Author |
Message |
Hotcad
| Posted on Monday, June 10, 2013 - 09:46 pm: |
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I have never been happy with the way my Uly cranked, it always started but it cranked slow. I replaced the original battery with one that had 200 cca, no better. Today I installed a Braille 15114 battery, now it cranks like I thought it should, it really spins it. Note: 360 cca Just thought I would share for those who had the same problem. |
Tootal
| Posted on Monday, June 10, 2013 - 11:07 pm: |
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I think it's a 14115 as the other number doesn't come up on their site. I never heard of them but they are made in Sarasota Florida. Very cool. |
Hotcad
| Posted on Monday, June 10, 2013 - 11:11 pm: |
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Ha! Yes, that's the right number! 14115. I just wanted to see if you were paying attention! Ha! Ha! |
Ftd
| Posted on Monday, June 10, 2013 - 11:27 pm: |
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They are well known in the custom/big cubic inch engine bike circles. |
Teeps
| Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2013 - 12:51 pm: |
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$200 including shipping; it better have the power to spin the windings off the starter motor. |
Electraglider_1997
| Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2013 - 04:06 pm: |
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http://www.impactbattery.com/braille-b14115-ytx14- bs-upgrade.html GTX14-BS Braille G14 is the higher priced lithium. |
Arcticktm
| Posted on Friday, June 14, 2013 - 01:27 pm: |
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Do you maybe have a ground or starter issue? that is a very expensive battery, at over twice the price of a Big Crank or similar. I know my '06 was hesitating on the original battery recently, but a plain old ETX14 Big Crank brought it back to quick life for about $75. rated at 220 cca, 12Ah, weighs within 1 lb of the Braille according to website specs on both. Just something to think about for those on a tighter budget. I can't complain with my stock battery lasting nearly 7 years (and still viable as a backup). |
Biffdotorg
| Posted on Wednesday, June 19, 2013 - 02:28 pm: |
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I see those Braille batteries are available on Amazon with free shipping: http://www.amazon.com/Braille-Battery-B14115-Light weight-Racing/dp/B004DDI1AG/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie =UTF8&qid=1371665725&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=Brail le+14115 I'm in the market now that my XT has hit 5 years and the crank pause is starting to annoy me. What specs am I looking for when shopping the battery? I could search, but this seems to be a warm thread to inquire within. I see the number 14 in all part numbers, that and the dimensions of the battery. Or do I just go get the part number off the OEM battery, and then cross reference it with the battery manufacturers? That's what I planned on doing. American Sportbike has never let me down, what about the battery they offer for $92.95? http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/16250.html It's just a Drag Specialties re-branded battery. Thanks for your help! |
Biffdotorg
| Posted on Wednesday, June 19, 2013 - 02:40 pm: |
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I did do a Badweb search, and it really sounds like many folks have had the best luck just buying the original HD part: 65948-00 I guess I cannot complain about the 5 years I have gotten from it. Let me know what a person should expect to gain with these higher priced batteries. |
Hotcad
| Posted on Wednesday, June 19, 2013 - 09:46 pm: |
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I've had the Braille battery for about a month now, it fit exactly as the original and spins the engine with no kickback. Happy camper here! |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Wednesday, June 19, 2013 - 09:59 pm: |
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Biff, I was one of the advocates for the stock battery. I had many that served me well, but the last one I bought was crap. So things may have changed, or I may have gotten unlucky. |
Biffdotorg
| Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2013 - 01:35 pm: |
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I ended up punching in the stocker number into Amazon of all places. The BatteryMart came up with the Deka/Big Crank version for $72.95 shipped. The funny part was the fact that we all have realized they are the same battery, but these guys used the two names interchangably. One reviewer said the one delivered was the opposite name of the one they bought, but it worked great in their Buell. So I ordered one. If it fails, I have warranty, and the stock battery as a backup in case I need to make a claim. I could just not quite justify the cost of the Braille battery. The previous owner of our boat put a full-sized AGM battery in as a cranking battery. He must have dropped some serious coin for it. But it has been a great battery too. So in the long run, they may be worth it. |
Jamba
| Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2013 - 03:28 pm: |
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I still have 2006 original battery, but i can ride only 6 months a year... |
Biffdotorg
| Posted on Wednesday, June 26, 2013 - 12:10 pm: |
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Just dropped in the Big Crank/East Penn battery last night. Same pause on compression stroke. They say that the battery is good to go out of the box. I'm wondering if it should have been put on the charger overnight before install. After the compression stroke, it spins faster, so it is noticeable. But that pause still gets me. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Wednesday, June 26, 2013 - 12:59 pm: |
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Thanks for the update Biff. Good to know. That pause bugs me also. |
Arcticktm
| Posted on Wednesday, June 26, 2013 - 01:08 pm: |
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Biff, As I said before, I bought the same battery/same place/price back in April for my '06. It did eliminate the long pause for me. I did put it on my smart charger despite what they claimed about good to go, though. I don't recall it taking too long to hit full charge, though. |
Buellerxt
| Posted on Wednesday, June 26, 2013 - 01:08 pm: |
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+1 on the pause bugging. Hard to know when the battery is trying to alert me. Oh well. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Wednesday, June 26, 2013 - 02:20 pm: |
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I have the lazy pause in my starter too. I am starting to think that perhaps the +12 connection in the starter is crappy or the solenoid or something. I went mental over the grounds and even swapped out the battery. |
Biffdotorg
| Posted on Wednesday, June 26, 2013 - 02:25 pm: |
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Thanks for the replies guys. I didn't want to beat a dead horse. But I have never put a new battery in without putting it on the charger before either. It's going on the charger tonight for sure. These 10 miles trips back an forth to work each day are not going to give it any sort of charge, I'm sure. |
Tootal
| Posted on Wednesday, June 26, 2013 - 05:33 pm: |
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I've been running an Odyssey battery for quite a while and I still have the pause occasionally but that's just the nature of a long stroke, high compression engine. I also think the stock VR doesn't fully charge these modern batteries. It seems if you put a charger on them overnight they work better. Has anybody noticed a better starting battery with an aftermarket VR? |
Krabykarl
| Posted on Wednesday, June 26, 2013 - 05:51 pm: |
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Dropped a "Big Crank" in yesterday as well. Tested voltage out of the box and it came up 12.58v. Paper with the battery said 12.8+ is 100%, 12.6 to 12.8 is 75%. Pretty big drop in percentage of power for such a small change in voltage. I thought about putting my automotive battery load tester on the new battery but decided it might kill the little 220cca unit. Dropped it in and she turned right over with no pause. Tried it a couple more times with the same result. Plugged in the battery tender and called it a day. Real test will be after riding, shutting off, letting the fan run till cool and starting again. Was going to try today but big whopping thunderstorms are passing through. |
Biffdotorg
| Posted on Thursday, June 27, 2013 - 10:34 am: |
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I put my new Big Crank on the 15a auto charge overnight last night. Same pause this morning, but it started fine. Now the question is, do I consider a warranty claim to replace it, or just accept it.. HHMmmmm |
Panhead_dan
| Posted on Thursday, June 27, 2013 - 09:39 pm: |
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15 amps is too high a charge rate. Use like a 2 amp charger or an automatic charger, that's what I use set on low. I've done everything under the sun to get the bike to start crisply but when it's cold it still has that hesitation when it comes up against the compression stroke sometimes. The trick is to let off the starter button when it hesitates and then hit it again. Let off before it resets all the info on the dash. It has always started at that point with no issues. If it does not work this way for you then you need to clean the ground path. Once through that pain in the butt and you may be interested in my ground mod. I ran a heavy gauge wire from battery ground directly to one of the through bolts on the starter years ago and have not had to go through the ritual cleaning of the ground path since then. |
Sagehawk
| Posted on Saturday, June 29, 2013 - 09:52 pm: |
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Just got thru a motor roll on my 07 12x and I added a couple of extra ground wires and really took paint off at all points, fresh battery, and its amazing that I don't notice any hesitation now starting. Much better as well with some ecmspy work. |
Arcticktm
| Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2013 - 11:59 am: |
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Biff, Like Dan said 15a will fry your poor little cycle battery if you continue to use it. Most smaller batteries ask for <2amps, some even require 1.5 or 1amp max. I finally sprang for an Optimate 4 that goes down to 0.8 amps, IIRC. Check your resting voltage versus the info that came with the battery to decide if you have a problem batter. Charge it and let is rest a few hours first. Then you will know if you should be concerned or not. |
Biffdotorg
| Posted on Tuesday, July 16, 2013 - 10:42 am: |
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Well, I am happy to report back. Turns out you were so right. Putting that little battery on my 15a autocharge pretty much shut down the battery charger right away. (thats my assumption anyway) I put my battery on the trickle autocharge last night, and this morning it started 2 out of 3 times with no hesitation. And the third time was just a slight hesitation. Thanks guys, this is why I love this board. |