| Author | Message | ||
     Spacecapsule1 |
....in my attempt to trouble shoot my idling problem, i swapped the stock ecm back in and found that the front cylinder wasn't firing. but man it was finally running smooth. go figure. I put the ebr ecm back in and had the normal cough-sputter-rev high and low-repeat idling events, but both cylinders firing. put the stock ecm back in again, both cylinders firing, idling about 1100 rpm, nice and steady. anyone have an idea where to start? | ||
| Sifo |
Coils can be funky like that. If the manual has specs on the resistance I would check that out, hot and cold. My wife's Street Triple had a bad coil that went on for over 20K miles being little more than and occasional inconvenience. Eventually it got bad enough to actually diagnose. It sounds like there is still another issue with the tune on the non-stock ECM though. Or there could be an issue with the wiring at or near the connector block for the ECM. | ||
| Greg_e |
Make sure the connectors on the EMC are clean, might also have a broken solder joint on the ECM which is something that is not easily fixed. It also could have been fouled plug which got cleared with the ebr ecm. I would spend time with it running and wiggle wires at the ECM connection. | ||
| Spacecapsule1 |
I was beginning to think it was a bad ecm, which is why I swapped the original back. I'll do the wiggle test again though. This only happens until its fully warm. Once warm it idles normally, but it do get on occasional cough when trying to move from a stand still.. When i get home I'm going to try the wiggle test again, then pull the plugs and check the coil.... thanks for the tips fellas... | ||
| Greg_e |
Might have a lot too much fuel in the cold idle adjustment which is fouling the plugs. | ||
| Spacecapsule1 |
OK here's what I found with the coil hot: Primary: .8 Secondary: 6.68K Coil Cold: Primary: .8 Secondary: 6.08l Looks within specs to me. Front plug tip is white. Hard to tell between "normal" and "ash deposits" examples of spark plug tips. Rear plug looks like the "ash deposit" example as well... Wiggle test turned up negative. (Message edited by spacecapsule1 on September 21, 2012) (Message edited by spacecapsule1 on September 22, 2012) | ||
| Hemicbx |
I just had a similar issue after having the bike all apart. Got it all back together and only 1 cyl was firing. Pulled the coil, checked it w/ a meter and all was in spec. Swapped wires, same deal. Unplugged & re-plugged the ECM and it was fixed! I'm nervous now, but like Greg_e said above, it could just be a bad ECM connection. | ||
| Spacecapsule1 |
I guess thats all it was. I plugged the stock ecm back in and didn't have any issues. my idle problem is gone with the stock ecm, but returns with the ebr ecm. | ||
| Spacecapsule1 |
dang it.... did it again today. swapped ecms, front cylinder not firing again. swapped ebr back into the bike, front firing intermittently it seems until warm. tested the coil, specs above, and replaced the plugs. you guys think its an injector issue? how can i check? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Well the front and rear injectors are the same part, right? How hard is it to swap them and see if the issue follows? | ||
| Spacecapsule1 |
good idea. i'll try it and post back, but it took exactly one week for the non-firing cylinder to show itself once again... | ||
| Limelight |
I know its been said before but when they mean the pins are clean on the ECM, they mean CLEAN! Had a problem with my xb12s going into a spark skip and then just shutting down every so often. ECM Spy Diags pointed to temp sensor shorting out. Cleaned every electrical connection on bike and greased them. Check your connection between ground on the frame and the battery. Mine was loosing almost 10 volts. Clean the ecm/ecu connectors with a fine sandpaper. Once I did that bike has run perfectly for over 12,000 miles in all conditions. | ||
| Spacecapsule1 |
I was out of town all last week so haven't swapped the injectors, but does anyone know if I can remove them without removing the throttle body? | ||
| Greg_e |
Maybe. You would probably need an right angle torx wrench, but I think it is the same size as the screws on the plastic so you should have one. You might have better luck pulling the throttle body off as the bolts are a little more accessible. | ||
| Spacecapsule1 |
well in the meantime i disabled closed loop idle. now it idles correctly during warmup. |
