| Author | Message | ||
     Buellbill |
If its been covered before please Forgive me. I've just picked up a new VR (part # Y1302.02A8), for my 2006 Uly XB12X. I notice the connector 77 is different. The instructions explain how to change it over BUT no reason for the change. Does anyone know why they changed the connector 77? Is it the reason why the VR failed in the first place. Cheers, | ||
| Rays |
Bill, if you do a 'Search of Badweb above and use the keywords '77 Connector' you will spend the rest of the week reading the posts.  The original Packard Connector is actually rated at a higher current than the replacement Deutsch connector but it seems to be easily deformed (the female socket side) when plugging in the restricted space. Once there is a loose/poor connection there and arcing / carbon residue forms then it can go seriously downhill given the current that can be produced by the VR. There are all sorts of work-arounds with direct wiring and bypassing the connector altogether. This is probably going to result in the most reliable connection and given you are way beyond warranty might be an option. The Deutsch pins / sockets require a specialised (and expensive) crimper to crimp them as per the factory but again there are people who have fitted them using pliers and seem to have survived. Having worked on this sort of kit for a long time I wouldn't recommend that but I'm sure there are plenty of points of view that differ from mine. So, did it cause the VR to fail? Possibly, as an arcing connection on a box full of electronics is pretty unpredictable in what it can cause. If your existing 77 connector isn't overheated to the point of being visibly damaged are you sure the connector doesn't have a more subtle fault with a poor connection? There have been dozens of cases of that and in my particular situation that issue left me stranded on my '06 at about 9,000 miles. I cleaned the connector and tightened the connection and it is still going with another 53,000 miles on it. Others have had the poor connection completely melt the 77 connector housing. Assuming you have a definite bad VR (the stator is also a relatively common failure) then when you go to change the connector on the loom side there isn't a lot of wire to play with. MY 77 connector guide that has done the rounds a few times explains how to remove the sockets so you can cut the wire off with maximum length. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1PHtueqN_lT3Ftk VRAdt0Ss1NloiK-8XBK824hhT31vI/edit?pli=1 Just remember to take note of which wire goes where as the VR side isn't very friendly with two black wires. There are tiny markings on the old and new plus (1&2 / A&B ) that are mentioned in the instruction that come with the new plug (from memory). If you get into trouble, the negative side of the VR is connected directly to the case internally so is easy enough to determine with a multimeter. The last point of caution is that the positive wire is connected directly to the battery via a fuse so you should disconnect the battery to avoid and slip-ups with the bare wire. | ||
| Buellbill |
Hi Ray, Thanks so much for the great information. This is exactly what I needed to know. I've found a friendly auto electrician who has just the right crimping tool to change over the connector. I will also check the stator to confirm correct functioning as per the workshop manual. I'll let you know how I go. Cheers, Bill | ||
| Buellbill |
Hi Rays, I had the revised connector 77 fitted to the engine side. Fitted the new VR. Unfortunately no difference. The voltage across the battery terminals at 3000 rpm is 12.26 volts. With a new DEKA EXT14 battery and now a new VR. I guess it points to the stator. In reading older threads, there's a comment about the gear oil attacking the stator. Was this ever proved? I use MOTUL HD 80w90 gear oil. It's API GL5 certified. | ||
| Rays |
Bill, the stator is straight-forward to check. It has the other large Deutsch connector (3 wires) located close to the '77 connector - it is the 46 connector in the cct diagrams. This is the AC output from the stator and if you disconnect this do a resistance check phase to phase on the stator - pin 1 to 2, 2 to and 3 to 1. This should be very low - in the range 0.1 ohm to 0.3 ohm. You also need to do a resistance check to ground from each phase - this should be infinite (ie perfectly insulated). If you have any resistance evident here you have a definite stator issue. If those checks pass then the voltage test should be OK - with the engine running and the 46 plug disconnected measure the AC volts across each phase - the manual has 32-40 VAC at 2000rpm (~16-20 volts / 1000rpm). I can't speak to adverse effects of different types of oil on the stator - I have stuck with the standard old Formula+ myself. I'm north of 60,000miles on that and don't see any reason not to run it. | ||
| Luftkoph |
I've been going thru ongoing charging probs with my 06,I was certain my 2nd vr was bad,signal dynamics headsup voltage monitor was all over the place overcharging undercharging,bouncing all over,stator checked out,so I put a cycle electrics vr on it,same results,sent it back and they said it was faulty,and will build me a new one with longer wires for my configuration really nice folks. This got me thinking my 2nd stock vr went real wacky after the engine was warm,same for the cycle electrics vr.So I pulled the primary off to get to the stator to see what it looks like,well it looks ok no burns, no smells,but I think that is the culprit,so I'm putting in a cycle electrics stator,vr,and a new HD battery,and we will see if that takes care of it. | ||
| Luftkoph |
Well the new stator and v/r did the trick |
