| Author | Message | ||
     Firemanjim |
Sandblast,sporty filter is the same as is the long filter of off the FXR.My local auto parts house has several motorcycle specfic oils(Castrol,Torco,etc) try for one of these as newer car oil has different additive package.Or if all else fails,just put Mobil 1 in it til next change.Pretty much any clean oil is better than your old dirty stuff.(and,yes I am sitting here at work --bored.) | ||
| Sandblast |
Thanks. It is the longer of the two he showed me, the box says it also fits softail models and rubber mounted 5 speeds except the Dyna Glide, so it should be right. I usually run Mobil ! V-Twin, but dont want to spend so much for just 500 miles, so I'll get a motorcycle specific dino oil for now... Thanks very much for responding so quick... | ||
| Sparky |
Congrats on the new scooter. Did you trade the Blast? Save your receipts. The dealer may want proof that you did scheduled maintenances if he has to do any warranty work in the future. Your best bet though, if you have doubts, is to let the dealer do the 500 mile service even if the mileage runs over a bit. Won't hurt a thing. I did my 1000 mile service on the Firebolt at 1600 mi. BTW, the next scheduled maintenance on a Cyclone is 2500 mi. Also the trans oil needs changing at 500 miles too. But, the Custom Chrome filter is OK. As for oil, what kind does the chopper shop sell? What they sell for late model Sportsters should work in your Cyclone as long as it's 20W50 weight. Regarding break-in miles and freeways, ride in the slow lane and vary your speed. The thing to avoid is going a steady speed. What I used to do is accelerate and coast, like 50 to 70 mph all the way to work. | ||
| Sandblast |
Sparky- yeah, I had to trade in my Blast. I did not want to and I was trying to wait until it was paid for, but I just didn't make it  . I will take it in for the 1000 mile service and let them do the tranny oil and everything, I just want fresh oil until the 1,000 mile mark. I don't know how long this oil has been in the bike, it's a new 2001! They did not give me a manual, so I have been asking a lot of questions here. I really love this bike. Hopefully I'll be seeing you on another ride soon... I had a great time on the Killen Trail. Thanks for the info... Shawn. | ||
| Cu_chulann |
Is it essential to grease steering head and swingarm bearings,at first 10k miles.No play or other anomalies are evident. | ||
| Steveford |
Cu_chulann, Yes. There's not much grease in there from new. | ||
| Cu_chulann |
Thanks Steveford. Can you,or anybody explain what the A.S.V.reading is.I hear you need a scanalyser to call it up.It seems you can alter it to get best benefit when you fit a race E.C.U.. Perhaps also need to set butterfly at 5 degrees when T.P.S.. Actually reads 0.. Any advice on setting up race ECU. Powercommander3 and high performance 02. sensor would be gladly accepted. | ||
| Cu_chulann |
Thanks Steveford. Can you,or anybody explain what the A.S.V.reading is.I hear you need a scanalyser to call it up.It seems you can alter it to get best benefit when you fit a race E.C.U.. Perhaps also need to set butterfly at 5 degrees when T.P.S.. Actually reads 0.. Any advice on setting up race ECU. Powercommander3 and high performance 02. sensor would be gladly accepted. | ||
| Cu_chulann |
Deja Vu | ||
| Steveford |
Do you mean the Adaptive Fuel Value? If so, it adjusts the fuel mixture for altitude with it running 100% @ sea level, 85% @ 4000 ft, 65% @ 6000 ft, etc. It will also compensate for intake air leaks which can skew the readings. When you reset the TPS following an ECM change or during the initial PDI, you're supposed to set the AFV to 100% although it will change once the bike is out on the road. You can also play with the AFV on the Digitial Technician to check for intake air leaks. You can make the bike run progressively leaner until the machine stumbles. I can't recall the exact figure offhand but I think that you should be able to go to 60% before it begins to run funny. Any less than that and you've got an intake leak. Don't hold me to that figure as I'd have to look it up but you get the idea. I don't know beans about Power Commanders or high performance Lambda sensors but I do know the X1s pretty well. Where are you located? | ||
| Cu_chulann |
Steveford.Thanks again. Wicklow south of Dublin,Ireland.Probably less than 20 Buells in entire country.Knowledgable service backup not easy to find.I served apprenticeship as mechanic early 1970s,but never worked in trade Have basic mech knowledge.Even Harley technology takes me some time to grasp When I did trade starter motors were quite new on cars,definately not stock on bikes.Have 01 model X1. 13,725 mls.Wyleyco slip on,K'N filter..P.C.III. Buell race E.C.U.. High perf. lambda.27tooth front cog. Took a long time to get half well set up mainly due to self education.Even as is it can surprise most sports jockeys.Always glad of more info. in pursuit of perfect set up | ||
| Steveford |
Does this mean I shouldn't schedule you for 8AM on Monday? You'll have to go to a dealer for the injection calibration but if you have any questions, feel free to send me an e-mail (see profile). The X1 is a wonderful motorcycle but Buells aren't HarLees so you want to find someone who understands that your bike isn't a Sportster in drag. | ||
| Cu_chulann |
Steveford. I do not know how to access profiles.My wife describes me as a dinosaur regarding computers.Presume you do not live in Wicklow or anywhere near.As a Buelligan you would love our roads.I.O.M. TT. only a good stone throw off our coast.Terrain and roads very similar except our surfaces not as well maintained.Great,hard drive hard brake big lean action no radar within 20 mls.Have fitted E.B.C...HH front and back.Very good but forks pogo under squirly braking,maybe heavier springs needed.Have heard of kit to allow preload adjustment.Fitting Diablo hoops friday,looking forward to weekend.Anyway enough of that back to A.F.V.. Another mech tech I speak to on phone in Germany suggested: if I am not mistaken: set afv to 125 and butterfly 5 deg open when tps reads 0.Any views on this.Can get access to scanalyser through friendly dealer.Soon to aquire carbon snorkel with big K'N also after market tank cover Lots of cool stuff on German web sites. Anyway hope to hear from you soon.In mean time I will learn how to send e.mail.I will ask a 5 year old. B.F.N. | ||
| Blake |
Click on his username "Steveford" to bring up his profile. Try reading the "Getting Started" Instructions link on the main page. | ||
| Cu_chulann |
Is there any definitive knowledge as to,whether oil pump drive gear on 01 model year X1 is likely to fail circa 15,000 mls. Or has this problem been dealt with by upgrading components.If no upgrade has been carried out,is there an after market gear available to rectify this problem. | ||
| Funjimmy |
Interesting oil filter advise from my Buell/H-D dealer. I went in to purchase an oil filter, and the parts person asked if wanted the Super Premium filter (10 microns)or the regular one. Naturally I said that I wanted a black Super Premium filter, but they only had a chrome one in the Buell Shop. So this parts person calls over to the H-D Shop and requests a black super premium oil filter for a Sportster. What does the H-D rep bring over, a black regular oil filter, along with the comment that H-D only recommends the Super Premium filter to be used on Twin Cam H-D engines because the fine filter element is to restrictive for the Sportster/Buell oil pump, and the extra load could damage the pump. He went on to warn that the added resistance could blow oil hoses as well. Now I know that some unfortunate Buell owners have reported oil pump drive gear failures. And there have been conversations regarding the best oil pump to use in a Buell engine, but is there any link to this new Super Premium oil filter and oil related engine failures. Cheers FunJimmy | ||
| Reepicheep |
I posted pictures of a badly worn oil pump drive gear, and (at that point) it was only ever run with the black HD filters. So that may be an issue, but it is not the only problem. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Cu... just noticed your question... It's really easy to drop the oil pump and visually inspect the gear from beneath. A dental mirror makes it easier, but is not necessary if you don't mind crawling. 25 minute job without hurrying. Have some teflon tape and a new oil pump gasket before you start, and just check it at your next oil change. | ||
| Cu_chulann |
Thanks for response have oil pump gasket on order.Allready have gear,gearcase gasket header rings in stock so will check at next oil change. | ||
| Jrh |
Cu chulann Regarding an aftermarket oil pump drive gear,i asked the same question to one of the most knowledgable guys on these boards a couple weeks ago and apparently there is no such thing available here in the U.S.and most of these bikes don't have unusual wear on the gear but some do for unknown reasons and when they do,they can do major engine damage.So it seems like a good idea to at least pull the oil pump periodicly like Reep describes and try to look up in there at the gear.It sounds like maybe you've been checking out Borgforum.de in Germany,they've had quite a few posts lately regarding these gears breaking up.I'm using a site called babblefish to translate the German to Enlish,the words are translated litterally,so it's still a little hard to understand sometimes but it sounds like a company named LSL is developing a gear,also able to machine a threaded hole in the cam gear cover to insert a scope to check the gear easier. All the aftermarket links at borgforum have some amazing Buell stuff,especially RRC. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Cu... Just to make sure I am clear, dropping the pump to check the gear is easy, and will only add maybe 20 minutes and $2 to your next oil change, and will in fact make the oil change better (as it will drain more of the oil). Cheap insurance. But actually changing the gear? That is a BIIIG job. Fully doable, well within reach of the home mechanic, but it takes a lot of time and a lot of steps. Both rocker boxes have to come off. Plan a full day for it. You do NOT need to take apart the deutsch connector to pull the cam cover totally off the bike. Just bungee cord it to the frame out of the way and leave the wiring in place while you do the job. Now if you were going to have the rocker boxes off anyway, then it would not be much more work to replace the oil pump drive gear, so that is something for everyone to keep in mind. If somebody wants to make something for the aftermarket, they ought to make a softer gear on the oil pump side, so the drive gear no longer wears. Its easy to drop the pump, and probably easy to get that gear off. That gives you a wear item that is easier to replace, if one of the two gears is gonna be wearing anyway. | ||
| Cu_chulann |
Jrh,@Reepicheep. Thanks for comments.Food for thought.Jrh,spot on I have a lot of contact with some people in Germany.They are light years ahead of rest of Europe for Buell goodies.As you say L.S.L and R.R.C are two good ones.Check [www.hilbilly-motors.com]Their project bike page is an eye opener.One of these guys told me he checked the clearance of oil pump gear on it's shaft[15thou.should be about 3thou. So when you torque the nut it drops about 10.or 12thou.Therefore it must be off centre.Good idea about the spy hole. Reep. Thanks I realise that it is quite a job.I had to replace rear rocker box gasket last year.Front one blew couple of thou. miles ago.Was able to stem the leak from outside with Loctite 598 black gasket silicon/ flange sealant.Just smear a liberal amount on the joint where leak is evident,after cleaning off oil.Has held up 3,000 mls so far.I am not a lazy S.O.B..Just waiting till I have to do the oil pump gear.Great idea about soft pump gear,you should tell somebody at Buell.They could put it down in routine maintenance schedule,it would save them big bucks on warranty work world wide. As always good to hear from like minded carbon based bipeds. B.F.N. Rich. | ||
| Buelliedan |
Not really a lube question but a question in regards to the oil tank on a 98 S1. Seems I have a leak developing on the grommet on the bottom of the oil tank where it bolts to the frame just in front of the rear wheel right by the sidestand switch. Looks like some kind of expnasion plug. When I try to tighten it up it just starts pulling farther out and I'm worried it will come out completely. Anybody dealt with this issue before? HELP!!! | ||
| Bomber |
Dan . . . if you're oil tank is like mine on my Y2K M2, the bolt is actually going into a wellnut (rubber thingie that expands as the bolt tightens . . . . . the grommet is the flange on the wellnut) . . . .. likely the leak is coming from elsewhere, like the oil supply/drain fitting junction? | ||
| Lee |
Hey fellers, Anyone have one of those billet, slip-on heat sink type oil coolers for your Buell (costs about $30)? Like this...http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2462416412&categor y=34284 And are they worth a damn? Thanks, Lee | ||
| Stringbean |
Question about coasting down hills with the engine off. I'll keep this short. I've got a 2000 Cyclone. Is it OK to coast the bike down long hills with the engine shut off and the bike in neutral? Granted I'll go through brake pads faster, but will this hurt anything, with the oil pump not turning? Thanks! -SB (Tim) | ||
| Tim |
Why would you want to? Very unsafe practice in my opinion. | ||
| Stringbean |
Coasting's very popular around here... I'm not talking about straight, steep cliffs, but rather lonely back-roads (goat trails) with no traffic and only a few bicycles on them. I'm also not talking about high speeds either. Though some guys I know coast faster than most ride with the engine running, I do not. I like the way my Buell's compression slows me down when I need it. It's very peaceful really. Everything's really quiet (slow, but quiet) and you really get to enjoy the country out there. Let's just be clear.. I'm NOT talking about coasting down the freeway at 90 mph. I'm talking speeds somewhat less than the bicycles around me. Anyway............ Any ideas? | ||
| Firemanjim |
String,if the engine is not running no need for oil pump.The only parts working are your wheel bearings,and they are sealed. | ||
| Stringbean |
Thanks! I just wondered if there was something at the front-end of the belt (final drive), that needed lube. -SB |
