| Author | Message | ||
     Mattmcc00 |
So my belt snapped.  luckily i was only about 75km from home and so my buddy drove up with his trailer and we took her back home. Bought a new belt, 300$ (with tax) poorer. And during the instalation notice that my tensioner is a little wobbly. Took the tensioner apart and pressed the bearings out. Took them the General Bearing Supply and replaced the bearings and put the puley back together. and installed the new belt. Now, only a dozen km after, my belt is fraying kevlar something wicked!  Noticed that the belt is rubbing on the inside. Its rubbing on the crankcase engine body. Here is a picture of the front sproket taken from the top. Notice how far inside the belt is.  Now i am wondering if my back wheel may be misaligned? is that even possible? loosen the rear axel a little? what are your thoughts? What could cause a fraying belt rubbing on the inside? Thanks, MMcC | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
If you jack up the rear and turn the wheel the opposite way, does it track the opposite way? | ||
| Mattmcc00 |
i will try that tomorrow morning, and post back here. | ||
| Mattmcc00 |
Tried loosening the rear axel a bit, but that seems to have done nothing. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Something definitely off. See if you can get a straight edge of some sort across each pulley to see if they are parallel. Also, that's not the 2010 wheel is it? There's an outside spacer on the left side of those that could change the wheel alignment if it was missing. Back to the original thought, front and rear pulley need to be in line. You may be able to check with something as simple as a string held against the outside of the pulleys and looking for a gap. Let us know what you see. | ||
| Dpb |
Do you have the 3 bearing rear wheel? If so, I'd check to make sure you have that little spacer on the correct side. And, does your wheel turn freely? | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
+1 to the Griffmeister suggestion regarding the spacer. If that is not it then you'd better look at the idler for correct install. Since you replaced the idler bearing, are you sure it was of the same thickness as the one replaced? Is it possible to install the idler wheel backwards into the idler bracket? Just make sure all the parts are where they should be. | ||
| Teeps |
Wheel bearing(s) going out? | ||
| Mattmcc00 |
Ok, well I jacked the back wheel up, and going forward the belt moves inwards towards the bike and rubs; and turning backwards the belt move back out to where it should be. | ||
| Mattmcc00 |
I had wheel bearing failure after day 1 of doing the GS challenge this year. Which is too bad because we were one of the only 6 guys to do all the stages.... so in a great place to win it. But wrecked bearings in the back wheel cut my rally short. Just to say that the Dealer changed my bearings in the rear wheel in June. | ||
| Sparky |
Check the rear pulley flange (where the fraying is occurring) for any obvious damage like a burr or gouge that could be digging into the side of the belt. Also check all the "teeth" in both sprockets for FOD. | ||
| Mattmcc00 |
no damage other than the inside of my rear pully is now nice and silver from having the belt rub it. FOD? | ||
| Arcticktm |
Hope this isn't an insult to you, but you did install rear wheel per SM procedure, right? Torque to value, back off a few turns, torque to final value with legit torque wrench. That will impact belt tension and alignment. Do you know if this apparent misalignment is a new problem, or possibly there all along? | ||
| Thumpthump |
Check the swingarm pivot for play. | ||
| Mattmcc00 |
Arcticktm I never removed the rear wheel. To install a new belt all you need to remove is the swingarm brace. I had over torqued is i beleive, but tonight i will torque it as per spec with a torque wrench. Not sure how that could affect alignment though? MMcC | ||
| Froggy |
You installed the new belt without loosening (and later retorquing) the axle? | ||
| Reepicheep |
It think it can be done without removing the wheel if you drill out the tensioner mounting holes | ||
| Froggy |
It can be done without removing the wheel without modifying the tensioner or even removing it, you just loosen the axle and it will give you enough slack. I'm wondering if Matt damaged the swingarm or moved something out of alignment by not loosening the axle before removing the swingarm brace. | ||
| Road_kill |
I hope you find a cheap and easy fix for your belt alignment issue. I did not. At ~35k miles, I experienced the same problem. It came on quickly (alignment was spot on until then). I replaced worn belt and rear sprocket and verified front & rear sprockets were aligned, but no improvement; simply frayed a new belt and wore out a new rear sprocket in ~5k miles. I took off the swingarm and confirmed bearings were good. By now, I'm frustrated - WTF is going on here? I was about to shim out the rear sprocket via Dr. Greg's write-up on this subject when I noticed my front sprocket tranny seal had given up - great! So, I replaced rear sprocket and belt (again) along with a new front sprocket and seal. Belt alignment and wear patterns have been perfect for 10k miles!!! Close inspection of the old front sprocket showed slight wear but not uniform so I blame it. Also, be sure to orient the belt correctly, should be easy to read from right side of bike. I know, if you replace everything, it's bound to work right. Like I said, I hope you find the cheap and easy fix - I'd like to learn what it is. | ||
| Sparky |
Are you saying that the belt could be installed backwards? Could this cause belt fraying? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I wasn't aware that belts had a "right way" to be installed. Wouldn't there be an arrow? | ||
| Hughlysses |
Arcticktm I never removed the rear wheel. To install a new belt all you need to remove is the swingarm brace. Matt- I'm sure it can be done that way, but that's not per the shop manual. I wonder if these problems aren't related to defective belts or a belt problem caused during installation, rather than an alignment issue? I'm thinking there are broken fibers in one side of the belt, so that under tension, the belt "walks" to one side or the other? There's probably no easy way to check this, but you might contact Al, HD, and if all else fails Goodyear to see if they have any info. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
If the bearings behind the front pulley are out of speck (broken or badly worn), it could cause this. A bad seal at this bearing would seem to suggest a closer look at this bearing. | ||
| Road_kill |
I've read elsewhere on this site that the belt should be oriented as mentioned. I did not know of this previously because I use the shop manual and it does not specify. Of course I read about this AFTER I installed the first replacement rear sprocket and belt ... "backwards". All I can say is over the next 5k miles the belt frayed - not as bad as seen above but clearly noticeable. | ||
| Mattmcc00 |
I loosened the rear axel abour 15 turns as per the blue book. I also took the parts off and on as per the order in the blue book. I think the iassue is with the wearing on my pulley. I will paste a pic. Now I need to find a pulley which is proving difficult. No one has any instock and they are say 3-4 weeks before they can get one!  | ||
| Mattmcc00 |
I used a dial meter to check for any wobble on both sprockets and tensioner and they are all within 4 microns which is to say irrelevent. | ||
| Mattmcc00 |
Any body have part numbers for the front tranny seal Road_kill is refering too. Purhaps I should change my front seal while I have the bike opened on the lift. MMcC | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
So you think the pulley wore in a weird way and it killed you old belt too? BTW, I just went out and looked at my belt for any markings. could find NONE. They must have worn off. | ||
| Mattmcc00 |
pics    | ||
| Mattmcc00 |
Any body have part numbers for the front tranny seal Road_kill is refering too. |
