Author |
Message |
Lostsurfer1771
| Posted on Wednesday, March 20, 2013 - 10:19 am: |
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Toward the end of the season last year I noticed it is very difficult to downshift from high gears at low speeds, which I normally only do after hard braking. And by difficult I mean I had to hit the shifter so hard, in the middle of a busy intersection, that the peg actually slid down and I couldn't adjust it without loosening it. I'd like to fix it before it starts getting nice out again, so any help is appreciated. |
Dakatak87
| Posted on Wednesday, March 20, 2013 - 01:18 pm: |
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It sounds like you have the same problem I have. I tried the adjust the shifter sprawl but that does not seem to have fixed it. I have come to believe that my 4/5th shift fork may be bent. I have yet to have the time and place to crack the case and see the transmission. The easier thing to check first is the shifter sprawl. |
Swampy
| Posted on Thursday, March 21, 2013 - 09:21 pm: |
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This is how I would start. 1. Adjust the primary chain tension, I would adjust it by the sound method. 2. adjust the clutch, get lots of slack in the clutch cable, do the internal adjustment(look in the primary case while doing this and check to see if the fluid level is to the bottom of the clutch plates) then adjust the cable length so you have the proper free play in the lever. If that does not work, do the shifter pawl adjustment along with all of the extra mods that need to be done while you are in there like Shift drum pin fitting, chamfer the edge of the plate that holds the stator wires in place and glue the wires down. Then put it all back together with a full synthetic 20W-50 oil and readjust the primary chain first and then the clutch. Good luck, it only takes a couple of hours to do all the work even if you work slow. Now to think of it I don't remember if you need to take the clutch and crank sprocket off...if that is the case you need a 200 ft lb torque wrench and the locking tool which can easily be made from some steel stock from Home Depot Good luck, let us know how it turns out |
Lostsurfer1771
| Posted on Friday, March 22, 2013 - 05:06 pm: |
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Thanks I'll give it a shot |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, March 22, 2013 - 09:28 pm: |
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Adjust clutch first then primary - lol EZ |
Swampy
| Posted on Friday, March 22, 2013 - 10:56 pm: |
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Here is my thinking on adjusting the primary first... If the primary is set too tight or too loose it could affect the clutch adjustment because if the primary is too tight the clutch basket can deflect out of parallel from the clutch hub mounted on the input shaft making the clutch drag. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, March 23, 2013 - 02:45 am: |
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I see too tight, but too loose? EZ |
Swampy
| Posted on Saturday, March 23, 2013 - 09:32 pm: |
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too loose? No... LOL! Look man, gimme a break, it has been a long cold winter, I sold the house and I am moving in with my dear dear mother-in-law, she is coming home Sunday and I am missing my garage really bad already. |
Lostsurfer1771
| Posted on Sunday, March 24, 2013 - 12:03 pm: |
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ok so clutch then primary then? |
Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, March 25, 2013 - 12:31 am: |
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Swampy is the man but the snow got to him - lol - clutch then primary. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on March 25, 2013) |
Lostsurfer1771
| Posted on Monday, March 25, 2013 - 08:36 am: |
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OK thanks |
Lostsurfer1771
| Posted on Monday, April 08, 2013 - 01:01 pm: |
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Can the I do the clutch adjustment with the wheel on the ground or do I have to lift it? manual says lift it but there is a buellxb youtube video with the tire on the ground. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcXJhA1j-ao (Message edited by Lostsurfer1771 on April 08, 2013) |
Swampy
| Posted on Monday, April 08, 2013 - 10:51 pm: |
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you can adjust it on the graound |
Ezblast
| Posted on Tuesday, April 09, 2013 - 12:59 am: |
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Lostsurfer1771
| Posted on Tuesday, April 09, 2013 - 10:13 pm: |
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Thanks Guys |
Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, April 10, 2013 - 02:48 am: |
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check your drum pin length as well. EZ |
Lostsurfer1771
| Posted on Wednesday, April 10, 2013 - 10:07 am: |
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That looks like quite a process for a newbie mechanic, should I see if the clutch adjustment works before I venture into taking the transmission apart? Or should I just nut up and do it all? |
Valhalha30
| Posted on Wednesday, April 10, 2013 - 11:30 am: |
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I have a weird issue when shifting from 2nd to 3rd..... sometimes the 3rd gear engages on time, but sometimes there is a "false neutral" that it enters before it engages into 3rd gear.... I am not sure if it's because I'm not shifting at the proper RPM's, or if the 2nd/3rd shift fork is sticking somehow. The other gears work smoothly, and I just changed the fluids in the tranny last spring with full synthetic 20w-50 (same stuff in my engine block lol) I never really saw it as a big issue, but since we're on a similar topic, I thought I might as well bring it up and see what can be done about it. I heard shooting WD-40 down the clutch cable could help, but I think this requires a more involved fix The clutch feels strong, so I don't think it's a clutch issue..... should I also adjust my primary chain? And how do you tell when it's at the right adjustment just by how it sounds? |
Swampy
| Posted on Wednesday, April 10, 2013 - 10:12 pm: |
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Lostsurfer1771, If you have a manual you can probably muddle through it. Loosen the clutch cable(make it shorter) Remove the clutch adjustment cover and make the adjustment, if I remember correctly turn all the way in and loosen 1/4 turn. Then adjust the clutch cable so you have a nickle width freeplay at the lever. Valhalha30, you probably need to make the shift pawl adjustment. While you are in there make ALL of the recommended upgrades while you are in there! Glue the stator wires inplace under the protector cover, shift pall pin length and glue the bitches in the shift drum, make that shift pawl adjustment and you should be amazed at how much better the Blast will shift! |
Lostsurfer1771
| Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2013 - 10:25 am: |
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I meant for checking the drum pin length, I think I can handle the clutch adjustment. Now i just have to get a new wrench set because my old one disappeared from my garage |
Swampy
| Posted on Saturday, April 13, 2013 - 04:48 pm: |
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Wrench Set?! I am up at the lake to open up and went to make coffee and the damn thing is missing! Someone took the keys from their hiding place and the wife found one of the doors unlocked and some "stuff" splashed on one of the walls? The pin length will keep the shift drum star wheel in parallel with the shift drum so it is a good thing to do. |
Valhalha30
| Posted on Monday, April 15, 2013 - 11:47 am: |
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"Valhalha30, you probably need to make the shift pawl adjustment. While you are in there make ALL of the recommended upgrades while you are in there! Glue the stator wires inplace under the protector cover, shift pall pin length and glue the bitches in the shift drum, make that shift pawl adjustment and you should be amazed at how much better the Blast will shift!" WELL...... this sounds fun -sarcasm- As much as I want better shifting... I don't trust my own mechanical skills to do all of the upgrades..... I'll adjust the shift pawl (I don't even know what that is..... sadly) and that's all I'll do xD |
Swampy
| Posted on Monday, April 15, 2013 - 10:01 pm: |
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Yeah....well....you are going to need at least a 200 ft lb torque wrench and a locking tool to remove/install the primary chain. Find yourself a maintenance manual and go through that part to see if you can do it. |
Swampy
| Posted on Monday, April 15, 2013 - 10:03 pm: |
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Valhalla, Tell me a little about yourself... your profile says you are a student in Pittsburg...I have a sister in law that is some sort of professor that teaches nuclear physics or something like that. |
Valhalha30
| Posted on Wednesday, April 17, 2013 - 11:10 am: |
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I just graduated from High school last year, took a year off from being a full-time student lol, and I'm probably heading off to college either this fall, winter, or next spring or next fall..... depends how soon I can get my crap together xD Your sister in law probably teaches in one of the universities around here... more than likely Carnegie Mellon, idk for sure though. Are those tools inexpensive/easy to come by? I'll also need EVERY manual made for the bike, I was given nothing when I got the bike, which makes everything that much harder to track down and fix. |
Swampy
| Posted on Wednesday, April 17, 2013 - 09:31 pm: |
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The most expensive tool is probably the torque wrench that goes to 200 lbs. The locking tool is something you can make out of 2" wide steel stock cut the the proper length(I can go measure the one I have) Other than that just the normal assortment of hand tools, gaskets, oil and locktite. |
Valhalha30
| Posted on Friday, April 19, 2013 - 11:24 am: |
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-groan- I love this bike, and I'll fix it... but I don't and am not relishing the task at hand. I got it washed yesterday, first wash of the season.... it looked amazing.... I put it back where I park it, and I did all that detailing just to have it rained on today It's like they can't predict the weather here at all, lol |
Milt
| Posted on Saturday, April 20, 2013 - 12:08 pm: |
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What? You washed a Blast? |
Valhalha30
| Posted on Monday, April 22, 2013 - 09:36 am: |
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OF COURSE! My bike is vivid yellow! It looks trashy all grimed up! I think cuz I'm a girl I have to keep it extra shiny too! Since it's loud, and I'm not the usual type of rider like the other's around here, I attract a bit of attention. I get slightly embarrassed if my bike looks dirty, so I wash it weekly (or every two weeks, depends on how much it gets ridden) |
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