| Author | Message | ||
     Buellqc |
Yesterday, I discovered some rusty looking water marks on the left side rear wheel hub. My bike is a 2009 Ulysses (with only 15,000 miles) that came with the red bearings type. What should I do? I really think this is a great bike and I would like to keep it as long as possible. I was eventually planning to replace my rear wheel with a 2010 but is there anything I can do to extend it for another year or two? Drill weeping holes on the hub? Replace the bearings with the ones sold on american sport bike ? Thanks for your help !  | ||
| Tootal |
Just from the picture I'd say replace those bearings. Even if they don't feel bad they will soon. Once the rust gets to the inside it acts like lapping compound and will wear out the bearing. | ||
| Froggy |
The cheap solution is to just put a new set of bearings in, but that is not the long term fix. The 2010 wheel is the way to go, but that will set you back some more coin. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Glad you spotted it before it failed! Looks like time for new bearings, unless that's just mud on there or something. | ||
| Teeps |
And, be sure to use the correct tools and follow the wheel bearing removal and installation instructions, found in the service manual, to the letter. | ||
| Buellqc |
I guess this is time for a new set of bearings and to start saving for a new 2010 wheel ! Thanks for your answers. | ||
| Motorfish |
Those guys couldn`t of said it better. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Froggy, you're just paranoid. As long as the bearings didn't spin in the hub just change them with the newer style bearings using proper procedure and be done with it. I can think of better uses for 300 plus bills.  | ||
| Ourdee |
09 has the newer bearings. I give that bearing less than 50 miles. Stop riding and replace the bearings. Should be good for a while. If you want to keep the bike, three bearings are better than two. | ||
| Uly_man |
Yes they are toast (you can see the rust spun out) and DO NOT RIDE IT until new bearings are fitted. They could go at ANY time. Do the fronts as well they will need it. "with only 15,000 miles". Why "only"? Like head bearings some last longer than others depending on the bike. They cost very little to replace. The only hard part can be getting them out. "Drill weeping holes on the hub?". Not a good idea but thats just me. These bearings are NOT waterproof. The water gets in from the outside NOT the other way around. And once water gets in the will go bad FAST. The 10 wheel has an outer seal on each end BUT the bearings will still go bad if the wheel is not fitted right. If you are thinking of getting one it may be better to do so sooner rather than later if you run the bike in more wet conditions. Also how much longer you will be able to buy them is anyones guess. More so for the stronger Uly wheel. These bearings are a std industry size/type and you can buy many versions. One type has metal seals for heavy conditions. They do not cost very much more either. | ||
| Buellqc |
Today I decided to remove the wheel from the bike to check it out. As expected the bearings on the left side are not turning smoothly and are in pretty bad shape as you can see on the pictures below : With the dust seal off, the grease doesn't look right ! Clearly, water got in somehow. How come this bike does not come with water sealed bearings?!   The other side (right) is not so bad but shows signs of giving up also :  Homemade tool to help me getting those bearings out. Works like a charm ! I took the idea from this web site : http://www.instructables.com/id/2-Motorcycle-Wheel-Bearing-Puller/  | ||
| Buellqc |
Both bearings out showing the rear side with a lot of rust coming out specially from the one on the left. Time to shop for new ones :  Also, the hub was containing a little bit of water inside :  So I got a new set of bearings waiting in the freezer so they will be easier to install tomorrow ! | ||
| Xbimmer |
Glad for you that common sense prevailed, that bearing is toast. They both look similar on the outsides to my NTN's original to my '06 that I replaced with factory KBC's (black seals) at 50K. I also had some water in my hub with no recent exposure which just sat in there rusting out the left bearing while on the stand. A dab of new grease at tire changes since then and they are still fine approaching 90k. I've also drilled a couple holes in the hub with no ill effects in 40k and expect that when I change out the bearings again at 100k the hub will be dry inside. Having a later model doesn't guarantee the newer bearings, I saw a new CR on the showroom floor at the dealer with NTN's and KBC's mixed. And I hate to point this out but it looks like you have a crack in your hub casting at 2:00 position in your last pic... | ||
| Argentcorvid |
That "crack" might just be from the casting process. There's a specific name for it that I can't remember. The inside surface of my Sportster's primary cover has it all over. but it could be a crack too. | ||
| Froggy |
Not paranoid, just experience. I've experienced multiple bearing failures over the years on multiple Buells, some I caught early, but it has happened where I broke down in the middle of nowhere when they have failed. Buying the wheel then would have saved me dealing with a tow, calling up dealers to find parts, having them installed, lost vacation travel time, etc. I really lucked out that when it did happen, Toona was within an hours drive, took me back to his shop, we swapped wheels to get me back on the road and I made it to Homecoming and back without further incident. The OP was lucky in this case, he caught it before it did any damage or left him on the side of the road, so yea I agree on just throwing new bearings in for now, but I would still invest in the replacement wheel in the near future. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I think both plans make good sense. Pay the $300 and be done with it, or be aware of the problem and pack spares and hover nervously for $50. Both are sane choices on the risk/benefit line. I'm rolling the dice and packing spare bearings for as long as the new wheel's aren't unobtanium. If it looks like they are drying up (either from salvage) before my current Uly is ground to dust, I'll snag one then. Meanwhile I am rolling the dice (and have decent odds, and a decent recovery path if things go wrong). | ||
| Mnrider |
I also drilled two 1/8th inch hole in the hub on mine. When you have the bearings out you can see the low spot when the bike would be on the sidestand. | ||
| Ourdee |
Would the casting term be "cold shut"? That is a bad thing! |
