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Sportyeric
| Posted on Thursday, January 31, 2013 - 09:18 pm: |
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I replaced the front and rear isolators last year but at different times. I still have a vibration I don't like. It may be that bad rears buggered up the new front (or vice versa.)So I'm probably going to have to just replace the works again. But a quick question first. I used PN 16207-79D for the front. Is it possible that it came with a bolt and that the bolt it came with is smaller than the hole in the front engine mount? It seems to me that a 79D should be needing to be drilled out and I don't think I did that. So did I use a bolt too narrow? |
Rsm688
| Posted on Thursday, January 31, 2013 - 09:28 pm: |
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Yes you should drill it out and use the original bolt or one the right size and grade to replace it. Many are running them with the small bolt and no vibes though. When and what kind of vibes are you getting? |
Blackm2
| Posted on Thursday, January 31, 2013 - 10:23 pm: |
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http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17025-B.html That is the part you need. It is always a point of contention on this forum about this mount. There is no drilling necessary as this mount was thoroughly tested with this bolt. It has been in my bike for over 7000 miles as well. Don't waste time and money, this works. |
Sportyeric
| Posted on Thursday, January 31, 2013 - 10:34 pm: |
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Thanks to both of you. I understand that clamping force rather than bolt-to-side-of-hole-force is what is at play. Its useful to know that others have used the smaller bolt without problems. And the 2010 HD stock upgrade, as indicated on American Sport Bike's link, is something I wasn't aware of. Bummer its currently out of stock. The vibes are at idle but excessive enough that I worry about breaking more signal lights. I've had this bike for 60K miles (on top of its first 35K) so I know what it should shake like and its not quite right. A second look at the isolators seems the first place to start. |
Blackm2
| Posted on Friday, February 01, 2013 - 09:16 am: |
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Eric, if I remember correctly the link I posted has the 79D for the isolator, the kit comes with the proper size and grade bolt. It also has a snubber washer that goes on the bottom side of the whole setup. This setup does not use the D shape washer that is normally on top, that gets deleted from the equation as the flat washer on the 79D takes its place. I don't have a spare setup, but I'm sure someone has bought multiples of these, post a wanted ad. (Message edited by Blackm2 on February 01, 2013) |
Buellistic
| Posted on Friday, February 01, 2013 - 01:04 pm: |
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Under SAFETY what is your plan on the smaller bolt going into the larger hole in the motor mount ... WOULD YOU TAKE THE MOTOR MOUNT BOLTS IN YOU CAR OUT AND PUT IN SMALLER OD BOLTS IN ??? |
Essmjay
| Posted on Friday, February 01, 2013 - 06:44 pm: |
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I am still waiting for any evidence of even a single instance of the new smaller bolt breaking. I have 10000 miles of cross country travel on some really crappy pavement, with zero issues from the new front isolator and bolt. |
Kc_zombie
| Posted on Friday, February 01, 2013 - 07:55 pm: |
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++! ESS |
Sportyeric
| Posted on Friday, February 01, 2013 - 08:28 pm: |
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The kit that David (Blackm2) links to is said (on that link) to be an OEM kit for Buells from HD, as I read it. So I don't have worries about the structural value of the bolt. If that's HD's best answer, I'll have to get one. And if I have to wait til spring, its not a big deal except that I'd like to get that project off the to-do list. OTOH, if the small bolt size isn't an issue, I may have to look elsewhere for the fix to my problem. |
S1owner
| Posted on Friday, February 01, 2013 - 08:38 pm: |
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I bought mine from American Sport Bike works great front and back used the small bolt also! |
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