| Author | Message | ||
     Sprintst |
I replaced a leaky clutch housing gasket, and did a valve check while I was in there. Do to some unforseen issues, I had to replace one of the rear cylinder cams and the cam holder bracket as well. I indexed the cams per the photo in the shop manual, I used the crank case locking tool, locking the rear cylinder at TDC, and used the EBR cam indexing tool to set the timing (though there is a slight bit of play with that tool) When I restarted it with the EBR race computer, I didn't have everything attached and installed, I just wanted to make sure it would start before I rotated the engine fully in place and bolted everything together. It started, and I shut it down. I put it all back together, and fired it up. It ran extremely rough, I could see the front cylinder misfiring through the throttlebody (didn't have the airbox on) I was pulling a lot of codes, and didn't run it long. After some thought, I put the stock ECM in. It fired up and ran pretty well, until it warmed up, then it would misfire and sputter, then pull codes. I've ran it several times, fully warmed it up, and it is getting better everytime, but I probably haven't done a full 10 minutes to do the reset on the IAC (?) yet. Each time it seems to run longer and better, but eventually pops a check engine and pulls codes. The last run had a U0001 Comm Error, P0506 IAC error, and a P0193 error. I believe the IAC error is the only relevant one here.
Thanks for the help in advance! I have to get this back on the road, my state inspection is past due, and I'm chomping to get out riding again. (Message edited by sprintst on May 28, 2013) | ||
| Sprintst |
tried to ride it, very low on power, stumbling and burping afterwards, pulled a P0134 FRT error too | ||
| Phlegm |
This usually happens to me too after reassembling. I always have a bad connection somewhere. | ||
| Samcol |
i'm having trouble with low rpm stumbling and stalling too after replacing motor. i've put about 300 miles on the bike since getting it back together. it *seemed* to do it less this last ride i did. hopefully the ecm is figuring it out. | ||
| Zac4mac |
"I used the crank case locking tool, locking the rear cylinder at TDC, and used the EBR cam indexing tool to set the timing" Paul - sure you had the right nick with the crank locker? there are 2. <edit> this motor is smooth as an I-4 when running right... (Message edited by zac4mac on May 29, 2013) | ||
| Sprintst |
Well one notch is for the front cylinder TDC, and the other is for the rear, right? I definitely had the rear cylinder at TDC, as indicated by a rod I put down the sparkplug hole | ||
| Zac4mac |
I know there are a few errors in the FSM. not many but... At this point I'd e-mail tech@ebracing.com Z | ||
| Rodrob |
Yes there are two notches, but - Did you put the front at TDC compression then rotate the crank 288 deg CCW (360 - 72) to find the second notch? If not you could be 360 deg out on the rear valves. | ||
| Sprintst |
the FRT 02 sensors are both reading 0.4 v idling, so they appear to be working. Ugh, still pulls codes when it warms up No response from EBR | ||
| Sprintst |
Guys, I really need some help here. Rodrob - I don't see how I could be out of sync. There are 2 notches to locks the crank - one for the front TDC, one for the rear. I am 100% certain the rear was at TDC when I found the notch and locked the crank. How can you be 360 degrees out? That is right back where you started. You've lost me on this. It seems pretty good until it hits over 170 F, the fans kick on, then it pulls the codes. EBR responded, they were mostly concerned with the comm error, thought it might be the main engine harness connector. I reseated that, but can't inspect to see if any wires got dislodged without doing the whole engine rotation again, for like the 5th time. Getting ready to just sell this thing, but then I can't replace it with anything. I'm really missing riding, and the plates expired so I can't go get an inspection to renew it even Help!! | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Sprint....Cams travel 1/2 the rotation of the crank...( here's a link to a car engine with (1) cam http://www.iskycams.com/degreeing.php the total Cam degrees add up to 720 degrees of crankshaft rotation (2 x 360)...or it takes 2 full crank rotations to make the cam rotate 1 full rotation...and in a 4 stroke engine it takes those 2 rotations to make a complete cycle (intake, compression, power, exhaust) the Buell has 2 pistons and four cams...each set of cams must be synch'd or timed with each piston AND with each other (intake and exhaust cams) AND the ignition/injector timing...it sounds like you have lost the ign/inj timing (the front cylinder is using the rear cylinder's ign/inj timing?) not that it moved (it's keyed to the crank...but you may have timed the (rear) cams to the incorrect TDC. Note Rob's comment...Front Cylinder at TDC ( on the power stroke...all valves are closed...then Counter Clockwise 288 degrees for the rear cylinder...you have to turn the engine backwards in order to get all the "events" to "line up" the "key" is starting with the front cylinder at TDC on the Compression stroke ....hope this helps (Message edited by nuts4mc on June 15, 2013) | ||
| Ak_addict |
I definitely had the rear cylinder at TDC, as indicated by a rod I put down the sparkplug hole. Nuts4mc is correct is your rear cylinder TDC of the compression or exhaust stroke??? (Message edited by AK Addict on June 16, 2013) | ||
| Sprintst |
Is there a way to check this without pull it all apart again? | ||
| Nuts4mc |
looking at the shop manual - no...there are no timing marks on the "flywheel/rotor" to tell you where the two TDCs are for each cylinder - you have to use the locking tool. If you try the "Primitive Pete" method and just change the rear cam timing 180 degrees - you'll be taking a big chance that the valves and pistons in the rear cylinder could be/will be having intercourse....and no guarantee that the ign/inj timing is correct. wait for the weather to cool down - take a friday or monday off of work and make it a long week end project | ||
| Sprintst |
Well the bike runs, and idles well until it gets up over 170 degrees Hence I'm wondering if it's even possible for me to have the timing off. I know I have a comm error, probably from dropping the engine too far and pulling on the harness | ||
| Sprintst |
Okay, props rodrob and nuts4mc - took her apart yesterday and it was out sync. I don't have it together yet to spin it and be sure nothing hits, but following the procedure you guys detailed I am switching the cams on the rear cylinder. If you guys read this, just to triple check when you say spin the engine counterclockwise, that is when you are on the left of the bike, facing the stator, you spin the nut in the access hole counterclockwise Now if I can find the damn shim I'm missing....... I'm amazed how well it ran for being off 288 degrees. FYI (Message edited by sprintst on July 30, 2013) | ||
| Nuts4mc |
"If you guys read this, just to triple check when you say spin the engine counterclockwise, that is when you are on the left of the bike, facing the stator, you spin the nut in the access hole counterclockwise" ...yes, but first find TDC (on the compression stroke) of the FRONT cylinder ( per manual pg 3-34, (Fig 3-56) the cam lobes (Front Cylinder)should be pointing to the front of the engine)- THEN rotate the engine CCW 288 degrees use the locking tool to positively keep the engine at TDC...from the manual - there is a pix on page 3-34 (fig 3-58) showing the rear cylinder's cam lobes pointing to the rear of the engine..it is most important to make sure the FRONT cylinder is at TDC on the COMPRESSION STROKE ( Cam lobes point forward) BEFORE the 288 deg.s CCW and then correctly time the rear cylinder's cams. good luck with the shim hunt - zac4mac has posted a pix of where he found his...scroll down: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/717417.html?1375181012 "I'm amazed how well it ran for being off 288 degrees. FYI" ...the correctly timed cylinder (the front) was doing all the work - the rear cylinder was just an air compressor that made the front cylinder work harder and get hot. take your "time" and hope it works out for you...wishing you the best of luck! |
