| Author | Message | ||
     Dmcutter |
This is weird as all get out...the last 3 days that I've ridden my bike, when I get home and in the garage I can't find neutral. I shift into first, kick it back up, back down, up a few, back down a few, and I cannot find neutral and have to use the kill switch. After I do that and turn the ignition back on I can find neutral. It doesn't happen anywhere else-not at work, at the gym, at stop lights, or any other intermediate stop-only in my garage when I get home. WTF? | ||
| Thejosh |
She wants to keep riding | ||
| Griffmeister |
Could be that the problem is just beginning and will become more frequent later. Most of the time it just means that you need to do a full clutch adjustment, not just the cable free play. I'm curious, what do you mean that you have to use the kill switch? This is how you're always supposed to shut the engine off. | ||
| Dmcutter |
I always just put it in neutral and turn off the ignition. Why are you always supposed to use the kill switch? | ||
| Hughlysses |
They teach you to use the kill switch in MSF classes so that if you need to shut the bike off in an emergency (like if you've crashed and the bike's laying on top of you), you don't have to think about it. So you're saying you actually can't find neutral, not that the neutral light just won't come on? (2 different problems). If you're having difficulty finding neutral, I'd go along with Griffmeister's advice to do a "major" and "minor" clutch adjustment. If that doesn't clear it up, check the primary chain adjustment as well. A too-tight or too-loose primary chain can make shifting difficult, especially finding neutral. | ||
| Dmcutter |
I can't definitively say whether it's just the light not coming on or if it isn't finding neutral as I have the clutch in...I suppose I could kick it up from first to where neutral should be and ease out the clutch to see if it wants to move or not. I just find it odd that the only time it has happened is in the garage on the side stand. | ||
| Hughlysses |
If the light's the problem, it's probably a sticking neutral switch. The switch is on the outside of the transmission (I forget exactly where) and can be replaced fairly easily. | ||
| Ratbuell |
If you can't find the physical gear, blip the throttle right when you toe it towards neutral. Hiding neutral can be a sign of clutch adjustment (as noted above) or primary adjustment. Your foot should be able to feel the difference between the "half-click" into neutral and a "full-click" into the next gear. | ||
| Wesman |
My Neutral light has been non-functional for about 2 years. Testing shows its the switch (grounding the plug lead at the switch behind the primary drive pulley lights the dash light). I have a new switch but have been too lazy to install it. I think I have to remove the drive pulley to install it and that looks like a PIA. I've just learned to "feel" neutral. and let the clutch out while holding the front brake to see if the clutch grabs. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
Hughlysses Posted on Saturday, June 22, 2013 - 08:53 am: They teach you to use the kill switch in MSF classes so that if you need to shut the bike off in an emergency (like if you've crashed and the bike's laying on top of you), you don't have to think about it. They teach you that when you buy a new bike too. More riders stranded with dead batteries than you can shake a stick at because of this training. Most, if not all newish bikes have tipover switches that kill the engine if the bike becomes horizontal. There is no need to use the kill switch. There is also no need to teach people to kill the bike every time with the kill switch. If you use the kill switch, it's just a matter of time until you forget the key switch and kill your battery. I hope that when this happens, you will be able to avoid becoming a pedestrian. | ||
| Choyashi |
The kill switch is for emergencies only. And not just for the rider, but the people that run over to help. MSF instructors probably tell you don't wave at other motorcyclists either! Or, never stop and help a fellow biker, you might get raped or mugged! | ||
| Griffmeister |
Maybe other years are different, but it says right in my 08 owners manual to use the kill switch to turn the engine on and off. This is also true when you do the exhaust actuator test. I think someone alluded to a reason somewhere, but I can't remember what it is. Besides that, I think Buell calls it a "run" switch. Think I'll look into that further when I get a chance, must ride tomorrow first.  | ||
| Whisperstealth |
My guess is the primary adjustment. Check yours. I have the same problem. It changes from when the bike is cold to when it is hot. Right now the light comes on when cold/warm. But when it's real hot outside I have to blip the throttle and ease up from first. Court told me about doing it that way and it's worked for years now. The primary adjustment is worse than goldielocks on my bike... | ||
| Wesman |
Thanks Whisper, I'm not the OP but I'm going to try that fix b4 I screw with the N-switch | ||
| Dmcutter |
Thanks for that tip. I will give it a shot, too. | ||
| Dtaylor |
If you do end up having to replace the neutral switch, do not despair. With a bit of grinding, you can modify a socket to remove the switch without removing the pulley. Details of that can be found on BadWeb or on buellxb.com. The switch itself is only $20 if I recall correctly. | ||
| Uly_man |
I have to "backup" my bike into a position (on gravel) to fit all my chains and locks and have the same problem of finding Neutral. Apart from that the gearbox is very smooth. The worst part of a bike gearbox is going from 1st to 2nd and, of course, Neutral is in the middle of this. It could be the primary chain but if your bike changes are normal I would not worry any. Also make sure that your clutch cable is adjusted right. | ||
| Hughlysses |
My guess is the primary adjustment. Check yours. I have the same problem. It changes from when the bike is cold to when it is hot. Right now the light comes on when cold/warm. But when it's real hot outside I have to blip the throttle and ease up from first. Court told me about doing it that way and it's worked for years now. That's a definite indication the primary chain is slightly too tight. After my engine swap, my Uly was fine until the weather got hot and I started having this problem, especially after a long ride. I didn't bother to open the primary chain inspection cover or any of that, I just backed off the primary chain adjuster about 1/4 turn, and it's been fine since. | ||
| Dmcutter |
I finally got a chance to try the throttle blip thing and it worked like a charm. |
