Author |
Message |
Chorizo
| Posted on Saturday, November 10, 2012 - 11:16 am: |
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Im about ready to rotate the engine as Im perplexed at how to get my paws in there. Seems I cant get to the hex nut side of the intake. The allens on the right side i can loosen. But then what? Ooh its tight. I can see skin in the game. In a weird way Im enjoying this but I have other mundane chores to do. Please, ideas would be appreciated. Thanks |
Electraglider_1997
| Posted on Saturday, November 10, 2012 - 11:38 am: |
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Usually if bolts are really tight then that mean they have been loctited in. Torch them to melt the loctite and they will break free. If this is shiite advice then please chime in because it won't hurt my feelings. |
Mikef5000
| Posted on Saturday, November 10, 2012 - 12:00 pm: |
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Torching a bolt buried within the engine holding on a rubber gasket probably isn't the best idea.... well, unless you've got a pensil-torch or something that can get in there and focus the heat:
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Chorizo
| Posted on Saturday, November 10, 2012 - 12:24 pm: |
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I have not got to the hex bolts yet. Just looking and trying to get a wrench on them looks like i need to rotate. Just how do you get in there and fit a wrench... and what kind of wrench? |
Tootal
| Posted on Saturday, November 10, 2012 - 12:30 pm: |
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You shouldn't have to rotate the engine for the intake. I did mine 5 times one Summer trying to get it to seal. I really don't like the type of screws they use. Once I got mine out I replaced them with some 12 point screws off an old Harley. These work great but that doesn't help you right now. I used a short combination wrench turned upside down on the box end and was able to get them ok. If they are still too tight take another box end and hook it on the open end of the combination wrench to get some more torque. Buell likes their red loctite which on a 1/4" screw is too much. |
Xbimmer
| Posted on Saturday, November 10, 2012 - 02:29 pm: |
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Cut off stubby is good for spinning them off/on. |
Chorizo
| Posted on Saturday, November 10, 2012 - 11:05 pm: |
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Well I removed the throttle body. Fuuun. Thanks for the pointers. I now have custom made tools. I got seals from Al at American Sport Bike part number"17018-2 95-98 Intake Manifold Seal" The website says it'll fit '95-'09 Uly. Im only asking because Im seeing 95-98 on the bag and they look different than the ones on my bike. I only WANT to do this once and install the correct part. Also I see guys are using Sil-Glide. Would any other grease work for this application. If not Ill hold off till I can get down to Napa. If your out there Al can you ease my mind? Thanks again guys |
Bikelit
| Posted on Saturday, November 10, 2012 - 11:35 pm: |
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It's been the same seal for the last 25 years or so........... |
Odd
| Posted on Sunday, November 11, 2012 - 08:14 am: |
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same seal,the factory never used loctite on the intake bolts |
Tootal
| Posted on Sunday, November 11, 2012 - 10:25 am: |
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I use Dow Corning 111. I have used Hylomar and it works. The dealer used WD-40. I think the main thing is that all the surfaces of the seal need to be able to slide under pressure as you tighten the flanges. I even put a little lube on the tapered part of the flange since as you tighten it's squeezing the seal around your intake and if it's not an even slide it can distort the seal and cause a leak. |
Chorizo
| Posted on Monday, November 12, 2012 - 02:00 pm: |
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Al emailed me. Correct seal. Almost wish I would have rotated the motor after all. |
Etennuly
| Posted on Monday, November 12, 2012 - 02:02 pm: |
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I found the best way to unbolt the intake is go to your son's house, borrow his wrenches, cut off the one you need to cut and make no apologies.....tell him he needed that 'special' tool. |
Firemanjim
| Posted on Monday, November 12, 2012 - 03:42 pm: |
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How did you get the torx screw securing intake to engine mount? Rotating makes it all easier. |
Bikelit
| Posted on Monday, November 12, 2012 - 05:59 pm: |
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Go underneath with a 1/4" drive torx attached to a swivel and a long extension. Electrical tape around the swivel keeps it from flopping around. Tape on the bolt/torx keeps it on long enough to re-start it. I can R&R mine in a couple hours. |
Chorizo
| Posted on Monday, November 12, 2012 - 06:57 pm: |
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I used a 1/4 torx bit socket attached to hex bit like the ones used in a 18v impact driver. Then used a cool little 1/4 ratchet wrench to turn. Right, cool but what a pain. Next time Ill get a longer torx bit and cut it to correct length. Im rotating next time. I just didn't have the stand to hold my bike. I was gonna tie it to the ceiling joist but was determined to not rotate as many say its much more time consuming procedure. The torx screw securing intake to engine mount took maybe a solid hour of trial and error.and deep breathing. One trick I discovered was to use a lever to push on the screw when starting the threads. After all of that I thought maybe I had it crossed threaded but no. The allens holding the throttle body are an adventure too. Besides your 3/4 of the way there so might as well rotate. Chant with me now..Rotate dunt dunt Rotate.. |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Monday, November 12, 2012 - 10:02 pm: |
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Use Silglyde on the intake seals. They last longer and are easier to get aligned. One tube will last a VERY long time. Good stuff. |
Chorizo
| Posted on Monday, November 12, 2012 - 11:09 pm: |
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I used Silglyde as suggested. Easiest part of the procedure. Huge tube but has lots of uses. Thanks again for all the input . I don't know if I could own a Buell if it wasn't for this website. |
Firemanjim
| Posted on Tuesday, November 13, 2012 - 12:46 am: |
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Bikelit, I can rotate an engine in about 30 min. |
Bikelit
| Posted on Tuesday, November 13, 2012 - 08:30 am: |
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Firemanjim - Yes, but how long to change seals start to finish? Either way it's pretty easy. |