| Author | Message | ||
     Jolly |
2002 S3T...speedo just quit working....I spent a weekend working on the push rod tube leak, then it rained for a week solid and finally get to ride to work and....the speedo quit working...  I pulled the front fairing, unbolted dash, removed rear cup for speedo and checked all wires are tight, nothing loose... moved down to the speedo sensor, it was plugged in at the three wire connector and the bolt to the case was tight. symptoms...speedo light comes on, but speedo needle doesn't move and odometer doesn't register.. every once in a while the needle will jump to a speed, approximate to what I estimate is the correct speed.. (guess)..and then fall back to zero. first thought...bad connection, checked all, all are good. next thought...speedo sensor.. how do I test the speedo sensor without actually buying one as the test? hate to spend the 60.00 or so and then find out that wasn't the problem.... trying to get this thing ready for my first weekend trip on it since buying it...last trip didn't work out because the push rod tube was leaking so badly....now this...yeah obviously a bad speedo isn't the end of the world or even a deal breaker but.... I really am having one of those weeks... | ||
| Sleez |
most likely the speed sensor. i haven't figured out how to bench test one, but it shouldn't be too difficult, i have a known bad one i may try and figure a good way to test. | ||
| Jolly |
Is it the same sensor on a 99x1? I could pull that one and swap if it's the same.... | ||
| Ratbuell |
Pull it and check it visually. Lots of times, they get ganked up with metal shavings (it's a magnetic sensor) from primary chain and gear wear, and just don't read through all the shavings. Pull...clean...reinstall...test ride.  | ||
| Sleez |
build your own; http://linusn.net/projectsWP/?p=72 not sure if the X1 is the same, but should work, at least once! lol p/n ref; 04 Blast; 74431-01B 02 M2; 74431-01 08 XB12X; 74402-05 these are the only manuals i have, but i would imagine the S3 and X1 use the same sensor. i recently took one out of my M2 to use in the Blast, worked fine. cleaning did no good. (Message edited by sleez on June 19, 2013) (Message edited by sleez on June 19, 2013) | ||
| Jolly |
pulled the sensor, inspected, plastic housing not cracked or burred, no metal shavings...cleaned it anyway and re-installed, 11:00 test ride around the block, no change.... speedo lights still come on, digital read-out for odometer still lit, no needle movement or odometer change... I think I am left with its either a bad sensor or the gauge has failed?? this is how Al at American Sport Bike gets all of my money, I NEVER order just one thing...well as long as your shipping me something I need, go ahead and add in...... I like the Pegasus emblem, but I swear it should be a rabbit head .(an angry maniacal rabbit head?).. as in...here I go down the rabbit hole again... | ||
| Gusm2 |
replace the sensor it will be knackered, take new feed from cam position sensor(lower voltage) I'm on my third and hopefully the last one | ||
| Reepicheep |
It is very common to blow a speedo sensor. Fairly chronic problem. Good idea for the cam position sensor feed, or you can put in a cheap home built voltage regulator (or even something scavenged from an old cell phone car charger). I've had mixed results bench testing them without an o-scope. Some good ones test good with a DVM, some good ones test bad with a DVM, and some bad ones test bad with a DVM. | ||
| Hootowl |
Lower voltage, and clean power is the key. Starting with the XB12, Buell moved the voltage source for the sensor from unfiltered 12 volts to 5 volts from the ECM. I don't know for sure, but it seems like all that work Bill put in to finding the cause of the failures, and coming up with the 5v regulator idea, led to this change from the factory. Just my opinion. The timing was right, and at the time, people from Buell lurked on this board. I've not had a failure since adding the regulator. Thanks again, Bill, for the schematic! | ||
| Ltbuell |
...speed sensor...had it happen on my '00 X-1-was riding it, looked down to check speed and ok,several miles down the road-looked down....ops,no mph,but the odometer was lit up,etc.Long story short,replaced speed sensor and back in business.LT | ||
| Jolly |
local shop had a sensor actually in stock, last one..part number 74402-95B. problem fixed. however the sensor I removed had a different part number on it....74431-01B..superceded part number or was it the wrong part number? hmmmm oh well....its fixed! | ||
| Gusm2 |
DO THE WIRING MOD OR IT WILL FAIL AGAIN | ||
| Jolly |
Not sure I understand the modification and what pieces/parts are required..... Is there a link to a full step be step explanation? | ||
| Reepicheep |
I can help. The problem with the stock setup is that the hall effect sensor is a sensitive semiconductor. It was rated for an operating voltage of 3 to 18 volts or something supply voltage. If everything on the bike is working right, it should last forever (though not with much margin). On my M2, and many other bikes, including presumably yours, there are very short transient spikes. So while the average voltage is 13.8 or whatever, there were 20 or 30 volt spikes from time to time. Everything on the bike survived these fine (because they were very short) except for the speedo sensor. Interestingly, the cam position sensor (which is actually on the crank) is also a hall effect sensor. I didn't know that the cam position sensor was on a 5v regulated line from the ECM. But it makes perfect sense. That's why these spikes were killing speedo sensors and not killing the cam position sensor. So if true (and easy to check), Gus is suggesting a perfect solution. No new parts, just a wiring reroute. There are three wires to both the cam position sensor and to the speedo sensor. A V+ line, a ground line, and a signal line. So what you want to do is cut the original V+ line to the speedo sensor and tape it off safely never to be bothered again. The run a tap off of the V+ line to the cam position sensor and run it over to the (new) speedo sensor as the new V+ line. That should be it, everything else should then work (with a new speedo sensor of course). If you don't want to mess with that wire, you can get $10 worth of parts at radio shack to build a 5v filtered regulator. One regulator, two capacitors, and a coil if you want to show off (but that probably isn't necessary). I have a schematic posted in the knowledge vault, but it's also probably on the back of the blister pack for the regulator. You could also repurpose an old cell phone car charger, or anything else that takes a car voltage input and outputs something lower (like 5v or 8v or something). You probably want to look far enough inside it to make sure it actually has a voltage regulator and isn't just a resistor, but nearly all really have a regulator in there. I used the "build a regulator" appraoch, and it worked great, and also has the advantage of being completely non invasive to the rest of the bike (you can make all your mods below the speedo sensor connector, so the moment you unplug it the bike is back to stock. But if it were me again today? I'd take my volt meter and verify what GusM2 said, and just run my V+ from that. | ||
| Reepicheep |
For connectors, i recommend against the "vampire taps" for anything important. I peel the insulation off the source wire (without cutting the conductor) and then wrap the new wire around what is exposed, then solder, and tape, then put a cable tie over the tape to prevent unravelling. After years of justified skepiticism about crimp connectors, I finally found the problem was not the crimp connector, but the crimp connector tool. I now have the crimp tool of the gods (small g). And it made me a believer in crimp connections. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partn umber=360-642 If you have a crimp tool, and it doesn't feel like an effective weapon for a bar fight, you don't have a crimp tool. | ||
| Jolly |
sooo, cut the V+ line feeding the speed sensor, tape off the source (cap it)leaving the v+ line to speed sensor open and then tap the cam position sensor v+ and feed that line to the speed sensor. speed sensor is now receiving v+ in to sensor from the cam sensor v+ line which is cleaner reduced power....strange that I have three buells, ok two that have a digital speedo, and I had no idea that these things were yet another problem area......I agree, I usually solder, and heat shrink, and I recently bought a bunch of the expandable braided heat resistant sleeve like the factory stuff for an extra layer of protection for wiring when I make modifications or changes to wiring. I checked out the link...nice crimps! I also bought the oetiker crimps and tool for the factory style fuel line connectors instead of worm gear clamps. here is an example, though I bought my stuff from somewhere else.. http://www.amazon.com/Techflex-PTN0-50BK50-General -Purpose-Braided/dp/B008K3RE30/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_4 http://www.amazon.com/Oetiker-Style-Single-Clamps- Assortment/dp/B00AMAOU7M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=13 71821709&sr=8-6&keywords=oetiker+crimp+tool http://www.amazon.com/Oetiker-Style-Clamp-pliers-p incers/dp/B004TO0YG8/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=137182 1709&sr=8-9&keywords=oetiker+crimp+tool | ||
| Reepicheep |
Exactly! Very cool clamping setup as well.. |
