| Author |
Message |
    
Thrstrmech
| | Posted on Thursday, August 16, 2012 - 05:09 pm: | 
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While riding to work yesterday, had a sudden power lose, then power back up, then she went dead. No lights, nothing, all fuses okay, got clicking sound and felt the ignition relay doing it's thing, but nothing else...puzzled? Checked the battery voltage @ 12.9v and turned ignition on, got the same clicking sound from relay and this time slight illumination on cluster(neutral and engine lights) and then nothing. Anyone have an idea of what may be going on?update...replaced relays and diodes, problem still the same. Battery checks ok, cables tight, all wires ok. Still have clicking noise from fuse/relay box and can feel 'em energized. Still no response from anything, no cluster lights, gauge needle movements, no fuel pump turning on, no starter engagement. WTF? over! anyone have any ideas?another update...unplugged voltage regulator and stator, checked with multimeter and nothing out of the ordinary, all checked out as per manual. Although, this time after turning ignition off, the needles on the cluster moved just like it normally would when the ignition is turned on, now really confused? |
Harleyelf
| | Posted on Friday, August 17, 2012 - 09:31 am: |
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All grounds good? Stator hooked up properly? Regulator connections firm? This is a loose or broken wire somewhere. Unless your ECM is cracked. |
Sparky
| | Posted on Friday, August 17, 2012 - 12:09 pm: |
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You say battery checks ok. How did you determine that?
Sounds like the battery may have an intermittent internal connection or bad cell that won't take a load. I'd take the battery out and have it load tested at an auto parts store or repair shop. |
Thrstrmech
| | Posted on Saturday, August 18, 2012 - 11:28 am: |
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Used a multimeter to check the battery, turns out both the battery and multimeter were crap...actual battery voltage was below 10.5v with low amp reading too. My son removed the battery and hooked up his tender directly to the bike, all indicators worked normally and she fired right up. Can't find the paper where he wrote the values on, anyway installed a new battery and no further issues. However in looking things over, removed windscreen checking for bad or loose connections, tracing 'em through the frame, around the engine and into the tail section to find nada... found out that I have a race ECM installed...no signs of cracks anywhere, every connector was nice 'n tight, just cleaned all residue/dirt around the outer part of 'em. |
Pepperdog
| | Posted on Monday, January 28, 2013 - 11:09 pm: |
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After a 50 mile uneventful ride my Uly just died, and wouldn't re-start. It had been running perfect, then just shut down. I tried restarting, and would get an intermittent guages /ignition on, then it would crank for a few seconds then die again. Got it towed home, and started looking for a cause. I jiggled the ECM module and twisted the cable and it would occasionally spring to life, but not start. Repositioning the ECM by unbolting it and moving the cable by twisting it would send juice to the ignition and the guages would light up, but it won't start. It has gas, a new Deca battery, always on a battery tender, and there were no other issues prior to this ride. The ECM doesn't look cracked, no wires loose. Any ideas? |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2013 - 07:47 am: |
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Sounds like you are on the right track, it sounds electrical. Its easy to fool yourself with intermittent shorts, so proceed really methodically.
The other common place for a wire problem is where the wire bundle comes out from under the flyscreen and goes around the bottom of the frame. There can be internal wire breaks where the conductor breaks but the insulator looks fine. So you can't see them by eye, but you can pull apart the bundle and run each wire through your finger while making it flex. It's really obvious when you have a broken internal wire.
Even if that isn't your current problem, it can be a future problem, so it's not a waste of time.
For the ECM, I'm not sure you can see the cracks unless you remove some potting, so you may already have found the problem. It might be worth resoldering, but depending on the year, it might be a nice excuse to just buy the EBR ecm and have a bike that runs the way God (instead of the EPA) intended anyway. |
Kilroy
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2013 - 11:42 am: |
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"New" battery does not always equate to "good" battery |
Harleyelf
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 05, 2013 - 07:38 pm: |
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Bypass the ignition switch and see if that helps. |
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