| Author | Message | ||
     Bikerrides |
I bought a NOS set of PM wheels (2001) for my S3 and the mechanic who is mounting them has broken 3 sockets trying to get the rotor carrier bolts out of the new wheels, front and rear. These wheels have never been mounted and have the factory bolts in them. Mechanic is afraid to heat them, since the wheels are aluminum. Did they come from the factory w/loctite on the bolts? What color? How do we get them out? | ||
| Ratbuell |
They should have shipped bare, no bolts. If there are bolts in them, they probably have loctite. Use heat. Loctite will give long before you damage forged aluminum. | ||
| Bikerrides |
Rat, After doing a search for related posts, I read where someone used an 18v impact drill, reverse of course, and heat. Should the heat only be applied to the head of the bolt? Thanks for the quick reply. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
on my xb wheels the mechanic hit once with a hammer then put the socket and removed it fine i think the impact of the hammer may have loosen a bit the loctite as loctite is rigid the impact may have cracked the loctite | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
+1 on hammer method. Get yourself a brass drift and smack the heads of the bolts then apply your socket wrench. The heat method works, I'm sure it just takes longer. | ||
| Onahog |
Iv always used a snap on socket, heat the head with a propane torch..put allen socket in, give it a smack and then impact it..Works 9 outa 10 times...Hb | ||
| Kc_zombie |
Why does he need to take the rotors off? | ||
| Hootowl |
Hammer and punch. I resorted to drilling the heads off on a couple of them and found that the threads weren't the problem, the head of the screw was stuck to the carrier. As soon as it came off, I was able to back the threaded portion of the bolt out easily. I guess the head coming off took some tension off the threads. Since you said allen head, I'm assuming it's a pre-2000 wheel, and has the same kind of screws. The new carrier uses flat head machine screws. Echoing KC's question...why is there a rotor carrier on a NOS wheel? | ||
| Ratbuell |
If I read the original post correctly, the wheels are bare...but with bolts in them. Necessitating removal in order to install a brake. As I said...AFAIK, all wheels ship from the supplier (whoever it may be - PM, Castalloy, Marchesini) with NO bolts installed. Makes me think maybe the wheels aren't actually NOS, but BUOS (Barely Used Old Stock)... | ||
| Tbolt98 |
Hand impact tool (i believe that's what it is called) Craftsman makes them.. you put the correct bit in it and hit it with a hammer! Worked great on mine when all else failed!! | ||
| Tbolt98 |
This one (i'm sure there are other brands as well)... http://m.sears.com/productdetails.do?partNumber=00 947641000P&sid=&psid= | ||
| Rick_a |
PM's use a set of tapered allen screws to bolt hub adapters which the brake rotors and sprocket then bolt to. I don't see any reason to remove those. For the rotor and sprocket fasteners the methods above should work. Shock them with a punch, heat them if that doesn't work, use an impact when all else fails, and cut the heads off as a last resort. | ||
| Bikerrides |
Thanks for all the help guys, but I wasn't able to pull up BWB for about a week as this all got sorted out. Turns out, I misunderstood the mechanic as to which wheels. They were the old ones that had the bolts stuck; the new ones didn't have bolts in them. I thought that seemed odd, as I hadn't remembered seeing bolts in the new wheels when I got them. My installer ended up welding nuts to the bolts to get them out, which was suggested by several and I found threads to that effect before BWB went down. Hope any of you guys in the North East can recover quickly and this next storm isn't too brutal. If you haven't already voted, go vote! | ||
| Jolly |
Craftsman hammer strike driver tool. I broke three bits till I used a tool buried in my tool set. Its about a 1/8th to 1/4 turn driver set. strike it with a hammer, the force of the hammer sets it good and then it does the slight turn as its driven down. I bought it from sears and it has saved me many swear words and machine shop work. works every time, just cant figure out why I forget about it till the ah ha moment. patience, no power tools, a good anti seize spray...It took three trips to sears last time I did this, then the ahha oh yeah moment....no more broken bits and 20 minutes later all were out. darn near guaranteed. if you need a photo of the tool let me know...but here is some on line data. Craftsman Impact Driver SearsItem# 00947641000 | Model# 47641 http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-009 47641000P?sLevel=0&redirectType=SKIP_LEVEL | ||
| Buell_bert |
OK been there and done that. Take a small hand held grinding tool (or maybe a hack saw) and CAREFULLY cut a notch in the bolt head. Then either use a hammer driver or as I did grab a BFH (Big F?? Hammer) and a chisel and rotate/hammer the problem bolts CCW out. It really worked for me. |
