e) wheels. | ||
| Impala |
Took it for a little ride. Clipons definitely have to go for me. A member offered me some bars, hopefully the pegs will be ok. Thanks for the info. I like Mothers products anyway so I will use their polish. Anyone have any luck with the power balls for the drill? | ||
| S1owner |
I have the power ball and the cone they work well just go slow and take your time I used them on my pl wheels and our Peterbuilts tanks | ||
| 01x1buell |
do you want to sell clip on assembely??? if so pm me |
