Author |
Message |
Jossi
| Posted on Tuesday, October 01, 2013 - 10:26 am: |
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Hi is there a complete kit for the clutch weep or do you need to specify allthe parts ?? 1125r -08 Regards Jossi |
Froggy
| Posted on Tuesday, October 01, 2013 - 10:47 am: |
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Everything you need is in this kit: http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/parts-accesso ries/clutch/ebr-clutch-actuator-cylinder-kit.html |
Jossi
| Posted on Tuesday, October 01, 2013 - 01:23 pm: |
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Thanks , its a warranty fix my dealer order parts from H-D , if i pay for the parts i buy the Oberon parts (i live in Sweden) |
Froggy
| Posted on Tuesday, October 01, 2013 - 01:28 pm: |
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If you are still under warranty, Harley part number X2086.1AM is a kit that will also fix it. I've heard nothing but good things about the Oberon unit, that is a good option for you. |
Jossi
| Posted on Tuesday, October 01, 2013 - 03:21 pm: |
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Thanks Froggy for the part number , H-D dealers here in Sweden dont know much about Buell 1125 , my local dealer dont work so much with 1125 he made a phone call to main dealer in Stockholm , they say they dont know anything about clutch problems Regards Jossi |
Spaceman
| Posted on Thursday, October 10, 2013 - 07:24 pm: |
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I was looking at my Service manual on this repair. How far in do you have to go to install the EBR kit? Does it require you to remove the secondary actuator cover or can you slip everything in through the opening under the clutch actuator cover plug? I suppose I'll need the B-49125 clutch release tool. |
Froggy
| Posted on Thursday, October 10, 2013 - 07:34 pm: |
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You don't need the clutch release tool, you simply remove the outer most cover (the piece with the braided hose coming out of it, has 1125R/CR decal). From there you remove the old actuator piece from the cover, and install the EBR version, and then reassemble. |
Froggy
| Posted on Thursday, October 10, 2013 - 07:45 pm: |
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You can follow these instructions, they are for the Harley version of the fix but the steps are the same. http://www.froggypwns.com/buellpdfs/X2086.1AM.pdf |
Kruizen
| Posted on Thursday, October 10, 2013 - 10:07 pm: |
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Hardest parts are the c-clip(get a GOOD set of internal pliers) And Bleeding the clutch when done. |
Noobuel
| Posted on Thursday, October 10, 2013 - 11:23 pm: |
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Agree with Kruizen, good circlip pliers are a must. Also, reverse bleeding the clutch seemed to work best for me as opposed to a vacuum bleed from the cover. |
Spaceman
| Posted on Friday, October 11, 2013 - 03:59 pm: |
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Thanks for all the good advice. I'll order the EBR kit and have at it. I may need a little help on bleeding it when I'm done. Not sure what "reverse bleeding" is. |
Torquehd
| Posted on Friday, October 11, 2013 - 04:45 pm: |
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCEetGIc9ks |
Spaceman
| Posted on Sunday, October 13, 2013 - 08:36 am: |
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Thanks for the YouTube video. That will make this first time fix a LOT easier for me. |
Spaceman
| Posted on Monday, October 14, 2013 - 12:39 pm: |
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Anyone where I can find touch up paint for the motor? Some of the leaking DOT4 peeled off the paint in a couple of small places. |
Froggy
| Posted on Monday, October 14, 2013 - 01:09 pm: |
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http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17372.html |
Bhushon1
| Posted on Monday, October 14, 2013 - 01:40 pm: |
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I'm having the same issues now. I just replaced the master cylinder/clutch lever assembly after some idiot decided to use '08 1125R for a parking bumper and knocked it over. Long story short, I refilled and bled the system successfully and went for a ride last night. Rode roughly 25 miles and returned no issues. Went out this morning and started it up. Once it was warmed up, I pulled the clutch lever in, shifted into 1st, and the slightest release of the lever stalled it. Restarted again, same thing. Looking down at the ground, I noticed clutch fluid on the ground and a slow weep coming from around the plastic puck. Could this be anything else, i.e., too much fluid in the reservoir, the spherical nut loose, failed o-ring, etc? Or do I simply order the EBR kit and replace the assembly?? Also if I replace the piston assembly, I'm wondering how I don't need the clutch removal tool? Isn't it required to remove the spherical nut so you can get at the piston? Maybe I'll understand more once I have the outer most cover off. Help Froggy, our Buell guru!! |
Bhushon1
| Posted on Monday, October 14, 2013 - 01:49 pm: |
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One more request: does anyone have the part numbers for: 1) clutch fluid bleeder valve 2) the two banjo bolts (one at the master up top, and one coming into the clutch assembly down the bottom) 3) brass washers If I'm going to pull this damn thing apart, I'm replacing all the bits and pieces. |
Torquehd
| Posted on Monday, October 14, 2013 - 02:01 pm: |
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you can do what I did in my video (45 seconds in), I took a dogbone 4-way that i bought at O'reily's (that's an advertisement for my favorite parts store) and ground the sides off until it would fit in the hole. I don't have a parts book here with me, but you honestly don't need to replace the 3 parts mentioned above. |
99buellx1
| Posted on Monday, October 14, 2013 - 03:26 pm: |
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I use a 19mm offset wrench for the job, works great. Like this:
|
Spaceman
| Posted on Sunday, November 03, 2013 - 07:44 pm: |
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Thanks Froggy and all for the help with my clutch weep issues. Did the job today in just a couple of hours with a new EBR actuator kit. Works great. Thanks again. |
Northernyankee
| Posted on Sunday, November 03, 2013 - 09:34 pm: |
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I do the same as 99buellx1. |