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Zane
Posted on Wednesday, March 13, 2013 - 03:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does anyone know off the top of their heads what size torquex head is needed to remove the fly screen? I need to look for an in line fuse for my GPS mount. Now that I have a way to charge the battery off the bike my GPS seems to work but acts like it's not receiving power from the cradle mount.

While I'm there I want to replace ballast for my headlight. It always lights when I turn the key on but more and more will go out when the engine draws power to start.
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, March 13, 2013 - 03:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well it is Allen key not Torx, and a small SAE size. Sorry I don't know the actual number off the top of my head, I just use of these fold out things with a range of sizes on it, and it is one of the smaller ones.



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Bosgarage57
Posted on Wednesday, March 13, 2013 - 04:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i changed mine to phillips heads :-)
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Zane
Posted on Wednesday, March 13, 2013 - 05:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Froggy,

Thanks. I didn't look at it close, just assumed it was torquex. You know what they say about assume...

Anyway, my GPS quite working a while back. Acted like the battery had fried it self but once I got a way to charge it, it seemed to work fine. That leads me to think I may have an inline fuse dead. Does that sound reasonable to you?

z
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Uly_man
Posted on Wednesday, March 13, 2013 - 05:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

As said the Allen type but NOT Metric ie the other ones.

The fly screen bolts are a pain in the ass. I make sure they are all fitted loose and not cross threaded before tightening them down. Do not loose any of the plastic washers and do not over tighten the bolts either.
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Wednesday, March 13, 2013 - 05:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I replaced all of them with 1/4-20 SS socket head screws. Just re-tapped the 10-32 holes with the larger 1/4-20 tap without any drilling.
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Zane
Posted on Wednesday, March 13, 2013 - 05:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like good advice Uly_Man. I never know if something is going to be metric, SAE or some other mystical size on this thing...lol

Thank God we've got guys like you and Froggy to lean on. Thanks.
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, March 13, 2013 - 05:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

Anyway, my GPS quite working a while back. Acted like the battery had fried it self but once I got a way to charge it, it seemed to work fine. That leads me to think I may have an inline fuse dead. Does that sound reasonable to you?




Regarding the GPS, what make and model? Besides the powered bike mount, what other ways to do you have for charing? Like car mount, USB cable, wall wart brick, etc.

You need to determine if the mount is getting power, and if it is, if the GPS is getting power.

Here is what I would do if I was experiencing similar with my Zumo: First I would take a USB cable and plug the GPS into my computer, this will make the GPS turn on, and recharge the battery. This will tell me the GPS is working, so it is not totally screwed.

After a few hours of charging I would disconnect it and go to the bike. I would disconnect and then reconnect any connectors, like the power cable going to the mount, on both ends of the cable. Maybe it came loose or is corroded.

I would turn the Zumo on and put it in the mount, and let it boot up to the main menu screen. There is a battery meter on that screen, it goes away when the GPS is getting power. I would start the bike, and verify the other accessories are working. I have all my accessories on the stock accessory line, so if they are all working that is one less thing to check off, but if they aren't then I have a bigger issue. If you were smart you installed the GPS on that accessory line. If you don't have any other goodies, turn the heated grips on high and give them a minute, or you an try a phone charger or something in the cigarette outlet to see if that at least lights up.

Once you have confirmed everything else has power, your GPS should be charging. If it is not, it is time to break out the volt meter and start trying to figure out where the issue lies.
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Uly_man
Posted on Wednesday, March 13, 2013 - 05:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The HID lights? Do you have the "both on" mod?
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Zane
Posted on Wednesday, March 13, 2013 - 08:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The GPS is a "Buell" Quest. I’m don’t know if it was installed by the bike original owner Micah Wright known as Slowride here on Badweb or if he had the dealer do the installation. Either way it worked flawlessly for over a year.

I first attempted to recharge it using the USB port attached to a PC. No joy that way but Marty Fehl sent me the correct Garmin wall charger and cradle along with his old GPS unit. Once I had the charger it was no problem to recharge the battery. As long as either unit had a charge, it works fine. Only issue is that neither GPS unit no longer turned itself on and off when going through the start up/shut down procedure.

My thinking is that the GPS unit isn’t seeing any change in a power on/power off condition so doesn’t know to turn itself on or off. I happened to be glancing at the unit when it died. I couldn’t give it my full attention since I was going about 75 mph on I-8 at the time. I did see the unit go black, look like it was trying to reboot and then go and stay black. That’s why I think it’s not getting power from the bike’s electrical system. There was some electrical casualty and the internal battery went flat.

I’ve just been so busy with work and my son’s drama I haven’t had a chance to work with it at all until now.

As to the headlights, yes Micha did the both on conversion. When I bought the bike from him he said that once in a great while the low light wouldn’t come/stay on through startup. The first year, it happened only a once or twice but it’s getting more and more frequent now. I’m guessing it’s a ballast since the low beam will stay on if I shut down and go through the start up procedure a second time. Both bulbs are good.

(Message edited by Zane on March 13, 2013)
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, March 13, 2013 - 08:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok I used to have a Quest, so I am familiar with its workings. After the Garmin is powered on and at the main screen, press the page button (looks like two squares partially overlapping), it will bring up another screen with a speedometer and some other status. On the upper left side is a battery meter, that will show you how charged it is. When it is charging, it will have a lightning bolt icon on top of the blue bar, and if it is full it will be a power outlet icon. If you see just the blue bar, you are running on the battery.

It sounds like you are on the right track, you just need to find out why it is not charging, be it the cradle has gone bad, or the gps is not making contact on the cradle, or there is a break in connection along the line. I doubt it is the fuse but it doesn't hurt to check. Good luck!
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Uly_man
Posted on Thursday, March 14, 2013 - 04:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"As to the headlights, yes Micha did the both on conversion. When I bought the bike from him he said that once in a great while the low light wouldn’t come/stay on through startup. The first year, it happened only a once or twice but it’s getting more and more frequent now. I’m guessing it’s a ballast since the low beam will stay on if I shut down and go through the start up procedure a second time."

Does the low beam come on if you switch the ignition key to "park"?
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Zane
Posted on Thursday, March 14, 2013 - 11:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, it does. During the start up procedure, it always comes on. I turn the key to the "on" position and the light always come on. I flip the engine switch and can hear the fuel pump power up and the headlight still stays on.

When I hit the starter button, the engine will turn over (and almost always start first time), now the low beam will go out about 40% of the time.

Shutting down the power to the bike by shutting off at the key and going through the startup procedure again will generally clear the problem.

I'm guessing there is a ballast under the fly screen that is getting week, but it's just a guess.

I was in Phoenix today seeing a great lady friend so didn't have a chance to tinker with it.
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Zane
Posted on Sunday, March 17, 2013 - 09:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Got the fly screen off and found the problem with the GPS. An inline 2 amp fuse was fried. Replaced that it everything was fine. All told, it didn't take 20 minutes. Of course I had to "test" it for about 40 miles. It held up fine...lol

While I had the fly screen off, I also looked around for a headlight ballast. I could not find one at all. Is it possible that it's built into the bulb?
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, March 17, 2013 - 09:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The ballast is not part of the bulb, but it could be attached to the backside of the reflector. Time to trace wires to see where they go - start at the bulb, and see where they lead.

I have the occasional lamp-douse on startup too. Trick I found, bump the starter ONE time and release the button. That frees the engine a bit. Then start it normally, and that keeps me from having to cycle the key to re-strike the lamp about 98% of the time.
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Zane
Posted on Monday, March 18, 2013 - 01:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok. I'll give that a try.
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