| Author | Message | ||
     Greg_e |
Going to try here and see if anyone has any wisdom for me... Pretty sure I need to replace my starter, grounds are decent and I will clean them to make certain, but should be OK. I did order a starter and waiting for it to arrive. I know I need to pull the side cover off to get the bolts holding the starter, obviously the oil needs to be out of the Tmission, time for that to happen anyway and have the oil. Should have all the gaskets too. What I want to know is, what impediments am I going to run into if I don't rotate the engine? | ||
| Sparky |
Rotating is not required. There are only 6 steps in the manual for starter removal: 1) Remove seat. 2) Remove primary cover. 3) Remove sprocket cover. 4) Remove 2 starter mounting bolts & washers. 5) Remove nut & washer at batt cable, Remove batt cable, Remove solenoid wire. 6) Remove starter & gasket from gearcase cover side. Curious though, what are the symptoms that make you think the starter needs replacing? And what diagnostics did you do that lead to the problem being a failed starter motor? There are 6 tests for different conditions in the manual. | ||
| Greg_e |
Excessive current draw during starting is the biggest issue. I think I cranked it too long when I rebuilt the top end waiting for oil pressure to come up, it's been weird since I did this. I've had lots of other things go bad, every bit of work I do makes this cycle so much better. | ||
| Greg_e |
I can now say for certain that you can indeed change the starter without rotating the engine, though there are only a few more steps to rotating it. There are definitely more than 6 steps. The absolute first thing is drain the oil. Removing the clutch cable is also a good idea since we all know how fragile the primary end is to sideways force. | ||
| Harleyelf |
You can always rotate your engine by simply elevating the rear wheel, putting the transmission in high gear, and turning the wheel. Taking the plugs out makes it easier. | ||
| Greg_e |
That rotation was in reference to rotating the engine forward and partially out of the frame, not just spinning the pistons. Well the excessive current draw has ceased, from 11.24v with 130 watts of lights on to about 9.5v cranking and no more cough like it is going to fail to spin so I'm happy, just need to drain the engine oil and change filter and put it all back together so I can ride it. Is there a way to rebuild these starter motors? |
