| Author | Message | ||
     Buellrobot |
If my static timing appeared to be off, can I use ecmspy to register the 0/5 volt transition, OR do I need to get a multimeter and do what this image shows?  Here's the longer version of the story – I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong: Last night I tried to ensure my static timing was correct (using the ecmspy tuning guide instructions) and it looked like the timing was advanced by a decent amount. I was finding TDC by putting my finger on the spark plug hole of the front cylinder and waiting for the air to just stop pushing out, at the point the vertical timing mark was nearly visible in the window (when ecmspy was registering the 0/5 CPS transition). The line was well left of TDC, so I figured it was off and I'd need to adjust. I drilled off the cam cover and then loosened the screws holding the CPS plate tight – I moved the wheel slightly forward, until the mark was at TDC. Then I rotated the CPS plate until the 0/5 transition took place right at the spot that TDC was lined up. When I went to fire up the bike it turned over once and then did a series of smaller thunks that didn't sound any good. I most likely set the static timing wrong, although the other possibility is that I have a kink in the fuel line (I moved the fuel filter to a new spot). I'm going to try putting the fuel filter back where it was before, but this definitely seems like a timing issue, and unless I need to follow the diagram at the top (and NOT use ecmspy), then I'm not sure what to do. Thanks in advance! | ||
| Pash |
You were probably on the wrong stroke, IIRC you should be on front cylinder compression, you may have been on front cylinder exhaust. You can do it without ECMSpy, get the point of fuel pump triggering with the line in the middle. | ||
| Buellrobot |
@Pash, you are probably right. Thanks for the suggestion. Is there an easy way to know which of the strokes you're on? The manual says to look at the valves through the spark plug hole (I can't see much on the front) OR to feel the air ceasing to push out. How do I know if I'm on exhaust or compression stroke? Also, does anyone know if it's particularly damaging for the engine to be turned over when the timing is off? It doesn't sound pretty.  | ||
| Pash |
It won't have done any harm on a low load condition. To find TDC comp front, take the rear plug out but leave the front in, that way it will be very difficult to turn when you on the stroke you want. | ||
| Harleyelf |
There are two TDC marks on the flywheel. The rear mark appears first, then the front mark. | ||
| Buellrobot |
@Pash I'll try that – and glad to know I'm not doing damage @Harleyelf I see a few different types of marking – some dots (1 dot and 2 dots) and a line (although it could be two lines, since they'd be indistinguishable). | ||
| Harleyelf |
There's always the Flintstone's method - pull the plug and insert a plastic soda straw. Rotate the engine until you feel the piston crown moving up with the straw. When it stops moving up, that's the correct mark. | ||
| Kalali |
So what problem were you trying to solve? Why are you messing with the static timing in the first place? | ||
| Buellrobot |
@kalali I'm attempting to tune with ecmspy and tunerpro... my x1 has always been a little rougher and less responsive than the other x1 I've ridden extensively. All the tuning guides recommend tps reset and checking static timing (I thought my timing was off, although I'm obviously new to this). | ||
| Buellrobot |
I'm still stumped... I've restored the fuel lines to their original configuration, reset the static timing (I think I've got it right this time, hopefully) and now when I tried starting the bike, at first it would turn over a few times and then do a rapid fire clicking (starter? injectors?). Then it eventually wouldn't turn over and was just clicking. I've recorded a quick video of the behavior. You'll hear the fuel pump prime, after I turn the key, and then the clicking when I hit the starter: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xkk_R2Cx2Go | ||
| Pash |
Not seen the video but it sounds like a flat battery.... | ||
| Jramsey |
I've recorded a quick video of the behavior. Battery needs a charge or replacement for sure. } | ||
| Kalali |
Static timing rarely goes out of adjustment without external intervention. Your (original) symptoms suggest poor fuel map or marginal sensor or leaking seal/gasket. You now need to charge/replace the battery before you damage the starter or spike the ECM. | ||
| Buellistic |
You have to remember that if the timing is "WORNG" from the FACTORY and never checked, it will always be wrong !!! | ||
| Harleyelf |
The cam position sensor may have failed. They can give unwanted extra sparks which seem to be badly timed. | ||
| Buellrobot |
I dropped the battery off at auto zone to get it charged and will grab it tomorrow and see if that helps. Can't wait to start riding, now that the weather's getting good here in NY. | ||
| Ratman |
Seems out of whack static timing on Uly's is pretty typical,not sure about other Buells. My 06 Uly has a year old battery,left hooked up to spyware not running while setting the TPS etc with the key/ign on and headlight fuse still in, it will drain my battery enough to wipe out the clock and trip meter when I go to start it. I keep it plugged into life support when not riding it. | ||
| Buellrobot |
Recharging the battery seemed to do the trick – I was able to fire up the bike and get it to idle for a bit. It has been a while since I've heard the damn thing run, but I think it sounded about right (although something has always sounded kinda like a rattle – fuel injectors, maybe?). I'll reset TPS and then check for intake leaks, and then be ready to do some spring tuning. On a related note, is it generally considered safe to use propane to check for intake leaks? Thanks again for everyone's help and advice. |
