Author |
Message |
Thumpthump
| Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2013 - 10:50 pm: |
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Because I hit a deer, I recently had to replace some of the front parts like the headlights and fly screen mount but not the speedometer. I did have everything under the fly screen unplugged during the rebuild but has all been put back together. I don't know it that could have anything to do with my problem. I have ridden the bike 60 mile after doing all the work without any issues then the following happened. Pulled out onto the highway and the bike felt like it was missing. Going down the road applying throttle and it didn't get any better eventually died with the yellow motor light coming on. I ended up trailering it home. I tried starting it multiple times and it never fired. Today I tried it and I believe I heard the pump and it started up a couple of times but later I tried and it doesn't sound the same and it doesn’t start anymore. Currently I don't hear the fuel pump priming anymore so I checked all the fuses and they are all fine. I used a multi meter and have voltage at the fuse. I'm not sure if it's the bank angle sensor, ECM or fuel pump. Any ideas on how I can test to see what the problem is? Any other ideas are welcome. |
Red450
| Posted on Monday, June 24, 2013 - 07:26 am: |
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You said the CEL came on, did you check trouble code? |
Dtaylor
| Posted on Monday, June 24, 2013 - 08:16 am: |
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Check the relays as well, by re-seating as well as swapping a known good one into each location. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, June 24, 2013 - 09:16 am: |
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Then start the hunt, going wire by wire and making sure the readings are what you expect. You can get to a lot of them at the ECM with a paperclip from the back of the connector (still connected to the ECM). A DVM will do a lot, a scope is even better. Also sweep the bars from lock to lock while testing, that could show something intermittent. |
Thumpthump
| Posted on Monday, June 24, 2013 - 11:41 am: |
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I haven't changed or fixed anything on the bike since last night when it wouldn't run but I decided to try when I went into the garage this morning. I turned the key and flipped the switch and I heard the fuel pump so i hit the start button and it ran. Within 2 seconds the CEL light came on but it continued to run, I shut it down because I didn't want to damage anything since I don't know why the light came on. Why is this problem so intermittent?} (Message edited by thumpthump on June 24, 2013) |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, June 24, 2013 - 12:50 pm: |
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At least you have a light. Start there, and pull the code. It might not help, but it sure won't hurt. It gives you someplace to start. |
Thumpthump
| Posted on Monday, June 24, 2013 - 11:13 pm: |
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Checked the codes and here is what I got. 13: Rear O2 sensor always rich or lean or inactive... 33: Fuel Pump Control Voltage too low or too high... Other than a bad fuel pump, what can cause this? 44: Bank Angle Sensor Voltage too low or too high... I think that's because I removed it as part of the trouble shooting and was removed at time of the test. Anyone know what the part number is for an O2 sensor for an 09? What else should I be looking for? (Message edited by thumpthump on June 25, 2013) |
Uly_man
| Posted on Tuesday, June 25, 2013 - 03:24 am: |
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"13: Rear O2 sensor always rich... I didn't know a 09 had a rear O2 sensor." Err yes they all do. The "yellow" light is for the fuel reserve. I would check the spliced Earths inside the cowl loom. All the bikes suffer from this problem at some point and if you have had a front end bash that may be it. It could of course be any number of things. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Tuesday, June 25, 2013 - 08:06 am: |
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It's a good possibility the low voltages are from constantly trying to start it to troubleshoot it, and now you have a dying battery. O2 rich could be a bad sensor. Pull your spark plugs and read them - if the sensor is stuck rich, it will be trying to lean out the mix so your plugs should read white/lean. If that's the case, you have either bad wires or a bad sensor. I second the ground issues, though, especially up front. Keyswitch wiring could cause all of these problems. So could bad grounds. |
Thumpthump
| Posted on Tuesday, June 25, 2013 - 11:28 am: |
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Would a bad BAS cause it to throw the 33: Fuel Pump Control Voltage too low or too high code? |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Tuesday, June 25, 2013 - 11:54 am: |
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AFAIK a bad BAS will just shut off the pump as designed...not throw a code. |
Uly_dude
| Posted on Tuesday, June 25, 2013 - 04:31 pm: |
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with all those different things happening all at once, I'd look into the ECM connectors. |
Blk_uly
| Posted on Thursday, June 27, 2013 - 11:04 am: |
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you have grounding issues that would explain the sudden appearance of multiple codes. |
Thumpthump
| Posted on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 01:31 pm: |
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As a follow up, It seems to be working fine now after I replaced the fuel pump & filter, cost me about $85. Put over a 100 miles on it without issue after fixing it. I hope that's all that was wrong with it. Does anyone know how to clear the trouble codes on an 09? |
Fltwistygirl
| Posted on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 03:30 pm: |
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Thumpthump- This is an excerpt from a very thorough post about trouble codes on my "check engine light on XT" thread: "The only way to clear codes without hooking the bike up to a computer is to take the bike through 50 start and run cycles (start engine, run for at least 30 seconds, shut it off)." Hope it helps. B. |
Thumpthump
| Posted on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 05:24 pm: |
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Thanks, that's what I thought but wanted to see if there was some other way I was missing. |
Froggy
| Posted on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 05:30 pm: |
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You can use TunerPro RT to clear the codes, but honestly it is just easier to ignore them till they clear themselves. |