| Author | Message | ||
     Dmac |
Just hoping someone has figured out how to remove the paper X1 base gaskets.In a timely manner. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Remove cylinders. Use razor blade to scrape gasket off case, and off cylinders. Scrape until you see clean, clear, un-gouged metal. Install new gaskets. Reassemble engine. | ||
| Stev0 |
To add to what Rat says. I use a scraper made from a power hacksaw blade. A woodworking chisel about 1 1/2" wide makes a great scraper too. They both give you more control than a single sided razor blade. | ||
| Steveford |
A shop that I used to work at used mildly abrasive discs on an air grinder. These look like them: http://www.amazon.com/3M-07486-Scotch-Brite-Surfac e-Conditioning/dp/B000B91090/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&q id=1373851625&sr=8-13&keywords=roloc+pads You have to be careful, of course, and make sure you don't get the crap inside of the engine. | ||
| Ratbuell |
The only caution for Roloc discs on an air grinder is, you can keep pressure in one place too long and actually wear the aluminum - making the gasket surface go out of flat. Yes, a nice chisel works very well too. | ||
| Jcs64 |
I just came across a tip somewhere on here that mentioned raising the jugs just enough to pull the wrist pin clip. Do this and then leave the piston undisturbed in the cylinder. No need to deglaze or rering jeff | ||
| Oldog |
try a gasket remover spray, Be careful as it will remove the finish from the cases / cylinders if you are sloppy, use an edged tool try and avoid gouging the sealing surface, Clean is the watch word, I would skip the power tool removal route for the same reasons as Joe outlined above, if the gaskets were like the ones I had to scrape off, just be ready to spend some time at it. I used a chemical stripper scraped and re-applied and scraped some more. Good luck | ||
| S1owner |
Pm Buellistic he has a 101 class on this! | ||
| Bluzm2 |
I've never had much luck with the gasket strippers. Razor blades and wood chisels worked best for me. The power tool is a bad idea... Like Dog said above, be careful to not mess up the faying surface. | ||
| Reepicheep |
The chemical strippers seem to work better on some gaskets than others. I either use the "paint on" stuff as is, or use the spray on stuff like paint on stuff (spray it in the cap then use a brush to apply). It will take off a layer at a time until it's gone. I try and stick with bamboo skewers... you can cut and resharpen and keep wearing the edge away, and go at it hard without ever worrying about hurting the aluminum. A freshly honed wood chisel would probably go a lot faster and work better, but I hate having to un-gouge a mating surface. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
i do what Jeff says - remove the pin so you dont have to deal with new rings and honing. its really straight forward to replace a basegasket, esp if the rear cylinder | ||
| Hootowl |
"but I hate having to un-gouge a mating surface." +1 on the bamboo. It's hard as all get out, but not as hard as the aluminum. You can safely scrape with it. | ||
| Oldog |
It's hard as all get out, but not as hard as the aluminum. You can safely scrape with it. Kewl just learnt something...} | ||
| Reepicheep |
You can keep trimming down the bamboo skewer with a knife and get 20 or 30 fresh tips out of one stick. They make great glue applicators and non scratching picks as well, you can get a nice sharp point on them. Dirt cheap at the grocery store. |
