| Author | Message | ||
     Orygun |
Just purchased an 06 Uly with....102 miles on the clock! Any tips on break-in for this thing??? Till now I have been a Beemer rider and I feel like I have left the civilized world and now ride a snarling beast. Hope I am not totally crazy for getting this thing! | ||
| Tempest766 |
Yeah, you're totally crazy. But seriously, how crazy depends upon how much you spent on it. Consider that they aren't made any more and will likely NOT become collectors items for many many years. Parts are already becoming less available and you're very limited in which shops will/can work on it. Other than that...welcome to the cult! If you didn't pay much for it then it's all good. Ride the crap out of it! You'll enjoy it. IMHO the place where the uly excels is in its handling. The low centered weight distribution makes it feel like it's on rails in the twisties. | ||
| Steveford |
Follow the instructions in the manual and then switch over to synthetic at 5,000 miles. Enjoy your new bike! | ||
| Luftkoph |
Crazy,no.I had an airhead for a little over 20 years when I bought the Uly new,well the ole bmw was hardly ever ridden since then,and I finally sold it a few years ago. One of the things that turned me off of the bmw was the absurdly high price of parts,I found the oem parts for the buell to be very reasonable,and between my local dealer classic motor sports in traverse city Mich.. and american sport bike I really haven't had a problem with parts I see your from the other Milwaukee that they can't spell correctly,I'm a native oregonian myself,I was raised up the clackamas river past estacada little place called three lynx s. Enjoy and welcome aboard | ||
| Skifastbadly |
You made a horrible mistake. I'll give you $2500 for it, you can walk away without regret. And, since it seems relevant somehow, I grew up in Milwaukee, WI. | ||
| Orygun |
2500? That's tempting as its nearly 3 times what I bought it for! I used to skydive in Estacada... I used to drink Old Milwaukee... Now I just comb the internet for Buell parts - oh no - its happening already!!! | ||
| Reepicheep |
You got a smoking deal. Unless it was on fire. Then you got an OK deal.  I'm guessing it will be at least as reliable as your old airhead, and much more capable. Its a solid bike. I'd love to add an old airhead to the collection someday. Next to the Uly though, not in place of it. | ||
| Danair |
Re-locate the ecm NOW. Check out updated side stand and BAS. And get used to your wife telling you to wipe that silly grin off your face. | ||
| Red450 |
Welcome to the cult, I mean club. How did you get such a sweet deal? (Don't forget the pics!) | ||
| Mnrider |
Welcome to the Buell world and like dan says relocate the ecm. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
At the very least, push the ECM wires down so the seat isn't chafing the insulation off the wires. I've never moved the ECM on my 06 and have had zero ECM related problems in the many years I've owned the bike. I have the tall seat and don't know what the shorter seats might do. I weigh about 215 lbs and must not deflect the seat enough to cause the ECM problem. | ||
| Orygun |
Actually, I paid 5 grand for the thing....but it was insurance money from an off I had with my F800st...so I kind of look at it as trading my F8 with 40k miles on it for the uly with 100 miles on it...and I dont feel too foolish...yet... Thanks for the advice on the ECM! I'll get that done this weekend. | ||
| Orygun |
BTW - I have both seats for the bike. Using the low one now - but it isnt too comfortable. Gonna try the standard seat this afternoon. I'll let you know if I tip over! | ||
| Red450 |
If the standard seat doesn't work, let me know if you want to sell it. I have the low but it's too thin for my scrawny rear. | ||
| Danair |
If you don't like the low one, I'm interested in it. Enjoy! | ||
| Hughlysses |
Follow the instructions in the manual and then switch over to synthetic at 5,000 miles. I would amend that to say "follow the instructions in the 07-up manual". The 06 manual had VERY low RPM limits for break-in and we saw quite a few early owners who complained of oil consumption issues. Apparently there was a connection, because the 07 manual upped the RPM limits. The 06 Ulysses manual said keep the engine below 2500 RPM at all times during the first 50 miles and don't lug it. From 50 miles to 500 miles, don't exceed 3000 RPM or 55 MPH, and try to vary the RPM. My 07 manual says to keep the engine below 4000 RPM during the first 50 miles and below 5000 RPM from 50 miles to 500. After 500 miles, rev to your heart's content. While I'm not an advocate of the "motoman" break-in, I do think it's important to let the engine warm up before riding hard, vary the RPM often, and accelerate and decelerate HARD often during break-in. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I broke my bike in per the Motoman method and my bike has run better than any bike I've previously owned. Most trouble free bike I've had and it's a Buell, imagine that. I broke-in my wife's Sportster by the Motoman method and her bike runs great and burns no oil. Hugh, Sounds like your last sentence is the Motoman break-in. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Craig- it's reasonably close I guess, it's just that you can do bouts of wide-open throttle without taking the bike to redline like Motoman advocates. That said, my 07 always used some oil (of course, who knows how long the rod bearings had been going which may have contributed) while my "new" 09 engine uses virtually none, and I have no clue how it was broken in. | ||
| Mnrider |
There is actually three seats for the bike. the stock 06 seat(tall) the 07 and up seat that has a hump in the front seating area and the low seat which is my favorite and the one I use. | ||
| Teeps |
Make sure all the recalls have been completed. Check the oil often. Ride, fill, repeat. | ||
| Petro_freak |
Don't you think the changes in the '07 break in method might be due to the change cylinder or revolving part tolerances ? That 2500 rpm seems to be very conservative. A crazy mad Uly, in my mind was not designed to be kept in that range. Higher the RPM's more the heat and better sealing for the rings faster. The "Motoman" method of bouts of high and low RPM might actually help the rings go through series of temp changes and hence seal better faster ? Any thoughts ? Cheers... | ||
| Skifastbadly |
Oh, so it's going to be a thread with useful information in it for a change, eh? Fine. In that case one thing you'll want to keep an eye on is something called the 77 connector, on the right side of the bike. It's notorious for shorting. If you notice that the bike starts to misfire in the rain, that'll be the first thing to check. Some folks replace it proactively, some just hardwire it. There's plenty of information in this forum on that bit of bad design. | ||
| Uly_man |
"My 07 manual says to keep the engine below 4000 RPM during the first 50 miles and below 5000 RPM from 50 miles to 500. After 500 miles, rev to your heart's content." That last bit is the most STUPID thing I have ever read about "running in" an engine and I would not do it even with a water cooled engine. It is a proven FACT that air/oil cooled engines need time to run in. It is not the engine bearings as much as the bores. This engine takes 6 - 8k miles, to run in well, but as it does it will run smoother and build power output. I do not think you need to do anything "special" to run the engine in. The key to doing it is by "feel". Do not "lug" the engine and let the revs rise/drop as the bike "feels" the need for. From new try and keep it 1000 rpm below the red line and do not "rag" the throttle. Change the oil and filter every 5k miles. You will also find that running in a bike engine is not just about that it is also about the gearbox. This will mesh/wear to you ride style and if not done right can make for a crap box. | ||
| Orygun |
Wow. Thanks for the good info. I tried to keep the bike under 25K on the way in to work this am - but its a difficult thing to do, and the bike is pretty rough at that rpm. I am now going with - "take it easy on her for a while" as a prudent run in strategy. The motoman method says the critical run in time is the first 20 miles - the bike has over 100 now - so I am thinking that sticking with the manufacturer's suggestion (in spirit, at least) may be the way to go. So my 3 big items to proactively deal with are 1. ECM 2. BAS 3. Connector 77 Correct? I do really, really like the looks of this thing - though is feels a bit top heavy to me now...suppose I will get used to it over time. After many years I finally got used to the BMW switch gear and now I cant find the damn turn signals when I want them. BMW has ruined me!!! | ||
| Orygun |
Oh yeah - I forgot what bike I was on this morning and shifted into second without the clutch - Sounded like the transmission on my 53 jeep! Guess I will be taking it easy on the gear box as well for a while... | ||
| Teeps |
Orygun Posted on Friday, July 12, 2013 So my 3 big items to proactively deal with are 1. ECM 2. BAS 3. Connector 77 Correct? Yes, but the BAS is a recall, I think any HD dealer has to do the recall. Also if not done, have the side stand recall done too. - though is feels a bit top heavy to me now...suppose I will get used to it over time. Not likely, I'm going on 7 years with my Uly and it still feels top heavy. | ||
| Danair |
On all air cooled aircraft engines, which are ancient designs and material....cast iron, chrome rings or vice versa, it is a guaranteed cylinder pull if you baby after overhaul or new. We fly them at max power for at least the 1st 5 hrs reducing power only if oil and cylinder head temps head for the red. It uses the BMEP to force the rings against the crosshatch. Baby them and combustion gases go past the rings and glaze the oil on the cylinder wall. Oil consumption goes through the roof, turns the oil black like a diesel. Then its a pull and hone and re-ring. I quit letting my customers break in their own engines and won't let them go when I do. We don't even run them up or warm them up. 1 start, run 1 minute, do a leak check, shut down, and tow to close to the runway then full bore and gone. Factory procedure! | ||
| Uly_man |
You do not need to "baby" the engine on this bike just do not "rag" the engine in its early life. Some people treat them like a Jap four right out of the showroom which I do not think is a good idea. Not my bike though. Remember this engine is stuffed inside the frame and has little cooling even on the move. The 06 bike also has a smaller oil cooler and runs leaner, I think, than later models. An Aero engine gets lots of forced air over it and is cooler at height. Not the same on a bike stuck in traffic at 110F. "- though is feels a bit top heavy to me now...suppose I will get used to it over time. Not likely, I'm going on 7 years with my Uly and it still feels top heavy." Not something I find myself. But thats just me. "Oh yeah - I forgot what bike I was on this morning and shifted into second without the clutch." Err NO you should not do that but 2nd to 5th is fine at the right revs/load. "So my 3 big items to proactively deal with are 1. ECM 2. BAS 3. Connector 77 Correct?" The BIG one, on a 06 bike, is the Earthing point on the sub frame for the battery earth and two loom earths. If not yet done you need to file the paint off the face of the bolt mount. Trust me it MUST be done as it causes no end of issues to the ECM. | ||
| Tootal |
I've built a lot of engines over the years and have used the same method of break in and have never had an engine use oil. First I always break it in with Castrol 20-50. Even my friend, who is an Amsoil dealer, highly recommends Castrol. He says it's a consistent high quality product. I start an engine, let it warm up for a minute and go ride. Get to a spot where you can run 4th gear and roll on the throttle from 2500 to 4500 rpm. Try to be at full throttle by 4500 rpm. Cut the throttle and let it coast down to 2500 and do it again. I do this 12 times and the rings are seated. Since it's a roller bearing crank the rings are all you're really worried about. Run the Castrol for 100 miles and change it. Run it for 2500 miles and change it. At 5000 miles switch to synthetic. My big twin Harley goes 5000 miles on an oil change and uses none in between. On a side note, I don't use Harley's valve guide seals, they suck. They are usually the reason a Harley burns oil! Maybe someone out there knows what kind a Buell has on it. | ||
| Uly_man |
"Castrol 20-50". Its hard to beat any Castrol oil product. But just me. |
