| Author |
Message |
    
Wileyxb12x
| | Posted on Sunday, April 21, 2013 - 04:10 pm: | 
|
Yesterday I changed the oil and filter and transmission lubricant and gave the bike a bath. I took it for a spin to see how everything was and it was fine for about 10 minutes, then the idle started running high, like 2k rpms sitting at a stoplight, shaking the shit out of my arms.
A couple miles later I pulled into a grocery store to get some stuff and the bike just died, engine quit, but still had power. I coasted to a parking spot.
It started up fine but had a check engine light. I brought it home and ran the codes - 11, 16 and 21.
16 is probably left over from the battery going dead on me and having to put a new one in, possibly.
No idea for 11 and 21.
Today I went to start it, started fine, no CEL, rolled on the throttle a little and it died. Start it again, roll the throttle, died. Start it again, let it sit, died. Start it again, roll the throttle, died accompanied by a little bit of gray/black smoke coming from the air box.
I have a breather mod, extra lighting, and the CIA airbox cover, but none are recent enough to cause any of my problems today.
(Message edited by WileyXB12X on April 21, 2013) |
Husky
| | Posted on Monday, April 22, 2013 - 03:38 pm: |
|
11 is throttle position sensor, and 21 is exhaust valve actuator(on the muffler).
Husky |
Akbuell
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2013 - 01:29 pm: |
|
In general, a high or hanging idle is a symptom of a lean mixture. A bike that will start and idle, but dies as soon as throttle is applied is again a lean situation.
However since this came on all at once, I would suspect a sensor issue; the ECU is getting 'corrupted' information.
On my X-1, such running issues with multiple trouble codes is very often a bad Engine Temp Sensor. They can go wonky or shift calibration without showing a trouble code. Many thanks to Al at American Sport Bike for that insight.
Could be a possibility. Hope this helps, Dave |
Jeffroj
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2013 - 01:48 pm: |
|
Reset TPS and check for an intake leak to start. The exhaust cable will not cause the issue you are having, but open the housing and check the gears and make sure everything is working good there, then check the cable, it could be frayed at the exhaust side. |
Wileyxb12x
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2013 - 05:13 pm: |
|
Thanks. A cracked ECM is one of my suspicions, as I've seen that on many threads. There are small cracks when pressure is applied, so moisture may have gotten in there - but you'd think it would dry out eventually.
I don't have the ability to do the TPS reset without hitting the dealership. It may be time to get ECMspy so I can do it myself.
How do I check for an intake leak? |
Andersonhdj
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2013 - 04:35 am: |
|
If you suspect moisture, remove and place in the sun to bake for a bit, or the domestic oven set at 40 Deg C/104 Deg F, alternatively a hairdrier.
At that temp it's unlikely to hurt anything as solder melts at higher temp and most electronic components carry a much higher temp rating - 70 deg C plus.
The domestic oven plot works the best though, because a constant, consistent temperature is applied to the entire unit.
(Message edited by andersonhdj on April 24, 2013) |
Wileyxb12x
| | Posted on Saturday, April 27, 2013 - 07:47 am: |
|
I checked the new oil and it had water in it, so I flushed that out with some cheap out and refilled it. Ruined the gasket on the oil plug in the process... damn.
I checked the interactive exhaust servo using the service manual (open throttle all the way, turn kill switch on, turn on key - resets servo and you can check for full range of motion). It barely moved. I opened up the housing and it's indeed broken. So there's one problem.
ECM is intact. The cracks I saw are along the side where the plugs come in, nothing that seems concerning.
So engine temp sensor and TPS reset... Anybody in the Baltimore area willing to drop by and do a TPS reset? Standard trade fees will be provided - beer and food.
HA! |
Wileyxb12x
| | Posted on Saturday, April 27, 2013 - 09:27 am: |
|
akbuell: On my X-1, such running issues with multiple trouble codes is very often a bad Engine Temp Sensor. They can go wonky or shift calibration without showing a trouble code. Many thanks to Al at American Sport Bike for that insight.
Is there a way to troubleshoot the temp sensor short of finding a known good and replacing it? |
Akbuell
| | Posted on Saturday, April 27, 2013 - 11:23 am: |
|
The ETS can be tested on the bench, but ...
The service manual lists a range of ohms vs temps. At 32F, the resistance should be 134,200 ohms. At 185F, the resistance should be 4991 ohms, and so on. Plus, the value can be plus/minus 20% of the listed value and still be in spec.
So, without a way to accurately set temps, and measure the resistance values, finding a known good one, or a new one, is going to be easier, IMHO.
Hope this helps, Dave |
Wileyxb12x
| | Posted on Sunday, April 28, 2013 - 09:33 am: |
|
Thanks Dave.
I've ordered ECMspy so I can run the diagnostics that way. I've flushed and replaced the fuel with no improvement.
I found a video of a guy with a similar looking problem who ended up having a faulty TPS.
Right now my plan of attack is diagnostic and TPS reset when I get ECMspy then go from there. If that doesn't help, I'll replace the TPS and engine temp sensor.
If that doesn't help, then I figure it may be the timing, which may be over my head and I'll have to take it in. |
|
Troubleshooting (Poor Starting/Running/Handling/Ride Issues) »
Archive through August 17, 2013 »
06 XB12X Dies when throttle applied