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Jossi
Posted on Tuesday, October 01, 2013 - 10:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi is there a complete kit for the clutch weep
or do you need to specify allthe parts ??
1125r -08

Regards
Jossi
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, October 01, 2013 - 10:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Everything you need is in this kit:
http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/parts-accesso ries/clutch/ebr-clutch-actuator-cylinder-kit.html
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Jossi
Posted on Tuesday, October 01, 2013 - 01:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks , its a warranty fix my dealer order parts from H-D , if i pay for the parts i buy the Oberon parts (i live in Sweden)
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, October 01, 2013 - 01:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you are still under warranty, Harley part number X2086.1AM is a kit that will also fix it.

I've heard nothing but good things about the Oberon unit, that is a good option for you.
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Jossi
Posted on Tuesday, October 01, 2013 - 03:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Froggy for the part number , H-D dealers here in Sweden dont know much about
Buell 1125 , my local dealer dont work so much
with 1125 he made a phone call to main dealer in Stockholm , they say they dont know anything about clutch problems

Regards
Jossi
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Spaceman
Posted on Thursday, October 10, 2013 - 07:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was looking at my Service manual on this repair. How far in do you have to go to install the EBR kit? Does it require you to remove the secondary actuator cover or can you slip everything in through the opening under the clutch actuator cover plug? I suppose I'll need the B-49125 clutch release tool.
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Froggy
Posted on Thursday, October 10, 2013 - 07:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You don't need the clutch release tool, you simply remove the outer most cover (the piece with the braided hose coming out of it, has 1125R/CR decal). From there you remove the old actuator piece from the cover, and install the EBR version, and then reassemble.
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Froggy
Posted on Thursday, October 10, 2013 - 07:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You can follow these instructions, they are for the Harley version of the fix but the steps are the same.

http://www.froggypwns.com/buellpdfs/X2086.1AM.pdf
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Kruizen
Posted on Thursday, October 10, 2013 - 10:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hardest parts are the c-clip(get a GOOD set of internal pliers)
And
Bleeding the clutch when done.
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Noobuel
Posted on Thursday, October 10, 2013 - 11:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Agree with Kruizen, good circlip pliers are a must. Also, reverse bleeding the clutch seemed to work best for me as opposed to a vacuum bleed from the cover.
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Spaceman
Posted on Friday, October 11, 2013 - 03:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for all the good advice. I'll order the EBR kit and have at it. I may need a little help on bleeding it when I'm done. Not sure what "reverse bleeding" is.
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Torquehd
Posted on Friday, October 11, 2013 - 04:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCEetGIc9ks
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Spaceman
Posted on Sunday, October 13, 2013 - 08:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the YouTube video. That will make this first time fix a LOT easier for me.
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Spaceman
Posted on Monday, October 14, 2013 - 12:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anyone where I can find touch up paint for the motor? Some of the leaking DOT4 peeled off the paint in a couple of small places.
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Froggy
Posted on Monday, October 14, 2013 - 01:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17372.html
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Bhushon1
Posted on Monday, October 14, 2013 - 01:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm having the same issues now. I just replaced the master cylinder/clutch lever assembly after some idiot decided to use '08 1125R for a parking bumper and knocked it over. Long story short, I refilled and bled the system successfully and went for a ride last night. Rode roughly 25 miles and returned no issues. Went out this morning and started it up. Once it was warmed up, I pulled the clutch lever in, shifted into 1st, and the slightest release of the lever stalled it. Restarted again, same thing. Looking down at the ground, I noticed clutch fluid on the ground and a slow weep coming from around the plastic puck. Could this be anything else, i.e., too much fluid in the reservoir, the spherical nut loose, failed o-ring, etc? Or do I simply order the EBR kit and replace the assembly??

Also if I replace the piston assembly, I'm wondering how I don't need the clutch removal tool? Isn't it required to remove the spherical nut so you can get at the piston? Maybe I'll understand more once I have the outer most cover off. Help Froggy, our Buell guru!!
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Bhushon1
Posted on Monday, October 14, 2013 - 01:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One more request: does anyone have the part numbers for:

1) clutch fluid bleeder valve
2) the two banjo bolts (one at the master up top, and one coming into the clutch assembly down the bottom)
3) brass washers

If I'm going to pull this damn thing apart, I'm replacing all the bits and pieces.
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Torquehd
Posted on Monday, October 14, 2013 - 02:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

you can do what I did in my video (45 seconds in), I took a dogbone 4-way that i bought at O'reily's (that's an advertisement for my favorite parts store) and ground the sides off until it would fit in the hole.
I don't have a parts book here with me, but you honestly don't need to replace the 3 parts mentioned above.
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99buellx1
Posted on Monday, October 14, 2013 - 03:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I use a 19mm offset wrench for the job, works great.


Like this:
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Spaceman
Posted on Sunday, November 03, 2013 - 07:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Froggy and all for the help with my clutch weep issues. Did the job today in just a couple of hours with a new EBR actuator kit. Works great. Thanks again.
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Northernyankee
Posted on Sunday, November 03, 2013 - 09:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I do the same as 99buellx1.
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