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Arizona_buell
| Posted on Tuesday, January 22, 2013 - 09:38 pm: |
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Well folks I have been collecting parts and cleaning parts and replacing old stuff with new stuff. After powder coating the frame I start to notice how bad the bolts and links and such really looked.So I have been thinking about a polisher and I bought a few small wheels for my drill press just to see how hard or time consuming it will be. Here are a few samples of what I did today after work. Not too bad for a cheap setup for now. All before pics.
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Arizona_buell
| Posted on Tuesday, January 22, 2013 - 09:42 pm: |
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And some after pictures.
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Jaggerts
| Posted on Tuesday, January 22, 2013 - 11:19 pm: |
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Dang bro!! Looks nice!! Lot of work to get it looking like that? |
Arizona_buell
| Posted on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 05:58 am: |
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Well surprisingly it wasn't too bad. I glass beaded some of the parts before polishing them. It will take time for sure but I did all those parts and the head bolts in a couple of hours. This is my first time so I am just learning. I should be a PRO before this is over for this bike though. 8-) I am warming up for the rocker boxes,swingarm,and the front end parts. |
Buellish
| Posted on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 08:58 am: |
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Looking good Mark! |
S1owner
| Posted on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 01:28 pm: |
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Wait till you have to maintain the polish look when assembled! |
Arizona_buell
| Posted on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 02:07 pm: |
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Ha, Yes I have had that same experience. However this Buell has snowballed into something that should be worthy of a bike show. Most everything is new and or powder coated or replaced. I got a brand new wiring harness,new seat,completely rebuilt engine and too much more to list. |
Lakes
| Posted on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 03:58 pm: |
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Nice work! |
S1owner
| Posted on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 05:53 pm: |
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I here you i did the same last winter got alot bigger then i thought you know well why i have this off i should do that! Diffrence i powder coated everything i do mot loke to polish! |
Notpurples2
| Posted on Thursday, January 24, 2013 - 08:43 am: |
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There are coatings out there for polished parts that will keep them shining for a long time. I don't have any personal experience but it might be worth investing in. Just a thought. Very nice work by the way. |
Rick_a
| Posted on Thursday, January 24, 2013 - 08:48 am: |
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quote:Wait till you have to maintain the polish look when assembled!
For sure. Mine went from polished to brushed patina. Much easier to maintain! I still have polished wheels, and keep them shiney. |
Arizona_buell
| Posted on Thursday, January 24, 2013 - 06:07 pm: |
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Well I already know how that goes I have three motorcycles and one is a 30 year old Shovelhead. I am aware of what can happen.. That won't deter me from my current goal. I will figure out how to keep it looking good for as long as possible. I was thinking of powder coating some of the other bits like the swingarm forks and motor mount and such, but I want to see how this will look. I powder coated the frame yellow and the engine is black so I am looking for more contrasting colors. I like the look of polished rocker boxes. If this does not look right when I am done I then I can think about powder coating later. |
Hybridmomentspass
| Posted on Thursday, January 24, 2013 - 11:21 pm: |
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looks outstanding! |
Arizona_buell
| Posted on Sunday, January 27, 2013 - 07:38 pm: |
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Thanks. I did some more parts. Rough castings are a hell of a lot more work. Head bolts not so bad. I rebuilt the shifter with a new bronze bushing and a black delrin toe peg to replace the previous owners bolt and 15 nuts covered by rubber hose. :-) And of course polished it up too. |
Arizona_buell
| Posted on Sunday, January 27, 2013 - 07:45 pm: |
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First sanding with 220 grit paper. I first used oven cleaner to help remove clear anodize. Then sand and sand. I will sand these now with 320 grit down to 1000 grit before polishing. Starting to wonder how black powder coating would look on my swingarm and fork bits. :-) |
S1owner
| Posted on Sunday, January 27, 2013 - 07:54 pm: |
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I did all black everything motor is only partially polished mostly black then i did a polished aluminum with clear coat powder color on my swing arm i have an extra swing arm so i am doing it in black Where did you get the bronze bushing? |
Arizona_buell
| Posted on Sunday, January 27, 2013 - 08:52 pm: |
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The bushing and the toe peg I made at work. I work in an Aerospace machine shop. I was going to remake the plastic bushings but the hole was worn in the steel piece as well so I figured it would be easier to replace one part than three. |
Alfau
| Posted on Monday, January 28, 2013 - 01:06 am: |
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Sorry couldn't resist. |
Littlebuggles
| Posted on Monday, January 28, 2013 - 01:34 am: |
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You haven't gotten rid of your bike yet then Allan? Or are you just trolling to put others' passion down? Seriously dude, just move on if it brings you so much heartache. If I've forgotten your name I apologize, you've changed you profile info since I last had a look. Looks great Arizona. I found that with a good smooth top finish (I usually work to a 2000 grit) the polished finish will last a very long time. Couple that with drying the bike well when washed and it will look good for a long time. Some have powder coated the outer face of the middle layer of their rocker boxes with a contrasting color, it make for a cool look when complete. |
Arizona_buell
| Posted on Monday, January 28, 2013 - 08:08 am: |
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WOW 2000 grit,O.K. I will give that a shot. What's a couple more hours of sanding at this point anyway. As for the Turd polish well that doesn't bother me any. I am doing this for me and nobody else. Thanks for the encouragement. |
Littlebuggles
| Posted on Monday, January 28, 2013 - 10:54 am: |
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yeah, I try not to polish stuff any more because it can be such a long process, but on my exhaust and triple clamps I worked my way carefully through the grades, 500, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, then buffing compounds (I think I skipped red and went straight to a aluminum oxide white polishing stick from the Harbor Freight). Seems like if you make sure to get it all to the same grit before just buffing over the top [of deeper scratches] it's all got a very smooth top finish that doesn't provide purchase for water, allowing that moisture to run off when riding in rain or post washing. Meguiare's makes a nice final polish for quick clean-up just to wipe off light hazing and it leaves a protective coating too (and it smells all coco-nutty like that tanning oil my girlfriend liked back in high school... mmmm, neat!). So at one point I realized I was wasting time polishing things instead of getting seat time in and stopped, but the polish has held up well with very little attention over the last seven years or so. My name is Mike, and I'm a polishing addict. If there's a turd that needs polishing, I have far more flaws than my bike I'll wager. |
Littlebuggles
| Posted on Monday, January 28, 2013 - 10:55 am: |
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Aren't the head bolts set up for measured stretch? Meaning not for multiple time use? |
Thylacine
| Posted on Monday, January 28, 2013 - 03:20 pm: |
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+1 on the brushed patina, polish it once then let the coolness set in |
Arizona_buell
| Posted on Monday, January 28, 2013 - 07:20 pm: |
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Are the head bolts not meant to be re-used??? You would probably know more about them than me. I am more of a Shovel head guy. I just bought this because I thought I could get it going for not much money. Well that dream died and sank to the bottom of the Ocean, I am in DEEP now. But this thing is going to be soooo sweet I can't stop myself. I have always admired the Tubers, Mostly the Ducs but The x1 is a looker if done right. Someone please fill me in on the head bolts,I don't want issues with this build. |
Alfau
| Posted on Monday, January 28, 2013 - 09:42 pm: |
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Hello littlebuggles.Still the therapist I see. HEAD BOLTS. . From the manual. If only cylinder head work was needed, reinstall cylinder head following these instructions. If further repair is required, see 3.6 CYLINDER AND PISTON. 1. See Figure 3-10. Coat mating surfaces of cylinder studs (12) and head screws (1, 2) with parts cleaning solution. 2. Scrape old oil and any carbon deposits from threads by using a back-and-forth motion, threading each head screw onto its mating cylinder stud. 3. Remove head screws from studs. Wipe or blow dry thread surfaces. 4. Apply oil to stud threads and to the underside of the head screw shoulder. If you need a manual,and you definitely need a manual,use the pdf type. |
Littlebuggles
| Posted on Monday, January 28, 2013 - 11:27 pm: |
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Yeah, I guess so buddy. Thanks for posting that. I should leave the "policing" for when I'm on the clock I guess. Arizona, I haven't rebuilt a Buell motor so I was going from my discussions with others, and reading here as well on that. There is a S1 manual in the KV that will cover a lot of basic mechanics on these bikes if you need it. Transmission was the same on all model years until the XB platform came in. |
1313
| Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2013 - 12:24 pm: |
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And here I replaced the headbolts everytime I've removed them from my S2. Oh well... Transmission was the same on all model years until the XB platform came in. Ummm... Whaddabout the 2nd gear change? 2000 Model Year, wassit? Not "policing" either, 1313 |
Davefl
| Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2013 - 01:23 pm: |
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None of my Buell's have "head bolts". They have studs and they along with the nuts can be reused.. The Motor mount bolts in the front head is a one time use item. |
Arizona_buell
| Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2013 - 02:21 pm: |
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O.K. Thanks for the input. I have a manual, just never saw to not re-use the "nuts" 8-) I am good now thanks.. |