| Author | Message | ||
     Yo_barry |
I've got the Factory Service Manual and read about using the Buell specific tools to replace wheel bearings. Naturally, I don't have those tools. How do you mechanics approach this task? What do you use to pull the old bearings? What do you use to press in the new bearings? Or should I invest in the Buell tools? Appreciate your tips, Barry Hollister, CA | ||
| Griffmeister |
Depends on what you can get your hands on and I'm sure more people will chime in here. Whatever you do, gently warm the hub to expand it slightly and this will make the job much easier. I had access to a blind hole bearing puller and an arbor press. Locked the puller in the bearing then used a bar from the opposite side to push the bearing out. Then you can remove the spacer and take the other bearing out easily. Going back in is easy as long as you remember to push on the outer race to avoid bearing damage. This is also where warming the hub really helps as you can practically slide the second bearing right up to the spacer with no excessive force. Many people have made their own installers with threaded rod, nuts and washers. Maybe some of these people will post links or pictures. | ||
| Motorbike |
Yo_barry, are you going with the stock setup or doing the 2010 wheel setup? Here's what I did when I upgraded to the 2010 wheel setup on my 08 XT: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/653516.html?1317306927 Be sure to hit NEXT at the bottom, this is two pages long. | ||
| Al_lighton |
Removing the wheel bearings from an XB Wheel can be very difficult. Many blind bearing pullers can’t get adequate purchase on the inner bearing to provide enough removal force, and even if they can, they can still bugger the spacer tube. I destroyed a HF blind bearing puller trying to remove one set of bearings that were particularly tight. My bearing removal tool is a 1 foot steel rod the same diameter as the axle, a box of un-plated steel washers with an OD that is the same as the axle, all available from Mcmaster Carr for pretty cheap. I support the wheel parallel to the ground at a height that puts the end of the rod halfway through the bearing. I drop the washer onto the end of the rod, clip a ground cable to the steel rod where it touches the ground, and then hit a couple welds to the washer and the inside race of the bearing. Then I use the same rod to press the bearing out. Works great, and there is zero trauma to the bearing spacer end. The bearing is of course toast once you've welded a washer into it. But it was toast anyway, that's not a big deal. I use a press to press them in. Note that there are very specific things that you must do when you press them in. DON'T use a hammer and socket. See here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/625468.html#POST2027177 Al | ||
| Yo_barry |
What I've got is a stock 2009 setup, only 5K+ miles but have a bent axle. The bent axle must be from my accident about a year ago. I grabbed to much front brake to avoid a vehicle coming out of a driveway, went over the handlebars and the Uly followed me, probably doing two flips. Broke the front wheel, mirrors, bent handlebars, taillight, windscreen and jiffy-stand. Missed the vehicle, btw! At any rate couldn't see where the rear tire or swingarm had been hit but my belt was running about 1/8" outside of the rear pulley. When I took the rear wheel off, it was obvious that the axle was bent as it would bind part of the way as it was rotated out. I ordered a new axle. Thought I'd just replace the bearings while I was in there then see how it all looks. The only axle now available is the 3 bearing type but it should work with the 2 bearing wheel. I'm just looking for some tips on remove/replacing the bearings. Barry | ||
| Yo_barry |
I may be calling you Al for the 2010 wheel with bearings installed. You already provided me the replacement front with bearings installed. Barry | ||
| Uly_man |
"Removing the wheel bearings from an XB Wheel can be very difficult. Many blind bearing pullers can’t get adequate purchase on the inner bearing to provide enough removal force, and even if they can, they can still bugger the spacer tube." Yes I can vouch for that one. What a pain. I do not know who designed this way of doing it but it is rubbish to say the least and little or no thought was put into how they would be removed at a latter date for servicing. AND they put the bearings in "dry" as well? Steel on alloy will cause corrosion even on the "interference" fit of these bearings. It is, of course, a very tiny amount in this case but it can be enough to make the job a lot harder than it needs to be. | ||
| Djohnk |
Like said above make sure you use heat on the wheel hub before you try to remove the bearings. Here's the blind bearing puller several have used including myself. | ||
| Yo_barry |
Thanks for all your suggestions. I ordered a 2010 wheel with the bearings pressed in from American Sport Bike. Looking at the pictures posted on Motorbike's link convinced me that this is the direction I want to go. Barry | ||
| Motorbike |
Good move, Yo_barry. Better wheel design and bearings professionally installed. Doesn't get much better than that. Just be sure to use the proper torque procedure when you install that new wheel on the bike. Even the new 3 bearing setup can be damaged by over-tourquing the axle. Take care. | ||
| Rdkingryder |
I did this not too long ago. Got a blind puller from Autozone for free. I left the wheel in the sun and froze the new bearings overnight. Used the puller on one side and easily pulled the bearing and the spacer out. Then the other side was even easier. Took very little effort to install the new bearings.    | ||
| Arcticktm |
Barry, I think you made the right call long term. I replaced my '06 ones early on. Could not get them out with the harbor freight puller, so took that collet to a small shop and he used it to remove and install a new set with a proper press. Forward to 28k miles and my second rear set (SKF) was showing signs of death. finally gave in and order up a new wheel/bearings/axle assembly from Al at American Sport Bike. Not cheap, but also not expensive considering what you are buying. replacement wheels alone for my BMW would easily cost more than double what I paid for the rear wheel and bearing install from Al. New design inspires much more confidence, as well. | ||
| Imotopilot |
Rdkingryder, both came out in 1/2 beer using your method. If could add, make sure the "tines" of the puller are tight and locked onto the inner race of the bearing you're pulling. Thank you amigo! (Message edited by imotopilot on July 29, 2016) | ||
| Rdkingryder |
You're welcomed, glad I could help |
