| Author | Message | ||
     Jackelfox |
I swear i've read a ton of these threads, many wander into super techno-babble to those of us who aren't electrical engineers (not that i mind i just don't claim to understand it) Sooo the point. I stator works fine each day until the temp measurement (you know the one on the voltage screen we all have to ride showing) rises to about 190-200 degrees. Is this abnormally high? Other than the rotor mod (on my list) anything that should keep this lower if it is abnormally high? As it stands now its always i worry through each red light (as voltage drops) and then race it up to 5000 to charge before having to stop again hopefully gaining some on each transaction. Until it gets hot, then its a race to get home before it get stranded. Clearly things work... but not as they should. Advice? | ||
| Stealthbobber |
This happens to me as well and honestly I'm pretty sure it's just the way it is. When I'm running hot through traffic my voltage takes mega drops (around 190-200 degrees as well) But if I go for a ride out in the country on a 70 degree day and I don't have to sit through anything it charges like a dream. When the coolant is like 170 degrees its super happy. I suppose that's just the way it is with our unperfected street legal race bikes. | ||
| Jackelfox |
Stealth do you have the rotor upgrade, harness or anything else? It hasn't stranded me yet but i have no confidence taking it very far from home... | ||
| Stealthbobber |
Nope I'm running a totally stock setup with the "fix" that harley put in. My bike only has about 1200 miles on it so I shouldn't have any stator damage yet. Today I got some good testing in to and from work. On the way to work it was like 70 out and super light traffic so the bike was running about 170 on the coolant temp the whole way and charging in the upper 13s-14. On the way home it was about 75 out and I got stuck in traffic for a bit and then it was like 40mph on the freeway for about 15 min and the voltage dropped to the upper 12s. I decided to ride past home out into the country and in the wooded areas the ambient air temp dropped like 5 degrees and my voltage went back up to like 13.5-14. It seems like just a few degrees outside and higher speed makes a huge difference in charging output. I don't use the 1125 to commute or go for city rides at all. It's pretty much relegated to highway and country riding, and I've stayed off of it most of the summer. Electrical things hate heat and I think this is just the nature of the beast | ||
| Sparky |
If you've noticed that the battery voltage stays fairly high after starting up and riding for a while, then starts dropping when the engine gets hot, you have to understand that there are two fans on the radiators. Each fan comes on at different temperatures, approx 174 for one and 196 or 198 for the other, I think. These fans consume a lot of the available charging current when the coolant temp gets up around 196 and you're riding in stop and go traffic. As long as the voltage comes up to over 13 VDC while on the open road, your charging system should be good. One thing to check though is if the voltage stops charging at a high rate upon startup and the engine is relatively cold, that's an indication that the Upgrade Harness Relay is likely burned out and is keeping the charging system running in single-phase mode rather than fully three-phase, thus gradually undercharging at all times. Best thing to do is carry a spare relay and put it in when this happens. | ||
| Puddlepirate |
Not to make you paranoid Stealthbobber, but there have been several here who had stator failure at about 1000 miles. I just did the EBR oiling rotor install on my bike, and with roughly 1000 miles on a warranty replacement stator I already have cracked insulation and some darkening. Low miles unfortunately doesn't guarantee a good stator. On the other hand, having high coolant temps doesn't mean you have a bad stator. I dropped a bit of water wetter into my coolant, so we will see how that helps if any. Going from memory, the CT sensor only goes to about 225. In rush hour traffic when I was living in Charleston on a 100+degree, 100% humidity day, I had the sensor max out and then the overflow starting peeing out. Only seen that happen once. Other have said that their bike ran cooler after installing the EBR ECM since it sends more fuel into the cylinder to correct the factory lean condition. I will be getting that at or before Christmas with the hope that it also helps. (Message edited by puddlepirate on September 13, 2012) | ||
| Stealthbobber |
Lol the hottest temp my bike has seen was 90 degrees during the drought we had here in Indiana earlier this summer. After that came my loose stator nut fiasco and getting the bike registered so I haven't had the chance to put a whole lot of riding time on the bike. Since then everything has been when it's nicer out and that's the only time I'm gonna be riding it from now on. Nice cool weather way out in the country. As it is I'm going in the Marines soon so I'm gonna focus on paying the bike off and saving for the oiling rotor and tools to change it while I'm in. This whole stator thing sucks when you're 20 and you work part time. |
