| Author | Message | ||
     Stickysheets |
at first i could ride for about 5 minutes, then it would sputter out and die. after taking apart my carb to make sure there was no sediment in it and the petcock valve. (two things a mechanic told meto check) the carb was totally clean the filter on the valve looked brand new. i put it back together and it barley idles now. i just got my service manual and if anybody had any tips to point me in the right direction i really wanna take this thing head on | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
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| Stickysheets |
thanks i just noticed this was already covered. sorry im new, and theres a lot of shit on here. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Is the idle mixture screw 2 1/2 out? Is the O-ring, spring and washer present with the idle mixture screw? Have you set the idle speed? Did you adjust the float? Does the bike actually run (can you ride it?), but it just wont idle? Sorry, but its a constant issue of "I took my carb apart to give it a good cleaning and now it wont run right". 99.99% of the time "giving the carb a good cleaning" is unnecessary and 95% of the time leads to more problems. Its very frustrating, but its over and over. When someone tells you to "give the carb a good cleaning" that translates into: "I have no idea whats wrong and I hope that fixes it". Its about the same as pulling your engine apart and putting it back together hoping that you'll fix whatever is wrong by doing so. I write this mostly for the benefit of others that might read this and fall into the 'carb must be dirty' trap. Keep us posted. We will ask a lot of questions, but I/we cant see, hear or ride your bike and we also dont know what was done to it or its history. Its the only way we can be sure we're not missing something that might be discounted as inconsequential. | ||
| Stickysheets |
it idles poorly and runs briefly. i see your point, i feel a little naive. i am a technician by trade, pretty comfortable with electrical issues, but im no mechanic... i didnt actually touch the float, or the mixture screw, he just told me to check for sediment in the bowl, there was none and i buttoned it back up. while were on the topic, the four screws that hold the bowl in seem very soft, i stripped the tips (slightly) would it be acceptable to put aftermarket screws that are a little more solid in place of them? assuming i did ruin something, i would like to rebuild the carb and replace the gasket, and o ring(s). i have a part break down but does anybody know of a kit i could buy with all the parts needed just for simplicity sake? i appreciate the help, hopefully ill stop embarrassing myself in no time haha. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, you can replace the screws. Allen heads work nicely, just avoid overtorquing. The carb doesnt need a rebuild and I would very strongly advise against it. Bike Bandit will have the gasket, if you need one. (Warning-CV carbs use a variety of different float bowl gaskets. You just might get the wrong one. So dont be surprised if you do!) O- rings should all be the same. Sorry I dont have the part numbers in front of me. Did it ever run right since you've had it? Turn the idle mixture screw 2 1/2 turns out (if it has been unplugged). The one thing that commonly gets clogged from sitting is the slow jet. Thats necessitates float bowl removal and replacing the jet with a #45. It will cause just as you describe. Not a guarantee, but common and Does Not mean the carb needs a rebuild. Just a jet. #45 is very common at a Harley dealer as its stock on many bikes. Also available at Bike Bandit. Is the intake boot okay? | ||
| Stickysheets |
im not 100% on what the idle mixture screw is because according to this part break down i got from the harley shop in lewiston id, it looks like a hose clamp screw? •••• i might just have to take this into the shop to get diagnosed and see if i can correct it from there. the 87 dollars might be worth the hassle of part swapping... i have a T-branch hose union that comes off the carb (sorry i cant give you a technical name for it) but none of the hoses have clamps and one of them was barley connected, after snugging them up and putting the carb back together is when it started idling bad. would putting light hose clamps on there be a bad idea? it was running fine at first, it just died on my way to work one morning. i started it up and was able to drive it home. it rode fine for about a month prior. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
First: The Blast isnt from California is it? Are you sure that came off the carb? Sounds like the PCV hose and if it was attached to the carb, that would be wrong (the engine could be unvented). Not having clamps on that hose wouldnt be a big deal. Is your bike stock? Got a picture? The idle mixture screw may not be shown on your breakdown because its never supposed to be accessible or adjusted (due to EPA regs). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The pics on the front page shows the carb and the screw. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/717673.html?1374684918 | ||
| Ezblast |
Cool! | ||
| Stickysheets |
thanks for your guys help. the intake boot was torn and got it swapped out. so i have to admit to possibly ••••••• up again however. i took apart my petcock valve, and it kinda fell apart. i didnt really see what direction the "T" shape indent went. i guessed and now it dies at idle when its in the "on position" but seems to run better in reserve (like i said earlier) im thinking i probably put it in wrong. i got my manual and tried looking in the glossary for "petcock" but couldnt find anything. does anybody here happen to know off the top of your head what direction it should face? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sorry, can't help you and I'm too far away from Blast parts to check. But at least it runs! |
