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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Stator/Voltage Regulator/Charging System subforum » Archive through January 29, 2013 » Wiring-temperture in Celcius or Fahrenheit ?? « Previous Next »

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Luigi
Posted on Thursday, October 25, 2012 - 01:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

According to some experts in temperature-failing it appears to them that the wiring can NOT be in Celcius ... it should be in Fahrenheit !!!

Example ...

200 Fahrenheit = 93,3 Celcius
240 Fahrenheit = 115,5 Celcius

The stator is cooled by the running-oil ... the temperature in normal conditions is around 85 to 92 Celcius ... when you consider that the normal wiring is done with 93,3 Celcius - you can imagine that in hotter conditions these wires are melting !!!

Can anybody give me another good explain if you have !!!
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Kevmean
Posted on Thursday, October 25, 2012 - 01:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't forget that on top of the engine temp it is the electrically generated temperature that is causing the failures, remember that the stator is running at full output (engine revs dependent)at all times regardless of electrical load due to the shunt regulation.
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Luigi
Posted on Friday, October 26, 2012 - 04:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

okay folks ... my story is wrong ... it is all explained by Ricks and the temperature is in Celsius ... the steel of the rotor is hotter then the running-oil ... the only thing is that the cooling of the stator is not enough.
Therefor a bigger hole is drilled in the rotor to flow more oil to the stator ... on this moment only EBR is doing this work as far as I know.
http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/catalog/product/gallery/id/202/image/319/

Does anyone know another person/company who will/can do this ??


(Message edited by luigi on October 26, 2012)
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Kevmean
Posted on Friday, October 26, 2012 - 05:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It is not a bigger hole that is drilled in the rotor ...it is the fact there was NO hole in the original rotor ........ the modified EBR rotor has an oil drilling in it to spray cool the stator with oil as the engine rotates. It is the core of the stator that needs cooling to keep the temp below the failure temp of the wire insulation.
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Kevmean
Posted on Friday, October 26, 2012 - 05:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have had mine drilled in the UK at a cost of £150 for the drilling.
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Luigi
Posted on Saturday, October 27, 2012 - 07:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Kevmean ... which company has done the drilling ... it seems to be a special work to do because the material of the rotor !?!

I suppose that you didn't do anything else with the rotor, because EBR writes that there is some more to renew on the rotor.
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Kevmean
Posted on Sunday, October 28, 2012 - 02:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PM sent Luigi ; ) the only other things to renew is the rotor nut and possibly stator cover gasket.
I had my new spare stator fitted as the existing was working but very burnt looking.
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