| Author | Message | ||
     General_tso |
I was cleaning the air filter on my Track Bike and observed quite a bit of oil on the filter that I'm assuming is coming from the Crankcase vents. While I had the air filter off I visually inspected the intake valves and noticed that the front cylinder valves were clean but the rear cylinder valves had some deposits on them with the right valve having more than the left. Coincidentally, the right rear of the air filter had the most visible concentration of what I'm assuming is engine oil. Have any of you observed this? Begs the question; Should I reroute the vents to a catch can and plug the airbox? What says the beeb? | ||
| Jdugger |
I don't, but I run slightly less oil level and change it more often. With a filter and screen change, I run 2.7-2.8 quarts. I've not found oil checks on these bikes to be much of a reliable indicator. I prefer the when-in-doubt-change-it-out approach. As cheap as clean oil is, might as well change it every few hours of track time. | ||
| Nillaice |
if your catch can leaks or overflows that could spell disaster. there should be a little plasticy sponge filter media cube held captive where the air box and breather hose connect. check to see if that is still there. maybe flip the filter around and put the fresh side towards the back ? you dont' need the air box cover anyway, so leave it off to make checking the breather/filter easier... and how much oil are we talkin' here? | ||
| Stevenfrye |
you might want to relocate your vent and install a baffle. | ||
| General_tso |
I wouldn't say it was a lot of oil but I'm concerned about the deposit on the valve. The sponge filter is in place. I think I'll reduce the oil level to the min indicated and see if this helps. | ||
| Jdugger |
Just remember less oil means it gets dirty faster. Change it when it changes color or the transmission isn't perfectly silky. | ||
| Jgarner99 |
maybe flip the filter around and put the fresh side towards the back ?>> Unless the filter has never been used, don't EVER "flip it around." One of the most important things your air filter does is capture tiny airborne particles that are very abrasive to the top end (silica, if I remember correctly). Said particles are captured and held on the face of the filter by suction. Turn the filter around and that same intake suction will pull all the bad stuff right down into your engine. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
Nillaice, you don't need the airbox cover?? Not true according to what I've read. If I recall correctly, at least a few Badwebbers have tried running with the airbox cover removed and have had a notable loss in power and decline in overall rideability. Also, I would be wary of running less oil. I give my '08 3 full quarts every time I do an oil and filter change. If I give it much less than 3 quarts (say around the recommended level--2.7 if I recall), the oil light will flash briefly under moderately hard braking. That suggests to me that the oil pump is starving for oil under braking. Once I started using 3 full quarts, the problem hasn't returned. I also don't have any of the typical overfilled oil problems, like oil coming out the breather. | ||
| Nillaice |
The outer air box cover is not necessary. It's just cosmetic. I'm talkin about the one that is the pretty color and has Buell decals on it, held in place by 4 t-30 bolts. The top half of the air box is part of the ram air pressure boundary and is functional in the harmonics of the airbox. I am not advising to run with out the upper half of the air box No, you do not need the air box cover, but you need the air box intact. Sorry for causing confusion | ||
| Clutchreaper |
Is the filter saturated with oil? You can wash it with dish soap and water, and make sure it is completely dry. See if does a better job of catching the oil residue/vapors. | ||
| General_tso |
I followed Dugger's suggestion and reduced the oil level slightly. I'll check the filter later this week and will post the results. Appreciate all the feedback |
