| Author | Message | ||
     Uly_man |
Low beam, 35w and 6000K. These can even cast a shadow in daylight. A easy and cheap upgrade on the bike.  (Message edited by Uly_man on February 16, 2013) | ||
| Schwiggy |
Looks like a good amount of light. You only did the low beam? Where did you mount the ballast? Also, what mirrors are those? | ||
| Pontlee77 |
maybe 6.000kelvin is to much and possibly will burn the reflector (silver peeling off) | ||
| Zac4mac |
Don't know about the Uly's Light box having issues with HID and the reflectors. I put HID lo-beams in my 1125R almost 5 years ago and all is still good and bright, reflectors are undamaged. I have halogens in the Uly and can run 1, 2, 3, or 4 as I need more light. The 2 HID on the 1125 make about as much light as 3 of my Uly's halogens. Z | ||
| Pontlee77 |
a friend has one of his reflectors peelig,but the Hid gives so much light the dosen't notice it much. | ||
| Baybueller |
I did the same to mine and like the results. My problem is with the pattern. I commute a very twisty road in the dark and the narrow horizontal pattern is not good in high lean angles. Aux. lights are in the plan. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
6000K is just the color temp. I'm pretty sure HID put off less heat per watt than standard halogen bulbs. They use that color temp designation for LEDs that are cool to the touch. Just for reference, 373K is boiling water. For comparison, here is a listing of the melting temperatures of various types of glass: http://hypertextbook.com/facts/2002/SaiLee.shtml | ||
| Uly_man |
A 35w HID has about the same light (LUX) output of a 55w Halogen lamp but uses 20w less power. A normal Halogen on a bike is about 5500K. A 6000K HID is fine but they get very blue after that. The two main things with HID is the light quality (amazing to see) and the power saving. I had PIAA Extreme lamps on my 06 bike. They cost TWICE as much as the HID system and were nothing like as good either. | ||
| Uly_man |
"Looks like a good amount of light." Yes they work real good. I love them. "You only did the low beam?" This is low "on" only but I have HID on the "high beam" as well and the "high and low on" mod. "Where did you mount the ballast?" Both in the cowl under the spar. "Also, what mirrors are those?" LED indicator mirrors via E-Bay. They work much better than the Aprilia Tuneo type but not very good quality. Cheap though. | ||
| Evileye |
I also installed HID lights on my ULY. I went with the 55w 8500k lights, the blue color gets me noticed....and they are BRIGHT!!!! I had to undo the dual headlamp mod, due to the brightness. I have also had to replace the headlamp assy, due to it melting the reflector off. I think this was due to the silver stars I was using before the HID. these seem to run cooler...time will tell | ||
| Buellerxt |
I had the American Sport Bike #9520 HID kit installed this weekend and they are BRIGHT! Al recommended the low beam only because the ballast is negatively effected, over time, with the on/off frequency on the high beam. My low beam is now much brighter that my BRIGHTS! lol I had a tech I really trust at my local HD dealership install it and he did a great job, particularly with the ballast. Well worth the half hour of labor to me. HID H7 Lighting, 4500K, 35W, 12V, 3,000 hr. lifespan. (Message edited by buellerxt on February 18, 2013) (Message edited by buellerxt on February 18, 2013) | ||
| Mnrider |
I've had DDM 35w 4500 in my high and low for 4 years with no problems at all. Hardly ever use the high beam cause the lows are so bright. I was riding across northern WS.last year and people were flashing their lights at me so I'm thinking oh no my headlights aren't working but there was a cop with his radar around the next corner,nice of those folks to worn me  | ||
| Uly_man |
I all the years of cars and bikes I can almost can count the number of times I used the high beam. A GOOD low beam is whats needed. Al is right about HID switching over time but its nice to have it anyway and more so if you live/ride in the "big sticks". The thing is that they are very cheap and if a HID lamp goes you can always fit a standard one anyway. So no down sides to the deal. | ||
| Zac4mac |
When I did the HIDs on my 1125R, I only did the lo-beams. My HIDs are 6k *K, just a tad blue. The HIDs drown the halogen hi-beams, so I only use the hi-beams to flash oncoming traffic. The contrast in the bluish HID and yellow halogens is a real attention-getter, especially with 2 of each. Z | ||
| Uly_man |
With HIDs it is all about the "quality" of the light output not the quantity. Things like road signs, road lines, cats eyes, etc just "light up", even in bright daylight, like nothing a Halogen can do even the PIAA ones. And they cost twice the price. You also "get noticed" on the road as well which makes for safer riding. A single HID on low beam is enough. Two can be done but it is a bit of a squeeze fitting them under the Ulys cowl. Its not the ballasts that is the problem more all the extra wires and plugs. The modern "slim line" types work fine but they still need a little time to reach full light output. Which is why they are, most of the time, not suited to main/high beam. Just use a better quality Halogen for this. Just my opinion though and how I would do it the next time around. | ||
| Mnrider |
Hids in both won't work with out the headlight mod. When you switch to high beam the low beam is still on and gives the high beam ballast time to warm up. Once the high ballast is warmed up it lights bright right away when switching them on and off. | ||
| Eaglerider |
The stock 55W H7 bulb puts out about 1500 Lumens of light output. A typical 35W HID has output in the 3000 lumens range. It has about twice the light with lesspower draw (35W vs 55W). I use a HID on the low beam only and kept the stock H7 on the high. I also have the dual light high beam mod so the HID low bema does not go out when I flip the high beam | ||
| Sprintex |
The only thing i don't like with my cheap HID low beam is how scattered the light is.( The reflector is designed for the H7) Is this less of an issue with more expensive units? | ||
| Buellerxt |
Sprintex, Mine is an H7 4500K, 35W, and I don't have scatter, just a very bright light! | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I was checking these out: http://www.bestrestproducts.com/c-141-trail-tech-h id-lights.aspx They seem like a great idea with built in ballasts. Website has no price!? Isn't that an important bit of data if you're buying a thing? What's the point of having a website? | ||
| Verdad |
Nate - For some reason, we have to click on the link at the bottom of the page for the details. $180 is what I saw. http://www.bestrestproducts.com/p-216-trail-tech-h id-eclipse.aspx Russ | ||
| Uly_man |
The Uly has no "focus lens" to the front of the low/high beams. The position of the "glowing" part of the lamp needs to be in the right position in the housing. In the case of a HID its the "white ball" in the lamp. I have heard that you can get HID lamps that are "over long" so maybe thats the problem. Who knows? "When riding in the rain we STRONGLY recommend fitting the included clear silicone cover onto the light. That keeps water from being forced past the seals. We also recommend using silicone sealant on the wires, where they exit the wiring harness." Man I have had $70 (pair) H1 projector spots that were better than that? These cost $180 EACH and $85 per lamp to replace and you WILL need to replace them at some point. Buy good 10w LED units. (Message edited by Uly_man on February 23, 2013) | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Wow. that's a pathetic joke if they aren't even rainproof at $180. Sorry I even brought it up! Right now, I am running a pair of 55W driving lights. They are very bright and were under $25 but if I use heated gear, the alternator can't quite keep up according to the kuryakin meter. I am still waiting for LEDs to get cheaper. One other thing I was thinking of was perhaps upgrading my RAINPROOF $25 lights with HIDs. http://www.amazon.com/Slim-Kensun-Xenon-Lights-430 0K/dp/B0083W09C6/ref=sr_1_13?s=automotive&ie=UTF8& qid=1361663614&sr=1-13&keywords=h3+hid+kit | ||
| Buellerxt |
Quote from Mnrider:"I've had DDM 35w 4500 in my high and low for 4 years with no problems at all. Hardly ever use the high beam cause the lows are so bright." Mnrider, or anyone else who just fires the bike up normally, without delaying start up because of the HID ballast, and rides off; any problems? Any need to wait beyond the light going off for the ecm check before firing it up? Thanks. | ||
| Uly_man |
Modern Hid systems are great but, like Al said, they still do not like to be switched on and off. They need time to heat up to max temp for full light output. Maybe 10 seconds. Re striking HIDs will cut there life, lamp and ballast, big time. I had the "two light" mod on the wire block in the cowl. With this version the low beam comes off the parking/postion light and is not switched off via the starter relay as normal. With a low battery the HID light would sometimes go out (ballast detecting low volts on cranking) and I would need to restart the bike to make it work. A pain in the ass. I now have the light mod at the switch and the lights have not gone out since. I just fire up and ride. I think this is the best way to do it. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Thanks, Uly_man. I tried the 15 sec. delay after the ecm light goes off, several times, and for some reason the bike had a big delay in starting. Today, three times before long rides, I fired it up as soon as the ecm light went off and the bike fired right up! I'm going to stick with that approach, the same as I did before installing the 35W HID, and hope all is good. The HID comes on and all seems good. Hopefully the ballast can deal with it. | ||
| Choyashi |
I must just not be like everyone else! I put my HID in the highbeam side. At night when I really need to see far off, I switch on my HID brights. If I worry about being seen in the daylight, I just run the brights (HID). No one is blinded by them in the daylight. Only problem is at night, you have to dim your lights when the approaching car is 2 miles away................ |
