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Tubehead
| Posted on Saturday, October 12, 2013 - 04:46 am: |
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Yes guys I did do a search but no joy. The bike will idle rough when hot at about 1400 rpm for about 30 seconds when coming to a stop and then drop back to a normal 1000rpm idle until the throttle is opened again. Runs fine everywhere else in the rev range. I am thinking leaking inlet seals or TPS reset ? Any other suggestions? The bike feels like shit when it does this even running along in gear at low Rpm. |
Haaken
| Posted on Saturday, October 12, 2013 - 09:29 am: |
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I would reset the TPS and check the AFV. Mine was way off what it should be and was causing it to run poorly. Are there any trouble codes shown in ecmspy? Take my suggestions with a grain of salt since I am just learning how to use ECM spy and using it for diagnostic purposes. |
Hootowl
| Posted on Saturday, October 12, 2013 - 11:07 am: |
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Lower your idle just a smidge. |
Two_seasons
| Posted on Saturday, October 12, 2013 - 11:14 am: |
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Easy check to see if the intake seals are leaking. Use propane with a hose or tube and, with barely any propane coming out of the hose, place close to the intake manifold. If the idle increases, then your seals are shot. |
Alfau
| Posted on Monday, October 14, 2013 - 05:20 pm: |
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Don't idle it too slow though, because oil pressure will be adversly affected.(too low) Just under 1000 rpm. Set the idle with motor hot, not warm. Also, "Check" the TPS with the motor hot for best results. (adjust only when necessary) |
Hootowl
| Posted on Tuesday, October 15, 2013 - 09:27 am: |
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+1 on the advise above. "Set the idle with motor hot, not warm." This is key. |
Robertb1958
| Posted on Tuesday, October 15, 2013 - 08:58 pm: |
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Had similar issues. My AFV was up to 140%, and it still ran like S**t. Did the shotgun approach to fix, now it runs very well. Will try to arrange what I found in some priority: 1. My Supertrapp muffler was plugged up, found that the innard retaining screw was missing, allowing the guts to slide back and restrict the outlet, and allow the packing to move and restrict the inner passage. 2. Put the race map in. 3. Found/fixed intake leaks, but don't think they were really a big deal in comparison to items 1& 4. 4. I found that 256CC (very lean!) injectors were in the bike. Bike should have 296CC black Sagem injectors. Bought a set, put them in after having them cleaned and flow verified. Go figure! 5. Check your fuel pressure after changing your fuel filter. Make sure that it is in tolerance. 6. TPS reset, very important (and very easy). Make sure that your bike goes from low % (forget number, 4.2%?) to 100% when you twist the grip. You need ECMSPY or Tunepro and a cable to diagnose. 7. I replaced the O2 sensor, probably did not need to. Probably forgetting something, but you can check my other posts. The 2nd ECM with race map really ran a lot nicer than the OEM ECM and map, BTW. (Message edited by Robertb1958 on October 15, 2013) (Message edited by Robertb1958 on October 15, 2013) (Message edited by Robertb1958 on October 15, 2013) |
Tubehead
| Posted on Thursday, October 24, 2013 - 08:13 pm: |
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I lowered the idle to 850rpm and that seems to have fixed it! It makes no sense to me mechanically or electronically why that would fix the problem but hey it worked so guess I should let it go. |
Hootowl
| Posted on Friday, October 25, 2013 - 09:19 am: |
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If the idle is too high, it will give the bike just enough gas to keep it from returning to idle quickly when hot after you close the throttle. It hangs up around 1500 RPM for a few moments. 850 seems just a tad low though. I'd aim for 900. |
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