| Author | Message | ||
     Mikeyp |
Typical symptoms, bike wont crank over. I have a fairly new battery that is 6 months old. Here is the weird part. I tested contunity from each port coming from the stator to ground, and it tested no contunity. When i tested from port to port, it tested for contunity. Ohms from port to port read .5 ohms. Manual says that if i had a bad stator, it would read below .2 -.4 ohms. So...since i tested from port to port, and got continuity, does that mean my stator is bad? Im not below the .2 - .4 ohms, and thats where im getting confused. Is the stator bad even though i measure .5 ohms, but have continuity between the two ports? I have yet to check my voltage regulator, as it was too late to run my bike. I plan on checking it tomorrow. Tia | ||
| 01x1buell |
did you load test the battery, i had the same issue and the battery was only 6 months old as well. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Do the running check for V. Are you doing this per the manual? As in, manual on the bench next to the bike as you test? The no-continuity-to-ground shows you don't have a short to ground (good thing). The low-continuity-between-legs (what you call "ports") is normal - there is minor continuity between legs, or wraps, but it is limited. 0 ohms would be a dead short between legs - not good. Resistance readings can be varied, and can have different results based on corrosion in the plug where you're sticking your probe, etc. Check running voltages. And if you want the easiest check...pull your clutch cover off and sniff. If your stator is bad...you'll smell it. Trust me. Oh, and get one of these: http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/16076.html That way you'll know at a glance, as you're riding, whether you're charging properly. I have one on every bike. | ||
| Mikeyp |
I'm going to bring the battery to Pep Boys and have them load test it later today when i get done with work. I plan on doing the running Voltage test too. And i am doing the testing as per the manual. Thanks for the link for the volt meter. Not sure where i would mount it on my S1w though. I'll fill you in with my progress. | ||
| Harleyelf |
If you can get it started, check AC voltage output between those stator leads. It should be 16 - 28 volts at idle, going up to 54 or so at 3000 rpm. If you have the AC current flow and still don't have 14 VDC at the battery leads, it is your regulator, not the stator. | ||
| Thejosh |
+1 Harleyelf, my $ is on the VR. | ||
| Harleyelf |
The output wire from the VR comes loose pretty often; be sure it is fully installed before you rush out and buy a new one. You're an electrician; did you torque the battery terminals properly? Loose wires and cables are the cause of most charging issues. | ||
| Snowbees |
have you checked the starter solenoid contact ring for wear/pitting. (Message edited by snowbees on April 09, 2013) | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Mike, what the elf said... Check the AC output of the stator at the regulator plug. This will tell you which half of the charging circuit is suspect. Make sure you have a good ground on the regulator. There should be a star washer under the mounting bolt(s) to bite through the paint. | ||
| Mikeyp |
Ok, so here is the latest. The stator and voltage regulator tested out good. Brought battery to be load tested, and they still have it at Batteries Plus. Will find out tomorrow if its good or not. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
I can't begin to tell you how many bad(new) batteries we had that came from Batteries Plus.Several were less than a month old. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Bolt a known good car battery up with good battery cables, not jumpers. The excess capacity will not harm your bike. If it starts and shows 14.2 volts across the terminals while running, get a good battery from another shop. I've had good results with Interstate. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
I have to agree with Cyclone Charlie. I've gotten 3 bad batteries from Batteries Plus.. Actually they were for a friends bike. Finally bit the bullet and went with a stock HD unit. | ||
| Mikeyp |
Here is where we stand. Battery was load tested, and it's good. I ran the bike again and took voltage readings from the stator, and they check out fine. While bike was running (5 min max), the connection from the VR to the stator got stupid hot. Im shut bike down, waited for it to cool, and disconnected it. Any reason as to why the connector got so damn hot? I checked all connections, and they are clean and tight. Would a faulty VR make that happen? | ||
| Harleyelf |
Yes. It could also be a short to ground in the output wire from the VR. Disconnect it and check resistance to ground. There might also be a problem with the fusebox. | ||
| Coxster |
Guys I used to work for Case/New Holland in the electrical reman division. The best batteries I have ever ever seen ( based on tons of ABUSE ) is Exide. Had good luck with Interstates too, but the CNH brand batteries were re-labeled Exide so that's what we used the most of. The H-D forums say the OEM battery ( got 7 years out of my Dyna OEM battery ) are made in PA by East Penn Mfg. Lotsa solid info in the above posts too | ||
| Mikeyp |
Found this and thought i would share. http://www.wildwestcycle.com/f_charge.html Pretty sure my VR is shot. Ordering a new one today. | ||
| Mikeyp |
Just wanted opinions. Would you buy this voltage regulator? http://www.jpcycles.com/product/380-485 (Message edited by mikeyp on April 16, 2013) | ||
| Harleyelf |
That'll work fine as long as you have a two-pin connection from stator to regulator. Looks like a good deal on the primary cover gasket, too. | ||
| Jramsey |
Would you buy this voltage regulator? It will work fine,but you have to change to a bullet type connector on the 12V output wire. Put one my S3 last year.} | ||
| Mikeyp |
Thanks for the info guys. My Bike has the two pin connection from the ststor. |
