Author |
Message |
Alfau
| Posted on Monday, February 18, 2013 - 05:12 pm: |
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Did you clear the trouble codes in EcmSpy? They will stay there until you clear them. |
Pash
| Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 01:48 am: |
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Regarding the log, I wrote earlier that: "The log file can be found in c:\program files\ecmspy\megalog." and "If you are using Vista or 7 or 8, the settings may stop ECMSpy from writing to the above directory. I use XP so don't suffer from this issue but I know Kevmean had to jump this hurdle." The second bit is about permissions. Do you as a user on Windows (or ECMSpy as a program) have the permissions to write to c:\program files? You need to talk to someone that knows about computers. As I said, I am on XP where anything goes... As an aside, the BAS takes its 12V from the same source as, amongst other stuff, the speedo and the injectors. When your bike dies, is your speedo still working? |
Mrsandman
| Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 03:00 pm: |
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I don't think i cleared the trouble codes, i'll do that now. As for the computer ordeal, i'll find me a nerd very soon, because I have very little computer knowledge as far as this stuff goes. The speed still works when the bike dies. Im going to try to disable the BAS again and give it another whirl. I will get you that data though, hopefully in a day or two. Thanks again. |
Mrsandman
| Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 03:21 pm: |
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Real Quick. So I take the check off the BAS box so BAS is not active, but everytime I open ECMspy back up, it shows it active again. Also I did clear the trouble codes from ECM spy and it says that there are no troble codes present when read. How do I keep it from checking the BAS when I look at it. |
Pash
| Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 03:54 pm: |
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Here you go dude... You need to uncheck the BAS then click Burn
To turn the error checking off (and bear in mind that this may be helping us to determine the issue), go to [Diagnostics], click on [Byte 4] then uncheck the BAS shorts (both 44 on my ECMSpy version) then click burn.
And yeah, find a geek (new best friend) to help with permissions and writing to c:\program files. Or do a Google... |
Mrsandman
| Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 04:26 pm: |
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Here is what I did. I went to ECM spy, then "fetch eeprom" -Then ECM Config -Un checked BAS -Clicked on burn -Then I went to Diagnoistics -clicked on byte 4 -Unchecked BAS 44 (+ and -) The clicked on burn I took it our for a ride and it still wanted to die under load. I plugged it back into my Ecm Spy, and saw that no trouble codes where present BUT I did notice that the BAS sensor box was still checked? (this was in ECM-config tab) Everytime I uncheck it, it gets checked again. Grrrr. |
Pash
| Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 05:32 pm: |
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Hmm. So, uncheck the BAS, click burn, then go to EEPROM and fetch EEPROM. Go look at the check box again. Is it checked? If so, go back to the EEPROM tab. This is where we teach this ECM who is boss... Find the cell 08 000 (circled). This is 79 as stock.
This is the hexadecimal representation of the binary reflection of the config check boxes. Look at the bottom right, 0111 1001, check this against the config data, read right to left and top to bottom. So the first '1' means the 'idle ignition timing adj. enable' is checked, the zero means 'idle closed loop enable' is not checked, etc. So we need 0110 1001, which is 69 in hexadecimal. So, type in 69, then the [=] button. Then [Burn EEPROM].
Fetch the EEPROM again and check you have 69. BTW, have you got a JA or KA EEPROM? |
Mrsandman
| Posted on Friday, February 22, 2013 - 06:28 pm: |
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Im not sure what JA or or KA is? i do have a buddy coming over tomorrow who has read my thread and is hopeful in helping me solve my on going dilemma. I won't hold my breath though. |
Alfau
| Posted on Sunday, February 24, 2013 - 03:21 am: |
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EcmSpy reads the ECM Firmware version BUEJA120=stock BUEKA210=Race See EcmSpy desktop above;top right,Firmware version. You have to fetch EEPROM to see your ecm version. |
Mrsandman
| Posted on Tuesday, March 05, 2013 - 03:47 pm: |
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Hello again, Sorry for the wait, we have had some unexpected weather here and i haven't been able to ride the bike. Im hoping to get this thing done by Thursday and get some readings from ECMspy. As for the firmware version, i'll give it a look soon. Wish me luck. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Tuesday, March 05, 2013 - 06:10 pm: |
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Good luck sir! |
Mrsandman
| Posted on Wednesday, March 06, 2013 - 04:42 pm: |
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Mine says its a BUEJa120? But my ECM says for race use? not sure if this has anything to do with my bike running poorly or not. Am I supposed to or can I change the version? |
Alfau
| Posted on Wednesday, March 06, 2013 - 05:30 pm: |
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Sorry for the stuff up. BUEKA210 is stock INTERNATIONAL version BUEJA120 RACE. Breathe easy. |
Mrsandman
| Posted on Saturday, March 09, 2013 - 08:09 pm: |
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Well So I decided to replace the ground strap on the tail section before i did anymore testing, in hopes it would have some effect. Doesn't seem to though! I attempted to log my ride today and see what was to come of the logged data, but I got nothing logged into the computer, I still can't find where it is being saved. I did notice that when you right click on ECMSPY and go to properties, you can select what version of windows you would like the program to run with. I choose windows 7, but I still couldn't find the data where it should be located.
Aside from that im thinking this may be some sort of electrical, possible voltage issue. My old ground strap was absolute garbage and I ordered a new one and put it on but I didn't make any immediate difference. Im thinking the old ground strap may have caused the battery voltage to drop a bit and now I feel I should ride it around (as long as it will stay lit anyway) and see if the voltage comes back up. Im idling at about 11.6 to 12.1 volts and it jumps up to about 13 volts or so when Reeved up to about 2500 RPM... Im not certain this will make a difference but its worth a shot. I actually did successfully disable the BAS from my ECM and as my luck seems to preceed me, no positive outcomes there. Im going to go through the rest of the bike this week and pay extra careful attention to the wiring double check any other grounds. If ya'll have anymore advice on how I should attack this, please let me know. Thanks. |
Mrsandman
| Posted on Monday, March 11, 2013 - 12:43 pm: |
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Just a quick though. Im idling at 1050 to 1100 RPM's, at 13.0 to 13.1 volts, is that about what my voltage should be at when idling. Just want to be sure, I can't seem to locate the data in the Buell manuel. I was thinking of changing out the voltage regulator but I wanted to get the opinion of others first. Thanks. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Monday, March 11, 2013 - 03:15 pm: |
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13 sounds pretty much ok. it should go up a volt or so when you rev it to 2000 though. At idle, it's barely taking care of itself. |
Mrsandman
| Posted on Tuesday, March 12, 2013 - 07:47 pm: |
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Ok, so a little progress to note. I got ECMspy to log my data to where I can view it. I know there is a way to view it on a graph if you want to spend 30 bucks and there is a numerical free way to view it. Its a huge piece of data for a 15 minute ride. Anywho other than that my check engine light turned on as soon as I left my parking log and I got some trouble codes that where interesting:
And i know that PASH wanted to view the logs, and I hope these are sufficient. I can buy the graphical version if needed. Thanks gang. |
Mrsandman
| Posted on Sunday, March 17, 2013 - 03:49 pm: |
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Ok so I found an interesting find today. For what ever reason for the last couple days, my bike seemed to running ok, with the exception of the famous AFV dropping to 80? So this morning a couple hours ago, I was going to ride my bike down town just to see if she was running good. I decided to fuel up at the "CIRCLE K" gas station by my house. I fill up with the usual 91 Octane and then I go on my way. Not even 100 yards from the gas station my bike starts to die out on me and wont try to stay lit under any sort of load. I immediately remember that when this first started happening was when I filled up my gas tank last time. I was on a half tank both times and immediately after fill up, it started to go out on me. To me this doensn't seem like a coincidence. So im going to drain most of my fuel and see what happens. I'll get back to you later today. Thanks. |
01x1buell
| Posted on Sunday, March 17, 2013 - 03:57 pm: |
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fuel filter, i do not know if anyone has mentioned that yet, dirty fuel, ethonal |
Mrsandman
| Posted on Sunday, March 17, 2013 - 04:05 pm: |
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Ok, so I drained 3 gallons from my tank and took it for a test ride and it ran great. Just as predicted. So its not the quality of the fuel, its the quantity that I put into the tank that for some reason causes it to die under load. Im going to remove the fuel pump now and check it out. |
01x1buell
| Posted on Sunday, March 17, 2013 - 04:07 pm: |
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what about the breather hose, is it pinched at all cause if it is pinched then the fuel will not be allowed to be pulled in by the fuel pump. check this first before messing with the puump |
Mrsandman
| Posted on Sunday, March 17, 2013 - 04:14 pm: |
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Just checked it its fine and I can pass air through it. |
01x1buell
| Posted on Sunday, March 17, 2013 - 04:22 pm: |
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ok just a thought i always start simple. |
Mrsandman
| Posted on Sunday, March 17, 2013 - 07:41 pm: |
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Well I tested it out 3 times and basically what I did was top off the bike and run it, and it would die on me. Then I would drain about 2 gallons and then run the bike. and it would run fine. Not sure how or if this ties into the fuel pump cutting out but that is what it seems to do. I feel like i should just order a new pump and some new injectors to cure the AFV drop. |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Sunday, March 17, 2013 - 08:08 pm: |
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Is your air vent above the tank clear? |
Kevmean
| Posted on Sunday, March 17, 2013 - 11:06 pm: |
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Is the fuel line trapped beneath the tank? .....more fuel = more weight pinching the pipe closed ? |
Alfau
| Posted on Monday, March 18, 2013 - 05:12 am: |
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Is the full fuel tank pressing onto and crushing the wiring harness underneath ? The more fuel the harder it presses down. I have had this happen. |
Mrsandman
| Posted on Monday, March 18, 2013 - 11:10 am: |
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-Yes, the air vent is clear and i am able to pass air through the entire hose. -The fuel line is not trapped beneath the tank but it is routed beneath the tank and plugged into my air intake. Basically I put the tank on and bolted it down the the air vent line i routed on the right side underneth the tank and plugged into the air intake. -There isn't anything between the tank and the frame, especially any wiring. I looked at that yesterday, but i'll double check. Its funny because when I was running a half tank it was running pretty good, but when I accelerated fast, which threw a bunch of fuel towards the end of the tank where my fuel pump is, it caused the bike to surge a bit, replicating the symptoms of a full tank. This was only for a short moment and then it went back to normal. So im suspecting it is some kind of fuel pump issue. Still open to suggestions though. |
Kevmean
| Posted on Monday, March 18, 2013 - 04:26 pm: |
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the air vent line i routed on the right side underneath the tank and plugged into the air intake. The vent line should do just that vent ... are you sure excess fuel vapours being fed into the what should be drawing in fresh air isn't causing some of your issues? Also if the intake is sucking on the vent line it will possibly cause the one way ball valve to get sucked shut preventing air being drawn into the tank to replace the fuel being used |
01x1buell
| Posted on Monday, March 18, 2013 - 04:26 pm: |
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The fuel line is not trapped beneath the tank but it is routed beneath the tank and ,,,,,plugged into my air intake. Basically I put the tank on and bolted it down the the air vent line i routed on the right side underneath the tank and plugged into the air intake,,,,,, that does not sound right to me, so you have the tank breather going into the intake,, i have never heard of that before. |
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